djousma

you are fine.

Winter is the ONLY time we use our hot tub. Just now fired it up for the winter here in Michigan. Come about mid-april, and freezing temps are done, it gets drained for the summer. I look at the additional cost kinda like running the A/C in the summer. I set ours at 104 and leave it. If you only use the tub say once per week, then I would turn the tub down or use "economy mode" to save money. If you find yourself using the tub daily, or at least several times per week, then I would leave the temp up, as you will spend more money heating the tub everytime you want to use it vs, maintaining the temp. As for how much it costs, you will have to experiment. If it is a newer tub, they are pretty economical - maybe $30 month. if older, then its anyone's guess.

I live in Michigan too. Its dark so early here in the winter months, that the darkness provides plenty of privacy. We dont have any fences around, as I dont like the closed in feeling. so, when it is light out and our kids are home, the suits are on. when its dark out and the kids are gone, then suits are optional. We just turn the lights in the house off, since our tub is next to the house. Makes for a better experience for us too. If the neighbors get to nosey, i just invite them over sans suits, and they havent bothered us again, nor do they sit by the windows watching either.

Their website is still up, and I havent heard anything about this. There is a spa dealer in Holland that works very closely with this company, called Great Lakes Spa center. here is their website. The owner of SPATEC spa's used to be involved in Great Lake Spa's, which was bought out by Emerald Spa a few years ago. Spatec is a new venture, but like anything else now days could be having trouble too. I would call Great Lakes and ask them if they know. They can also assist with parts(over the internet), or service if you are in thier area. BTW, I am not affiliated with either company, other than a customer who bought a Spatec(IST) spa. And for the record, I am very happy with the tub.

I think we need more info/photo's of your particular ozonator. How old is this unit? What brand? I see you have a PROZONE, which is the UV type. I dont know if these operate on suction, or if it has a small blower builtin. Does the bulb light up?

why on earth would you shutdown a HOT tub for the winter? sorry had to ask. We shut ours down for the summer. In reality it is just personal preference I guess.

7' off the ground, your considerations are not just supporting the weight, but also side-to-side stability. If that deck is not securely anchored, and you get any lateral movement in the tub, it could spell disaster. Without pictures, it is hard to make suggestions, but you could add additional supports below the hottub location. If it were me, I would bury some 6x6 supports 4-5' into the ground with concrete. given your location in utah, that may not be possible. you may get away with additional vertical supports, tied together with diagonal cross-members to provide stability. I built a 12x12' floater deck that is about 5' off the ground, 2 steps lower than my current deck. I used 9 6x6 legs 4' into the ground with concrete tied together with 2x12 supports, but it was built from scratch. Whole thing is topped off with 2x8 joists on 12" center I'm sure it is overkill, but I didnt want to take any chances, and it was cheaper to just add more lumber than to have a engineer or builder come out.

Not sure where my original post went, did the mod's delete it? Are you sure you dont have electrical problems? do the lights in your house dim when pump/heater kick on?

I agree. Plus 5000# of water/hot tub/people 24 inches off the ground, can create a lot of leverage. You can pay an engineer to come out, or you can just add additional mid-span load carrying beams under the hot tub area, with 4x4(or 6x6) supports in concrete and be done with it. If your deck is attached to the house you dont want all the weight hanging from the joist hangers alone.

I just now received this; We purchased a cover from you in September 2002. Any chance you have the specifications on file and I can just re-order? Ken D----- Denison, TX How long do think an average spa lasts? How about only needing the last 2 covers for half of double? That is pretty good. In 20 years of tubs, lids on my tubs last 4-6 years, before they weight too much.

I applaud your efforts, and hope it works well for you. 2" of styrofoam really isnt enough insulation though. And what are you doing to seal the styrofoam so that water doesnt get absorbed? How heavy is the lid? It would take two to lift that cover. If I were to attempt this, I would substitute some kind of rigid light-weight composite material for the plywood, and a piano hinge. Use 4-5" of styrofoam, and somehow seal the styrofoam with some kind of spray on material to stop water from entering. Then cover it with the same vinyl material used today. I never liked the cover I presently have that is self-supporting tapered styrofoam. Tends to warp over time, and soak in water. I'd pay double the cost of what Dr. Spa mentioned if it truely were the last cover I ever purchased.

I'm pretty sure this is their addr info: Innovative Spa Tech Inc 315 Garden Avenue, Holland, MI 49424-9602 616-393-4915 (Service) I'm from the area, and that is the general location of their headquarters

You can find info on IST here. I own the IS600 model and am extremely pleased with it. Not fancy designs, but practical. They have a lot of good features and comparibly lower prices. 2Yr warranty. Mine has the Gecko spa pack, and my electric bill went down dramatically compared to the 10 year old Great Lakes Spa it replaced. I do not work for them, or any dealer, but they are made here in West Michigan.

Note that the impeller *may* have left handed threads on them. My old tub did. I too would just replace the seals. doesnt take long.

If cost isnt a concern, and you like the bigger one just as well as the other, go bigger. Sounds like you will be happier. We have a 6 seater, but usually is just the wife and I. when that is the case, we only fold one-half of the lid back. keeps the heat in during the dead of winter. Nice to have the additional seating capacity when we entertain.

What if the dealer charged a $50 wet test fee? Which, if you purchased, was deducted from the total cost? I don't know what kind of margins that most of the dealers operate under but buying a tub is not like buying a car. Not always feasible to test drive. At least it would stop the casual soaker with no strong intention to buy. I could also envision that after wet testing the tub they wanted, how many people would insist on a "brand new" tub, that was never filled? Because now that showroom tub that was filled to wet test is considered a showroom demo, that another customer is going to insist on a discount since it is "used" in their opinion. It's almost a no-win situation for a dealer. BTW, I'm not a dealer, nor am I in the spa business. I did sit in the tub I most recently bought, but it was empty. I did not feel the need to wet-test, but that is my own personal opinion.

Don't forget that there is some expenditure on the side of the dealer to fill a tub up and wet test it. They will have to absorb the cost of deprecation from filling it with water and pay for the water, heating the water, and chemicals for the water. And in addition to these points, there is no way a dealer can possibly have every tub wired in to electricity.

I suspect you just defeated the one-way valve by poking the hole through. Maybe it was installed backwards and that is why you were not getting any flow. best advice is to get new ones from your spa dealer, and replace them, taking care to install them in the proper direction.

I'm wondering why you dont just use PT wood for the whole thing, like a deck directly on the ground. No different than a standard deck. My 8x8 tub is on a deck 4' off the ground. Built a 12x12 deck with 2x10 joists on 12" centers(all setting on 9 8' 6x6's 4' into the ground with concrete) with 2x6 as deck boards. Very sturdy. If you really need it 18" off the ground, put several 6x6's down on the ground first(leveled, etc) perpendicular to the joists. All that dirt with your tub on it will have a tendancy to want to "spread-out" putting alot of pressure on the wood that is holding it all in, especially when it gets wet.. Regarding the comment about chemicals in PT wood, they no longer use arsenic. Do you let your kids play on your deck? Nothing to worry about. As far as the PT wood rotting, it will last much longer than the tub.

Warren, What climate do you live in? If southern, then the outdoor wood tub would be fine, but if you are in the cold north, those wood tubs dont do much for energy conservation.....

How far are you planning on towing it? If it were me, I would put some wood down under the tub that is the width of the tub for support, or set the tub up on its side and strap it down.

I would not worry about it.

Thanks for the explanation! Dave

I'm curious about this vinegar process you are doing. What is it supposed to be doing for you? I have never heard of that, so I'd like to learn something new.

It is just the nature of the beast, just like over time(4+ years) the cores soak up moisture and get heavier and heavier. So, flip them over, and if they take another 8 months to sag, then flip them again. That is why it is important to keep snow off the lid too. I personally have often said that if someone perfected a cover, and it costs twice as much as what is currently available today, but never sagged or soaked up moisture, I would buy it. But then manufactures of lids wouldnt be as successful....