mjs

I don't know that there is a "norm", but I've heard 3-4 months as the max you should go. In discussing how often I change my spa's water, I find it useful to mention WHY I'm changing it. In the two years I've owned the spa: - I've changed it ONCE because I couldn't control the cloudiness, - All other times, I've changed the water because of foaming. For me, foaming is obviously the critical factor, and I change the water typically every 6 weeks. I should also add more info: - I use the spa several times a week year around, - I do not jump in if dirty or sweaty but will shower first; I do not take a shower if I seem to be "clean", - I use a defoamer which helps, but does not eliminate the problem. I also know using too much defoamer will in turn icrease cloudiness. - My spa if a "foam generator"; that is lots of jets, several pumps, lots of air, and I like them all on HIGH OK, that's my story and I'm sticking to it!

I compared Sundance and Vita (and other brands) nearly two years ago. Both seemed very good, but I went with a VitaSpa's Nuage. I've been very happy ever since.

I considered those very spas a little over a year ago; I also looked at the Saratoga Putnam. I chose the VitaSpa Nuage for a number of reasons, and have been very pleased with it. What I like about the VitaSpa Nuage: every seat has a different set/combination of jets; two 2-speed pumps, individual control over most jets; an excellent control panel with automatic features (auto shutoff; auto skimmer feature, auto anti-freeze feature, etc), CD ozonator, circ pump, and dual filters. Also, keep in mind that any needed service, including advice, will come from your local dealer. Be sure you're comfortable with the dealer regardless of the brand of spa you purchase.

Do you have a diagram of how the pumps and jets are hooked up? That would be helpful in determining if there is a problem. ALso, diverter valves can get clogged, or the o-rings mis-installed. If you don't have any luck on your own, be sure to get your dealer involved - this is partly what you paid for.

For Caren - regardless of where you live, you can seek out other dealers for the same spa to compare prices (I did), but in the end you're also buying for service from the dealer should you need it. I'm all for the lowest price, but be sure you're comfortable with the dealer.

The price mentioned in the oriugial posting seems reasonable to me; and I'm cheap and did most of mine myself! The example given requires running a 22ov cable from the main box into the attic (through walls???), through the attic, back down, over-the-river-and-through-the-hills......I estimated more than 150 feet! Thats a lot very heavy gauge wire, which is not cheap, and the heavier the gauge, the harder it is to run!

Suggestions for "I knew" and "martin"; from a spa owner (not a sales person), engineer, and one who's dome something similar: First of all - the suggestions above are all good; and some I'll repeat here: 1. Your MUST have relatively easy access to the side with the equipment. I accomplished this by building a section of removable decking (three approximately 3 f 3 ft sections), and a pair of removable joists. 2. You should have some way of getting access to the other sides. - One way is to build in 2-3 ft removable section on a second side, and; - build your primary support structure "oversized". Then if access to the last two sides is required, you can empty the tub and push it to gain access. 3. I love my current tub-and-deck arrangement; the tub is "sunk in" about half-way, putting the seats about even with the deck. This was done p[artly to avoid blocking windows, and partly so the tub wouldn't look like a giant monstrosity on my deck. 4. If you have a high deck, be sure the spa support structure is sufficiently sturdy AND complies with local codes. Somre localities prohibit tieing this type of structure to a house.

The water in my area is realtively soft. Since the main reason I drain and refill is foaming, I've seen recommendations from several sources that I should measure and add calciumm as "moderate hardness" reduces foaming, compared to extremely soft water, at least. If it wasn't for the foaming, I would't worry about low hardness at all. Corrosion, IMO, will be controlled by maintaining proper pH.

I've two comments: FIRST: what you described doesn't seem abnormal. I use my spa 3-4 times a week, and lose an inch of water every week or two. If you don't use your spa, your water lose should be less, but it still may be noticable (say, an inch a month). I typically will add water when it drops about two inches, say every three weeks. SECOND: I doubt if you heard your dealer correctly, or maybe it was the way you posed the question. As you stated it above, I'd say your dealer didn't know what he was talking about or was BSing you for some reason. Since what you described here is normal, must assume there was a mis-communication. Here's why: the moisture that condenses on the bottom of the cover runs down/drips off back into the spa, hence NO WATER LOSS! There will be some water loss, of course, but it will be because you cover isn't 100% tight, and some humid air escapes, and perhaps a little condensation drips out at the seam, but this should be very little.

I bought a VitaSpa about a year ago (Nuage). Great spa, and I highly recommend VitaSpas as a spa line (as a consumer only; I'm not a dealer or in sales in any way). Also, after skimming thses forums for 6-montsh and participating a little, I'm very happy with the VitaSpa. Great controls, computer logic anfd protections, automatic skim cycles, varying cleaning cycles, etc. Not to say the Marquis arn't also really good, but I can and do vouch for what I was soaking in this morning

Gotta Get On The Bandwagon.......

If you have a dealer in the area, consider the VitaSpa Nuage. I did an almost side-by-side comparison of the Nuage to the Caspian - no contest.

Loungers are "personal", some like them some don't. For what little its worth, here's my 2-cents why I don't like loungers: - I like being able to move a bit to shift the exact placement of jets. This is easy to do with no lounger and only slightly sculpted seats. - I can "stretch out" as if in a lounger any time - I just spread out (assuming the arn't many other folks in the spa). There's very little pressue at any point on mt body because of bouyancy, so I "m very comfortable and don't see the need for a lounger. - My spa has jets in the back of the seats, jets on the front edge of every seat, as well as several jets in the footwell. I often stretch out and have jets on my upper back, lower back, thigh, upper calf, lower calf, and feet - all without a lounger. Just food for thought for those checking out spas.

COnsider an analogy - decks on the back of your house. I'vve NEVER heard anyone say "I wish our deck was smaller", I often hear folks say the opposite. I think this analogy applies to spas, hence, perhaps the real answer to the question is: buy the largest tub you can afford and have room for. I did, and don't regret it. I considered slightly smaller spas, and after using mine for a year, I'm glad I got what I did.

If you're handy, pour your own concrete slab. I put in a 7x7 slab, 6" thick, with rebar every 8". Probably overkill, but as en engineer I tend to overdesign everything I do. Total cost was less than $200. If you're having a contractor pour the slab, be sure it's adequately re-enforced.

I own a VitaNuage, and my thoughts are based on that: I LOVE the larger jets, especially the "quad-stream" jets. These are also interchangble by the owner with 2 or three other jets with the spa filled. If you have the choice, get as many of the "large interchangable" jets as you can. Next - the "select-s'swirl". If you can, have the "finger massage" jets replaced with the select-a-swirls when they build your tub. Last - get the LED light package, and skip the water misters.

I'm a user, not a salesman. I looked/investigated thoroughly last year before purchasing a Vita Nuage. I've been very pleased. I should also add - your local dealer is as important, perhaps even more important than the brand of spa you purchase. Regarding price - look as "far and wide" as reasonable. I found three Vita spas withing 45 minutes of my house, and the price for the identical spa varied by over a grand.

It obviously depends on the temperature of the initial fill, the size of the heater, the volume on water, and even the outside temperature. However, and obvious note: delivery and hook-up arn't the same thing., and it will take an awful long time to heat up with no poer OK; I generally find I get a little over 5 degrees per hour when I refill mine.

I gotta disagree with statements made by Brulan; “24hr circulating pump puts ozone 24/7 with a uv bulb wich is more expensive to operate than a plasma cell ozone that coleman offers, and also 24hrs of ozone could prove cancerous. Plasma doesn't lose its potency as quick as UV does. Do you think a 24hr pump running all the time that never shuts off would last more than 2 yrs.? Do you think that the circulating pump actually filters the water 100percent or just the water within the vicinity of the pump? Actually the whole body of water isn't being circulated unless people are in the tub pushing the part of the water not being filtered into the area of a circulating pump. Why would you want something running 24hrs. I just cannot understand that logic. Oh-well I guess people have to learn for themselves” WRONG, WRONG, WRONG. My spa has an ozonator and 24-hour circ pump, and DOES NOT use ultraviolet! There are two primary methods to genetate ozone for these applications, UV, and corona discharge (also described as electrodes, and plasma). The corona discharge in considered by most to be superior, “also 24hrs of ozone could prove cancerous”. Then why is ozonation one of the technologies continuously pushed by EPA? Ozone id merely a fast acting disinfectant. The biggest problem is it has a VERY SHORT half-life. “Do you think a 24hr pump running all the time that never shuts off would last more than 2 yrs.?” YES, YES, YES. The biggest problem well designed machinery has is shutting them down and restarting. Major equipment runs great when its operating, shut them down, and they may not restart. Another reason I favor a 24-hour circ pump is they are relatively quiet. I get 24-hour circulation and filtering, with little noise (and minimal power consumption). Last – I think there’s a reason my spa’s warranty has 5 yea5rs full coverage of all pumps and plumbing components, including the circ pump. Another question, for Brulan: what spa company do you work for? It seems pretty obvious you’re biased to a couple of companies, and I think we all would like to know where you're coming from.

Naw; I merely asking a legitimate question to what appears a sales posting. I guess I got my answer.....

I tried two brands of scum balls - didn't seem to do anything (I guess I should be happy my spa is so clean - other than the foaming, that is).

The reason I asked, brulan1, is that there was a distinc LACK of technical information on the company's webpage. What leads????? If this were a system I was reviewing for the marine industry, I'd ask the company to provide more info - or be shut out!

I test primarily with a phenol red titration. I know that if bromine is real high this method will provide false readings, but it seems more accurate than the strips, I don't have to use my aging eyes to determine a precise color, and I don't mind titration (having started off life as a chemist). Re. a "beffer test", can you e a little more specific? I don't recall this type of pH test.

Can someone explain just WHAT this system is, and HOW it works (without sales BS, preferrably)?? I found and looked over the ecosmarte website, and frankly, as a chemist and engineer, I'm extremely skeptical. If someone can 'splain this system, I'm listening. Otherwise, I'll remain a skeptic.

Local codes may specify a max distance between the spa and disconnect - in my county it no more than 10 feet, and the minimum distance seems to be a standardized 5 feet. The "logic" seems to be: Far enough you can't touch the spa and disconnect at the same time; close enough you can get to it in a hurry. Just because your electrician is certified doesn't mean he knows all the codes. The one who helped me (I did 90% of the work) recommended putting the disconnect UNDER my deck, as I have a "trap door" to gain access to the inner parts of the spa - but I had in writting the county requirements which said otherwise.