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About tomtom2

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  1. Been reading some old posts here on and off. I went through the Jandy troubleshooting guide. My heater worked about 2-3 months ago. It will go through the 3 cycles of lighting and then get the AGS Service error. I replaced the flame sensor and the ignition system and still get the lockout. I can see in the window the igniter glowing on all 3 cycles, blower kicks in all times, water flow seems good (no low pressure) and it simply will not light the gas. The blower blows out the natural gas (smell it). what am I missing here? Id stick some pipe cleaners down the venturis to see if
  2. I currently bought a house a with the Jandy PDA and its really a piece of work. Its slow... drives me nuts. It looks like the iAqualink connects to smartphones, etc. How hard is it to swap out the panel or the whatever I need to do this myself... or is this really something a pro should do? Poolsupplyworld has a number of different systems and they all seem straight forward.. but I have no idea. Thanks!
  3. Thanks Spa Guru.. I appreciate the insight. I tried the "ask jandy" live help and he came back said those number, but a minimum of 30 gpm or it will auto shut itself off. It must have a flow rate monitor somehow.
  4. I was chatting online with Jandy for my Laars ESC-400 heater and they are telling me I need 50-70 gpms for that pump... seems like too much to me. Any thoughts?
  5. Awesome...im not an idiot. So I do need the RS485 cable plugged into my panel. Most likely I need a firmware update though to make this work or do you think my Intellitouch panel will simply just "work" and I can program the pump from the panel in my house no problem. Thanks much!! Now to find a VF pump and cable online....
  6. Thanks much for the feedback. I know my Intellitouch i7+3 panel has not been touched in over 5 years. I know the people before me had Solar at one time, but its disconnected. Same with an inline chlorinator that died. Sorry if Im a broken record.. hopefully I will get this down... if not kick me to the curb... - install the pump as it was any another 230v pump. - add in the RS485 cable to my existing i7 Panel to control the pump - Assuming I need new firmware for my remote keypad to understand what the heck is now going on.. or will the brains from the VF relay info to the keypad in my
  7. Ok, seems like I would need to add the IntelliCom part to my existing IntelliTouch System to be able to control the speeds, etc with the VF pump. My other option (correct me if Im wrong) is to simply hook the pump up, schedule my filter runs and calibrate the GPM and be done with it. I will still get savings, probably not the extreme end since I cant have multiple GPM schedules.
  8. Just a clarification. With the Intellitouch you aren't limited to 4 speeds. The Intellitouch programs the pump on the fly for a speed or flow rate change so you can have a dozen different programs if you want to. I know in my system I have at least 6: normal circulation at 26 GPM, solar panels (with a 3-way valve to switch flow) at 48 GPM, gas heater at 30 GPM, pool cleaner (through a dedicated line with a 3-way valve to switch flow) at 15 GPM, high-speed override even without solar at 48 GPM, another high-speed override at 78 GPM. Being the novice I am, is there software I can download
  9. I was going to get the VF anyways. As for the 3hp, Id never need that much anyways at 18k
  10. Is programming my Intellicomm something I could do on my own. Im fairly technically, I assume its a piece of software and RS232 cable
  11. Thanks much everyone for your tips and advice. I stopped into Leaslie's Pool yesterday.. (Not a fan of the place, but needed to actually see the Intelliflo VF.) But a light finally came on on how it works. It basically has 4 presets on the device. You calibrate the flow based upon preset. Im assuming to setup the base calibration, you set your presets as follows: (at least for mine) - Heat with Polaris connected - Polaris only connected - Spa Mode with Heat (only cycles water through Spa) - Fill Mode (produces the waterfall over the spa tub into the pool) - Polaris not connected (I
  12. So I think what you are saying im not going to see much of an energy consumption drop if switch out to a different pump correct? Couple other notes: - Polaris pool vac - no solar - sta-rite filter - 400,000 btu Laars heater - 18k pool - spill over spa
  13. Well actually, I just found this calc on the web.. Amps x Volts = Watts Watts/1000 = kilowatts or kW Kilowatts x Hours = Kilowatt Hours or kWh So my current pump is 10.4 Amps.. at 230 volts. 10.4 x 230 volts = 2392 Watts 2392/1000 = 2.392KW x 2 hours = 4.78kWh 30 days x 4.78 kWh = 143.4 kWh per month Last month I had 999 kWh used, so you can imagine my PGE bill... blah. I still cant figure out why electrical is so high. Energy Efficient appliances, new 95% furnace, low watt bulbs. I thought maybe it was the pool, but looking it this calc, its not really the pool from what I
  14. That is some amazing data. I do not have solar, so I would have to go by your numbers. I have a large dome filter cartridge also. My pressure gauge is broken on it, but I can tell when its dirty when the water coming off the spa into the pool is not spilling as fast. So looking at your numbers, and run the following scenarios: 40 GPM, 2075 RPM, 615 W, ? .. PSI, 6.7 h, 4.1 kWh <--- this is what I run when I use the Gas Heater (Program #1) 15 GPM, 2180 RPM, 540 W Pool sweep. (Program #2) Program #3 Not sure for skimming. I would think that 40 gpm would work. But right now, Im r
  15. So my pool is 18k with a spill over spa into the pool. I have solarchlor that floats and generates enough chlorine to keep the pool relatively clean. The pool does not get used that much in the summer where I need to filter for many hours to get it back into shape again. I level the PH, throw some PhosFree Plus (I think thats that name) and some shock packets every now then if my CL drops. I leave my Polaris plugged in and it sweeps whenever the pump is turned on.. which is probably another consideration. If it runs at lower speeds, I will need to adjust the flow rate I assume to keep
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