PreservedSwine

The 1995 used a several relays, as well an electronic thermostat, and temp sensor, on the heat loop. Unlike the more modern equipment, all of them can be replaced separately, and relatively inexpensively. You'll need to narrow down your problem to either the relay (12v dc coil T-92's), the electronic T-stat, or the temp sensor. I'd bet on the heater relay, based on %, but it could be any of the above, or even something else. Good luck! And yes, the manufacturer recommends the E5 circ pump. The E-10 moves more water, butit also creates a bit more heat. It can lead to higher temps in the summer (ambient temp), so it can overheat the tub. But it takes days, if not weeks, for this to happen. When the temp shoots up t0 130 in a matter if hours, you have a real problem that need immediate attention.

The sovereign came in two different flavors. There was indeed a 240v only Soveriegn in 2004 (Model II), that came with a wavemaster 9000 pump (instead of the Wavemaster 7000 that came in the 120v/240 convertable Model I). It's 240v, so you'll need two 240v GFCI breakers in the subpanel. Look at the schematic on the inside of the IQ2020 control box cover for MODEL II (that's two i's) not model I (single i) Good luck!

No epoxy needed, its a snap. Just unscrew the escutcheon cover, then you'll have access to the lens. Just uncsrew it. Lefty loosey, righty tighty

Is your breaker a GFCI breaker? I'll risk internet embarrassment by you telling me it isn't. Either way, we need to know. I too would like to know how, exactly, you tested it. Don't get testy, people are trying to help you If you know how to test for current leakage down to 0.5 ma of current leakage, you should be able to determine exactly which component, if any, is leaking current. Can you not run the same test (current leakage) test on the pump? Are you not also assuming when you assume you know what you're doing, but it's possible you may not? It could be either one, or neither. Regardless, the leaky shaft seal needs to addressed. When does it trip? If water starts pouring into the motor, then it trips, good bet the shaft seal leak is the cause. Far more common in a bad heater. Less common is a different component, wiring issue, relay, bad breaker, over heated wiring, bugs crawling around, etc etc

Just the lens, It comes with a new O-ring. Part number 71830

Lithium Hypochlorite is a granular chlorine that won't affect CYA. Non Chlorine shocks such as MPS are more popular. Keep an eye on the PH when using them, as it will decrease. There are a plethora of options, these are by no means the only others that don't have CYA

If that spa has cut-off valves, ensure they aren't in the closed position.

The pumps sound air locked, or broken (assuming the spa is wired properly). Can you tell if the shaft is spinning, or stuck?

That's where they go.

"filters are visually clean " Visually clean may not mean able to flow properly. Just try removing the filter dedicated to the 24 hour circ pump (The one with an open pipestand after you remove the cap) Put the cap back on. Reset the spa. run the spa normally without that filter in pace, see if the problem vanishes. If it does, no need to call for service, just clean or replace the filter. If the problem remains a problem, call for service. The warranty on your spa is the most powerful in the industry, but one thing it doesn't cover is a dirty filter. Good luck!

Make sure your filters are clean. Does it do this while you're in it, or when the jets are running, or do you just come out and find it in this condition? It may also do this if the power to the house is interrupted while the heater is energized, then restored in about a minute or so. It will do this because the heating element is still hot, and when the power is lost, the hot element will continue to heat the water inside the heater. When power is restored, it reads that water temp as too hot inside the heater, and trips the high limit, requiring you to power down and reboot. If your having a few power outages, it s a possibility.

If the heat light is on, but 240 in not present at the element, the board needs repair or replacement.

Great, keep it set at 18v. If it blows again, call the manufacturer @ 1-800-999-4688

I'd mark it up to rotten luck. Take advantage of the warranty, that's what it's there for. What's the small jumper set for on the heater PCB (18v or 12V)? 77119 has been stellar in performance.

"After heating to the temperature specified on the control panel, the Ready light would come on, but if I then raised the temperature one notch, the ready light would not be lit. It would light again after the tub heated up to the new setting." The Ready light is indeed reading the current water temp. It comes on when the water is +- 2.5 degrees of the set temp. Since the ready light was introduced around 1998, the logic has always been +- 2.5 degrees. It has never been more, or less. Glad you got it working! PS: "So the ready light should come on when the temp is reached, and the heater should cut off at that same moment. It doesn't make sense that the ready light would still be lit at higher temps, unless there is something wrong with the heater and it continues to heat after the thermostat has told it to stop." That issue is not uncommon in warm climates. Hot Spring and Tiger River spas in S Florida routinely stay over 100F (or hotter!) with the heater never coming on. That little 24 hour circ pump introduces between 30 and 60 watts of heat, transferred to the water 24/7. Over time, in a small tub, in a warm ambient climate, it can get quite hot. That's why your spa is also equipped with a "summer mode," option

If you need to turn on the big pump to heat the spa, call a tech. When working properly, the jet pump has nothing to do with heating the spa. Hence why there is no logic to have it come on by itself. The spa is made to maintain the set temp 24/7 with the big pump never turning on. It's built to heat on demand, and filters 24/7, without energizing large jet pump. EDIT: Just to make sure we're on the same page, you're talking about a Tiger River Sumatran, correct?

Running the jets with the spa cover on will cause it to gain a fair amount of residual heat. Also, the ozone generator doesn't push air, it's just a box with a spark/light inside. The air gets sucked from the ozone generator by the vacuum created at the ozone injector (The "T" plumbed into the 3/4" tubing right after the heater) Pull the small, 1/4" ozone tubing off the injector (while the circ pump is running) to see if the blockage is in the injector, or in-between the injector and the ozone generator. If you see bubbles, injector is fine, blockage in ozone check valve, ozone tubing, or ozone generator).

Any voltage taking the neutral path back to the house was not being picked up by one (or the other) line's on the GFCI, was interpreted as current leakage, and would subsequently trip the GFCI. Frankly, I'm surprised it worked at all, assuming you ran a neutral. At any rate, you're right, that is an odd duck.

All Freeflow's come with the ozone jet installed, but unless you ordered an ozone generator, it won't have it. At any rate, the ozone jet will only need to be cleaned if you have excessive hardness, or a build-up of particulate matter inside the jet.

What year is your TX? (It's likely there's a small jumper you can move to enable the higher temp settings hidden in your spa)

Assuming the breaker that supplies power to the heater is good, you pretty much nailed it.

That's just coincidental, the heater doesn't communicate with the logic on the IQ2000. If the thermistors didn't do it, the next step is to upgrade to the IQ2020 control box and control head.

It has a separate circ pump that runs 24/7, there is no need for the large pump to cycle.

yay! It's not a code. That's just a signal loss or communication error. Keep you fingers crossed, if it's gone you are hopefully out of the woods

That's just broken.