Dr. Spa

You have 120v going to one terminal of the heater. When you test the OTHER terminal, electricity is traveling THROUGH the heater from the hot leg, and you're getting a reading at the other, dead terminal.

Dec 31, 1979, the Consumer Products Safety Commission (CSPC) released advisory #79-071, which warned of heat strokes caused by 106 °F water. This advisory recommended 104°F as the maximum temperature for a spa. Underwriters Laboratory (UL) adopted this advisory and lists it in their controlling document for home spas, #UL 1563 (Electric Spas, Equipment Assemblies, and Associated Equipment)

Flat covers haven't been common for over 20 years! Double wrapping is the best bang for the buck in terms of upgrades. All covers have metal C channel reinforcement...even the old flat covers....if by chance you find something that doesn't, consider it an absolute piece of cr@p...also, steel is far stronger than aluminum. Be sure the thickness advertised is the actual thickness of the foam...not the entire cover (including wrapping and vinyl). Be sure the density of the foam is the true, not a "nominal" number (some people will call a 1.25 density 1.5) Compare the UV and pigment rating of the vinyl, as well as weight (higher weigh = thicker vinyl) Look at the thickness of the polywrap, as well as how it's sealed (taped or hand sealed is significantly inferior to mechanical sealing)

"but with heat rising isn't the cover one of the largest sources of loss " This is probably one of, if not THE, biggest misconception in the world of physics. "Heat", in itself, does not rise! HEATED fluids, gasses and liquids, will rise (this is called convection). Once these heated fluids hit a solid surface, "convection" stops, and the transfer of heat then occurs by CONDUCTION. Heat will CONDUCT upwards, sideways, AND downwards at almost an equal pace.

https://encrypted-tbn2.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQ_tL3cJSTwdg6Es9b136sd_8h8l8IdSZKSsjMEcBZgiGCa5Bjiog

press buttons in this order; lock button, up arrow, clock button, down arrow

NO! You are only providing THIRTY amps. You don't double the number of the breaker when you use two breakers to supply 240v. It's only THIRTY amps your providing to the spa! [br] Remember, you're providing power from two 120v "legs" of power.....and you're only providing 30a from each leg, NOT 60a

edited

It doesn't meet code which make it illegal and dangerous (because when one breaker trips, the other doesn't and there's still power going to the spa. Circuit breakers come as full size, and half size (wafer breakers). The image above shows the different configurations. The top left breaker is a full size 120v breaker. On the right in the middle are some 120v wafer breakers. The bottom left breaker is a 240 volt breaker (notice how the two handles are tied together) . 240v breakers rarely come in wafer size, and when they do, it can be tricky to place them correctly so they supply 240v (you experienced this originally when you had to move a breaker to get your 240v). In the US, home are supplied with two hot legs of 120v electricity. The electricity is alternating current. Imagine the wires running horizontally, and the current alternating from left to right. When the current is moving to the left in one of these hot legs, it's moving to the right in the other. As it alternates, it then move to the right in one, and the left in the other. In order to get 240v, you have to pull power from each of these legs. Think of it like a "two man tree saw".

You're getting THIRTY amps. A double pole breaker is basically two single breakers built into one. As an FYI, while what you're doing will work, it's against code and a bit dangerous (with a double pole breaker, if it trips "both breakers" turn off. In your situation, only one will trip and you'll still have one leg of live power going to the spa).

Doing so would do little, if any thing, in the way of increasing safety, and GREATLY add to nuisance tripping

Not worth responding. The OP left a link, that I removed, and I believe the post was simply a way for them to leave the link to possibly better their search engine rankings......i.e. SPAM

The vacuum sealing is to help prevent the cover from ballooning, but only works to a point. A little blown out of proportion, but... imagine taking a solid plastic pellet the size of a BB, and expanding it to the size of a marble, filling it with air. Take a bazillion of these "marbles" and compress them together into a sheet of foam. This is basically how the foam cores are made (REALLY basic description, there's a bit more to it). Wrap plastic around it, quickly vacuum out any air, and seal up the plastic. Ok, so there's a WHOLE lot of air still inside. In between the "marbles" that were compressed together, and inside the "marbles" themselves. Anything that might change the volume of that air, such as rising temperature or increasing elevation, will expand the air, increase it's volume, and make it look like the cover is inflated. Gorilla Duct tape? No clue. Never tried it. It's VERY difficult to get ANY tape to seal over any amount of time. Between the temperature and humidity, most adhesives break down rather quickly. The best thing, I've always been told, was PVC tape. Basically electrical tape, and they do make it 2" wide. I'd be curious to try Tyvek tape. It's some of the stickiest stuff, initially, I've come across.

In order to capture the heat off the pump there's a "wrap" around the motor that waters' pumped through. NOT from heat collected at the impeller.

What does "I taped the wires" mean? Brand of spa? Model?

*yawn*.....................yaknow

craigslist

Provide good info? Simply noting and posting what you may read, is good info?

Master Spas is a top of the line manufacturer??? And you "do it right"?

It's not a "bag", but polyethylene sheeting that's vacuumed and heat sealed around the foam cores. It prevents the foam cores from absorbing moisture.

Just seems to me, if you blew out 3 ozonators in a week, there's something else going on. If you don't pull air through the ozonator, the ozone levels inside the ozonator build up to extremely high concentrations, and can start to degrade any plastics inside (like wire insulation)

I'd check for water getting into the ozonator.

" I have written to them directly to give them the opportunity to make things right. They have my name and phone number." I think there's more than just a website name ;-) One of the lights doesn't work.... and it's a lemon? This would be like an interior light in your car not working, and calling the car a lemon. (have you considered that maybe something simply came lose during transport?)

Just for a bit of info. I read you post of a few years ago; " They were not waterlogged and it was somewhat impossible as they are Styrofoam." Styrofoam is actually a brand name for expanded polystyrene (EPS) ...which it what it is. EPS is made by taking very small "beads" of foam and compressing them together. While the "beads" themselves wont absorb water, water CAN AND WILL penetrate between the beads, water logging the cover. THIS is the reason for the vapor barrier.

Did they say 100 % sealed, WITHOUT any drain holes (seems to me you'd REALLY want some kind of drain mechanism to prevent water build-up simply from condensation). Maybe the tech was simply repeating misinformation that he was taught, or led to believe.