Pool Clown

Yes, you can keep them reversed. The air sensor is needed for the freeze protection. Don't think you will need that for at least a few months.

Before you buy a new sensor, try switching the air sensor with the water and see if the reading is still out of wack. You don't need to move the sensors, just switch the connections at the board.

The soot accumulates from the bottom of the exchanger. You wouldn't see it from the top. You will need to disassemble the heater to get at the underside of the exchanger. If you are getting flames rolling out, it is because either you have a huge downdraft, or the exchanger is sooted.

Take a pic with it together, I wont be able to tell if it is put together wrong if you photo it all apart.

Post a pic of the plumbing at the equipment.

   Can you post a picture of this? Sounds like the grid bundle has not been reassembled correctly.

   Sheesh, I swear that made sense this morning. Now i can't even make sense of it... What i meant to say was, if the panels were over a story up, water wouldn't have flowed up there because it was easier (for it) to flow back to the pool rather than up to the roof.

   You got it. You may or may not see a difference adjusting the cam as the water would have taken the path of least resistance anyway... If solar is only one story up, or on the ground, may not see improvement. If not, consider taking a portion of your run time and run during off sun times.

Post some pics to photobucket.com and link them to this thread. Are you saying that the actuator used to work properly and now does not stop at the correct positions? Or has it always worked as you described?

If switching the plugs on the board did not change the problem, then it is the actuator. Something wrong inside. I don't think there are any parts available for actuators other than gear sets.

Google "black rigid pvc pipe"

Sounds like you have a hole in the exchanger. Exchanger can be replaced. Not hard, but is involved. (You) may want to have it done rather than DIY.

You may need to clear the memory. Unfortunately, that will erase all of your settings and programs.

Are you getting voltage into AND out of the transformer? I know you said you are getting "juice" but where are you getting this? And what was the measurement?

G3 is designed to operate on the suction (plugs into skimmer or vac) line. The booster pump is for "pressure side" cleaners, Polaris, Legend, and the like.

If you get the PLC1400 cell kit, it comes with a new sensor (new style that lasts longer). But you will need to re plumb. If you are pricing an old style cell, be careful they aren't in production anymore, and not sure Jandy would warranty it with the new style in the event that it failed. New cell is still cheaper than a new system.

If you are getting voltage at the gas valve and no fire, it's probably the gas valve, as long as you are CERTAIN you are getting gas to the valve! Confirm you are getting gas to the valve before you order a valve.

Is the ring (the part that is plastered in) metal or plastic?

There are no "common" screws. Every manufacturer has their own size screws. The hardware store that i use has a stainless steel screw assortment pack that i use. Your hardware store should have the same.

If the light fits in the niche but you can't get the screw started or it is stripped, http://www.pooltool.com/catalog.html parts 132 or 132-A

Your Welcome!

That leak repair on the top of the filter is an abomination!

Could be several things. Does the heater lock out completely? or will it try to light again in a few moments?

Richard?? Can you chime in here? It is not an alternative to Chlorine but rather a means by which you can use less chlorine.

If correctly balanced, yes, it will work. However, keep in mind that ALL the debris will be going through that (small) line and may, err WILL be be prone to clogging.