Mikey_in_NY

What is the difference between your 24 hour circulation pump and filter cycles? Does't the filter run whenever the circulation pump is on? You're right to ask that question, guess I should have chosen my words better! Yes, the circ pump does filter continuously in conjunction with the ozonator and heater. When I said 'filter cycles' I was referring to running the 2 main 2.5HP jet pumps for programmable periods. These pumps operate completely independant from the circ pump. The choices are: 5 mins every 12 hours (basically just to flush out the lines) 30 mins every 8 hours (what I'm currently using) 30 mins every 6 hours 30 mins every 4 hours

As far as I'm aware MPS works best when used in conjunction with a Nature2 cartridge. Is this something you're doing, or are you just using MPS on it's own?

Just for everyones information I've been using the Dichlor then beach method for around 6 months now (first and only water change was mid December). Anyway, I've just returned from 10 days vacation and was worried what might happen to my water balance during this period, so I was very relieved to find the water was crystal clear with no smell, although FC and CC were down to 0.0 and 0.5 respectively, TA was 60, PH 7.4. Needless to say I've now added some chlorox to get the chlorine numbers back to where they need to be. The day I left for vacation I added 16oz chlorox and 3 TBSP of MPS, and turned temp down to 90F. Tub is 540 gallon with 24 hour circ pump and CD discharge ozonator, and Sunpurity (Nature 2) cartridge. I run two 30 minute filter cycles per day. I'm not saying this will work for everyone, but it sure worked for me for a full 10 days.

See the following from a previous post... Using my own 530 gallon tub as a basis it will take about 11 hours to get from 10c to 39c with a 5.5KW heater. 5.5KW x 11 hours = 60.5kwh 60.5kwh x $0.145 = $8.77 This is by no means scientific data, and the $ amount may not be relevant using your prices, however the figure of 60.5 kwh should be +/- maybe 15% depending upon your tub water volume and starting temperature.

You need to consider that a skirt between the tub and the concrete will make a great home for critters. The only other thing I can think of is drainage - make sure you don't trap water around the tub. Out of curiosity why do you want to sink your tub into concrete? How far do you intend sinking it?

I don't care what the color is if it comes with that young lady!

If your local weather allows, just use a hosepipe with a strong nozzle to blast out your filters. I've tried the dishwasher route and yes, they do come out looking clean, but on closer inspection there's still muck deep down in the filter which a hose is better at removing IMO.

I've had a similar issue with my LED's getting out of sequence on my Sundance so, no, these issues are probably not related.

I shock with Leisure Time (Renew) MPS only once per week, and usually notice a drop in PH of around 0.1 After every use (most days) I just add Chlorox.

Dealers should include a years supply of beers and cigars with any new tub.

Like CMACD says, take a look at the Hartford and Hawthorne - these are both large tubs (7'8" x 7'8"), the only real difference is the Hawthorne has the lounger. I have the 2009 Hawthorne and could not be happier - more than enough power in the jets, and will seat 4 comfortably (no touching!). You should be able to pick up either of these tubs, with all the bells and whistles (except radio) for around $6,000 exc tax. Like a previous poster mentioned look further afield if you local dealers won't budge - you may end up paying a couple hundred $ for delivery, but that's not a big deal if the price is right.

All of the spa's I've seen (not too many to be fair) 'pull' (or suck) water through the filter(s) via the circ pump and/or main pumps, so to say that this system is not "correctly engineered" seems total BS to me. The reverse of this is to obviously push water through the filter(s), but the only way to do this is with a fully closed, pressurised system, which a hot tub clearly is not. At the end of the day it doesn't matter whether water is pushed or pulled through the filter - it's still being filtered either way.

Six times a week, but only had tub a little over 6 months. Only thing that stops us is rain or high wind.

If you need to have new wiring installed then consider going for a 60A circuit - this will allow you to run both main pumps plus the heater all at the same time. By default the tub is configured for 50A which means the heater will cut out anytime you're running both main pumps, but your dealer will reconfigure the board for 60A if you decide to go that route. Of course this choice depends upon how cold your location gets, if you intend tubbing in the winter, and - most importantly - that you don't risk tripping the main house breaker by calling for too much power. Speak to an electrician about all of this.

You are correct Jerimiah - the circ pump, ozonator, stereo, LED lights and stainless trim are all optional on the 680 series, however my dealer "threw-in" (if there really is such a thing) all of these options except the stereo when I bought my Hawthorne last year. No idea how much energy the circ pump uses, but I've been very happy with my tub so far - no issues.

If you're still reading some FC tonight then you probably don't need to shock. If it's at zero then, yes, try shocking at 10 PPM.

$6,000 is a good price for the Sundance's. Last year I paid $7,000 for my 2009 Hawthorne including tax, cover, cover lifter, steps, and the 'optional' 24 hour circ pump, ozonator, LED lights and stainless jet trim. Don't know about the Tiger River Caspian but yes, I'd have to assume it's a better tub when it costs $3,300 more. The Sundance circ pump is not programmable - it's hardwired to run 24/7. You can program the filter cycles, i.e. 30 mins for 2, 3 or 4 times a day, or just 2 x 5 mins per day. With the circ pump option you do not need to run the main pumps for heat as the heater works in conjunction with the circ pump, plus the 24/7 ozonator.

Like pkillur said the shortest distance is usually 5 ft from the closest water, and must be line of sight. As far as I'm aware this can be either a GFCI or a disconnect. If you use a disconnect then you still must have a GFCI on the circuit (main service panel, or a sub panel). Your inspector can advise further on all of this.

Ken, Are you sure about these electric supply figures? 110V typically uses a 20A circuit, and 220V anything from 40A to 60A.

Only that the dealer can see his potential sales drying up (not much profit in a gallon of bleach c/w Dichlor!). Myself and plenty of others on this forum use regular Chlorox with no problem. I'm personally unaware of it containing any impurities that could damage a tub, but I'll defer to more experienced and knowledgeable members on that one.

Thanks, What can I use to increase CYA? Dichlor (Sodium Dichlor Granular Chlorine ) - this contains CYA. As Hrustar said follow Nitro's Dichlor/bleach method.

Like Mark says you will pay more to keep your tub at a higher temp - simple laws of physics, regardless of how well your tub is insulated. However if the difference is only a few dollars then it may not be worth worrying about, plus your tub will always be ready for use.

Using my own 530 gallon tub as a basis it will take about 11 hours to get from 10c to 39c with a 5.5KW heater. 5.5KW x 11 hours = 60.5kwh 60.5kwh x $0.145 = $8.77

Is it Hives? I say that because my son get's them when he goes from a hot environment to cold, or vice-versa.

At a rate of only $0.088891 per kWh then yes, I'd agree $22 per month average sounds reasonable. Wish I paid that sort of rate as here in NY it's over $0.15 per kWh, meaning a Colorado $22 bill is around $40 here. Also, when you say "average" is that an average increase for any customer during the winter months, or an average bill over a 12 month period - i.e. lower in the summer, and higher in the winter?