PreservedSwine

" Why not just set the spa to the desired lower temperature when I go on vacation" In an era of circuit-boards and inexpensive features to make life simpler (or more complicated in an effort to make life simpler), putting it in sleep mode saves you from pressing the temp button 20x down, and then 20x back up upon your return. Is it really necessary? No. But it does save some button time.

Probably the waterfall feature LED

It's a communication error. Either something on the I2C interface (multi-color light, stereo, etc etc), or if not an issue on the I2C interface, bad control head, or bad main PCB.

That means the thermistors are metering out ok. On the very, very, very small chance the ozone generator may have an extremely rare failure that effects the high limit, disconnect the ozone generator (if you have one). It sure sounds as though the main board has wet the bed, but you need to confirm. It may be worth it to hook up a new thermistor for giggles before plopping down a few hundred bucks on a new IQ2020

If the jets can be tightened, try doing that 1st as well, before any digging. Look for loose or cracked jets, and intake fittings, which can be replaced without digging foam.

The high limit is tripping. It's interpreting the high limit thermistor resistance as out of range. Either the water inside the heater is over 120F, the high limit is bad, or... a bad main IQ2020 PCB. Good luck!

How long does it take the red light to flash? Instant? 30 seconds? 5 minutes? How is the circ pump flow? Can you see it? Can you feel it? Is "lim ok" trouble led lit green on main PCB? Is "control unplugged" trouble led lit red on main PCB?

Look again at the voltage on the heater circuit-board. That particular circuit-board is destined to fail. Ensure you're getting 120v (or 240v if wired for 240v) ACROSS the the heater terminals on the heater circuit-board. In 2007, the logic of ut1, ut2, ut3, and ut4 had ended. There is no way to get it back. That logic is contained in the control head, not the main PCB.

It appears they ran an extra wire. Many "240v" spa's need a common neutral. Yours, however, does not, it's true 240v, and all components appear 240v.

No. You will not recoup any energy savings Yes, 120v will work just fine. 220v is not more "efficient" than 120v in amount of work done per kilowatt, it's more efficient in that you can draw more amps using smaller wire. You're buying convenience when you go 240v in a 120v/240v convertible spa. On 220v, You can run the jet pump on high speed while using the heater, and the heater will heat 4x as fast. (Of course, it will use 4x as much electricity to do so) In S Florida, that's not particularly important as we have very few cold nights, and the spa's lose temp very slowly while you're using it. Most current spas maintain a constant water temp 24/7, so heating 4x as quickly isn't a particularly strong advantage. Running the heat while the pump is on high speed, however, is a big deal... in cold climates. In S Florida? Not so much... The only potential energy savings would be ins a 2 speed pump, where the run times of the pump would be less during heating cycles. However, the pump would still need to run several hours per day to filter, the saving may add up to a dollar or two per month. In spas with a 24 hour circ pump, there would be no savings.

All sales people are familiar with a wet test request. Good luck in your search!

Center and side may both be rotated. Center discharge just means the pressure side is, well, centered. Side discharge is off-set. Both flow in the same direction. If you want it to fit exactly like the original, replace it with the same. If there's a little wiggle room, it likely won't matter. But it's always a good idea to go with the same, just in case.

The heater and circ pump are on completely different circuits, assuming it's wired properly. Do you have two separate GFCI breakers going to the spa? When wired properly, if the heater GFCI breaker trips, the spa continues to operate normally, other than it stops heating. When wired properly, if the breaker that energizes the circ pump trips, all power is lost. All signs point to a bad circ pump, assuming it's wired properly. Good luck!

It means there's moisture inside one or more of the led's. There is a constant mini-voltage signal present (even when off) that has migrated via the moisture, and can make the lights do all sorts of nutty things. The moisture can overt-tax the transformer as well, leading it to fail. All LED's should be replaced, as well as any damaged LED housings. Sometimes it's a simple job, sometimes it takes hours, if several housings also need replacement. The LED's are about 10 or 12 dollars each in the US, the complete LED and housing is around 15, the transformer is roughly 35-40, as is a new controller. I don't beleive the led's are 5vdc. That's just the voltage from the transformer into the controller. There is no way to test the lights, as a single damaged LED housing can make them ALL not work. You must remove each and every LED, dry, and inspect each housing for damage. If the LED breaks into several peices trying to remove it, that's a good sign the housing has corroded and is damaged. It helps top have all the parts on hand as you attempt to repair. The lights are gorgeous. But next time even one fails, fix it immediately, as letting it sit will ultimately make it much more difficult to repair.

Check the small air tube that connects to the motto, it can crack, or just fall off.

Where, EXACTLY, are you measuring voltage? The thermostat should have 120v on one side until you close the circuit, at which point the 120v travels through both leads on the way to the rectifier. Posting a clear picture of your control box wiring will help as well.

There are many differences depending on the year of your tubs. Make sure you list the year your spa was made, or even better the serial number. What may be remedies for one spa, may not exist on another.

Just call the store where you bought your spa. It's only available from Hot Springs. It comes with very thorough directions. You may find you're better off buying a new outdoor sound system if you shopping dollar for dollar. The only advantage the spa system offers is logic integration with the spa control panel.

The module IS the bluetooth. There is no installed hidden bluetooth function, you have to install it. The module communicates with the control box via an I2C interface. It's a bluetooth amp, and I wouldn't install it without the subwoofer as well. The speakers on the Hot Spot are entry level, don't expect much from them.

If it's a late 93, it could have a hairline crack in the shell, usually they're found around the light, or step. Look for what looks like a hair under water, and try to wipe it away. If it doesn't wipe away, it's a crack.

If you can find an aftermarket reset button the element seems fine... but you're on your own in that dept

Set your meter to volts, and meter across the two terminals on the heater relay where the heater wires are attached. It sounds like the heater has failed. Try mashing that reset button for all you're worth. Peel the tape back, and press down as hard as you can. Use a screwdriver if you have too. You want it to OHM out around 9-11 OHMS

If it goes smoothly, you'll have no problems. If there's a curveball, it's a fail. Is it possible it will go smoothly? You bet! Is it possible it's a complete waste of time, money, and energy? Yep.

Did you check power to the heater, OHM out the heater, or both? It may just be a little reset button on the heater if it is indeed the original heater still in there. Was the new control box previousley wired for 110, or 220v?

IQ2000 or IQ2020? The IQ2000 hasn't been in production for several years. If you replaced with IQ2020 main board and control head, just jump the flow switch receptacle on the main board. If you replaced with an IQ2000, where did you find it?