txpoolguy

If the suction created by the pump exceeds the limits of the flexible tubing, the tubing will collapse & restrict water flow to the pump. If you are already seeing this, then you need heavier tubing or rigid pipe. Generally flexible tubing is not recommended on the suction side, but is okay as long as the tubing isn't overtaxed. Pressure side is not a problem, although you will replace the flexible tubing more often than the rigid schedule40 pvc.

It's always a good idea to begin with properly balanced water. They are probably suggesting the shock to elevate your chlorine level so the SWG can maintain it from there. Conditioner/stabilizer is necessary and should be maintained at around 80ppm for best results. The SWG does not "eliminate chemicals", but rather is an alternative way to generate chlorine so you don't have to add it manually. You will still need to maintain the pH, alkalinity, calcium level, hardness level, etc. I'll let the chemical guys comment on muriatic acid vs. dry acid, but you will need some way of keeping the pH balanced. Muriatic acid is heavier than water, so when you pour it into the pool, it settles to the bottom & damages the liner unless it's carefully mixed or added to the water.

Based on your description, I don't think the heater itself is the problem. Once the heater reaches the temp set on the thermostat, it should cycle off, then back on when the water temperature drops @2 degrees. Cycling this rapidly does not sound normal, but the heater has to be responding to a change in the water temp. If your return/s are located near your skimmer, it could cause symptom like this because the skimmer could be pulling in water that has just come from the return, giving the heater a "false" actual temperature. Try pointing your return jets towards the bottom of the pool, or away from the skimmer and see if it improves. When the thermostat is set to maximum, it will take approximately 104 degree water to turn the heater off, so when you dial it down, it looks for a lower temp.

If you're still waiting for an answer, it's either the internal manifold, or gearbox - most likely the "manifold" inside the cleaner has stuck & will need to be replaced. It's not really a serviceable part.

Read the bottle/bag that the stabilizer comes in to find out how much you need to add for that gallonage and also for recommendations on application. 2lbs. sounds light to me for 30k gallons, but the container should tell you for sure. The stabilizer dissolves slowly, but a common practice has been to add it slowly into the skimmer, then it will dissolve slowly from inside the filter. This may not be a good practice, depending on which filter you have.

You may retain the "green hair" issue unless you remove the copper that is/was present in your pool water.

Not to diminish your experience, but in Texas, where we get mid 90s water temp during the summer with heavy bather loads, etc., most consumers seem to be very happy with their SWCG. There are also many commercial/public pools that use the SWCG for sanitizer and are successful even in extremely demanding environments. There are a variety of reasons why your pool may have had trouble maintaining a chlorine residual, but most of those can be addressed. Generally speaking, they do offer great convenience, but there will always be issues that have to be addressed manually. Even with the Total Pool Management (name is not entirely accurate), there are chemistry issues that must be manually addressed. You should not have to invest more than 30 minutes a week to keep the pool water safe, clear & properly balanced. I'm a big fan of the Goldine/Hayward SWCG. Every industry professional has their preference, but Goldline by Hayward is the industry leader & developed much of the technology being used by other brands today.

I don't know if it's still available, but there used to be a plastic shelf that would sit on top of the spa benches to create a shallow play area for small children. I haven't seen them advertised in a long time, but it might be easier to create something like that than trying to build an independent structure in the pool. I'd stay away from the plywood, since it's not really very light, and when saturated with water will get heavier and will also decay rapidly.

A small amount of debris immediately after backwashing is likely normal, based on your description. A small amount of debris is getting into the return lines as you move the valve, and this will not be rinsed out until you move the valve back to the filter position. If you had a problem in the valve or with one of the laterals, you would be getting continuous debris, not just after backwashing.

There are no instructions from Hayward for installing the DE filter without a valve, either multiport or slide valve. Inlet/outlet are not marked for plumbing directly to the filter. The owner's manual specifically states "This product should be installed and serviced only by a qualified professional." It's unlikely that you will get any assistance from Hayward since installation issues are not normally warrantable as the problem you had is not a defective product, but rather incorrect installation.

Your electrician friend is correct, and has your safety at heart. When your inground pool was built, there should have been a "bond" wire which is usually a bare copper wire, approx 10 gauge that connects the shell of the pool, decking and pool equipment in a continuous bond. If you look around the pool equipment or, perhaps between the pool equipment and the closest deck area, you may find this wire has been buried. It is an external bond, not the same as the internal ground you mention. Local and national codes do require the external bond.

Your post says you want one that operates independently of the pool, I'd recommend the Shark-Vac made by Aquavac. It's one of the most inexpensive self-contained cleaners and does a great job.

My suggeston is to call an electrician. It's possible that the conduit may have crushed or rusted thru to the point that the light cord is jammed & won't move, or the light cord itself may have swelled so that it can't be pulled out. An electrician has tools that may allow him to remove it even though you cannot, or he may need to replace the underground conduit. If you break the light cord inside the conduit, you won't be able to extract it.

It's often hard to tell which is leaking without replacing one, then the other. There is a gasket that seals the two halves of the pump, underneath the lock ring you show. You will need to clean all the grit/debris from the sealing area to ensure a good seal. If replacing this gasket does not do the trick, go ahead & take the pump to your pool store & they can replace the shaft seal, as well as inspecting all other components while they have it apart.

Both Hayward and Pentair also make booster pumps for cleaners. The Hayward 6060 pump was designed to be quieter than the standard cleaner booster pump. It's also less expensive & has same warranty.

Shopvac is often easiest & pretty convenient. There used to be a "water vac" that connected to a water hose & vacuumed sand via a water venturi, but this used a huge amount of water. Other than that, a plastic cup and a whole lotta elbow grease & sand in your armpit is last resort. Sounds like you're on the right track.

Often, proper chlorine levels in the pool will kill many types of bugs. I'm not a pest control specialist, but veriify correct water balance, including pH, chlorine, TA, etc. You might try superchlorinating... I don't know of any effective way of keeping critters out of the pool. I get live bugs in my pool when the chemistry is off, but only dead ones with proper chemical levels.

Is your filter media sand, cartridge or DE?

Agree with Pool Clown, the variable speed pump will save energy dollars and your copper fittings won't be affected at the lower flow rates. The Navigator will need a higher speed for proper suction, probably just one or two hours a day will keep the pool clean and will wear the cleaner at a slower rate. Since you're already looking at the Prologic PS-8 with the Sense and Dispense, the Hayward variable speed pump will interface directly with the ProLogic PS-8 so you can do all programming thru the controller. If you don't have a spa, it's also likely that a 2-speed pump will accomplish the same goal at a much lower initial price. It will only have one high speed and one low speed, low speed is usually about 1/2 the flow rate of high speed. If you want more speed options, the variable speed is the way to go.

There aren't any automatic shutoffs that I'm aware of specifically for this situation. However, the Stratum VR-1000 is an anti-entrapment device made by Hayward that would protect from a number of different failure scenarios, including this one. VR1000 is designed to turn off the pump in response to increases in vacuum that might indicate an entrapment, but also responds to decreases in vacuum as well, which would shut down the pump in the situation you described. It isn't cheap and the cost of replacing your pump would likely be less than installing this system. There may be other products that I'm not aware of.

you can find industrial grade gauges that are oil-filled and sealed better than the inexpensive ones used in our industry. I don't know how much they cost, but would guess 30-50 bucks per gauge. I've seen them but never purchased them so I don't know where to recommend you look. Perhaps an industrial supply compay?

There are a variety of "knock-off" cells becoming available. I would guess that the TurboCell T-Cell-15 is likely a Goldline product. All brands are proprietary, so a Jandy cell will not fit a Goldline control box, vice versa. 20-25% solution is generally recommended for cell cleaning 1 part acid to 3 or 4 parts water. Submerge cell until it quits bubbling inside, or a maximum of 15 minutes per treatment, treat multiple times if necessary. As the acid is removing the scale, it's also working on the metal plates, so be gentle.

Polaris has a pretty good reputation all around. I haven't used the 3900 yet, although it sure looks pretty. Choosing between the 280 and 380, I'd pick the 280. 280 is a good solid cleaner, and you'll save a few hundred bucks.

Get three itemized estimates before you commit to anything. The prices don't sound bad, but without actual square footage, it's hard to say. Prices vary by region as well. Ask all bidders about what products are avalable for the pool interior finish. Standard white plaster will likely be least expensive, and with good maintenance can last 10-20 years. They change the color by adding dye to the mix, or for more expensive versions, will change the color of the sand additive. More expensive products can last longer, depending on what they are composed of. Like everything, you will get what you pay for, so even though you're over budget already, be careful about making a choice based solely on price. Just like the cheap macaroni & cheese, it just isn't the same. The equipment prices sound reasonable, but again, shop around. Quality of equipment is much the same from the big 3 mfg. (Jandy, Hayward, Pentair) so you'll likely get good quality product from any of those.

You might want to doublecheck and make sure the P-4 has software for controlling the VSP. The lower end (cheaper) controllers don't come with all the same features as the higher end products. A quick call to Goldline Tech support can answer that question (908)355-7995. The P-4 will allow you to add a wireless remote (AQL2-SS-RF & AQL2-BASE-RF). There is also a new model I just saw called OnCommand, which is very similar to the P-4, but gives you more options on remotes. It's exactly the same as the P-4, just different look to control box. Still recommend making sure it will control your VSP.