Bob M

Hi All, My Jandy LT heater is not Igniting. Normal start up, blower cycles, Ignitor heats up with visible glow, then "click" but valve doesn't open so no flame. After three tries the AGS (auto gas shutoff) error light comes on. I suspect it is the gas valve itself,Honeywell VR8305M4140. I took the electrical leads off the valve and attached a meter to check the voltage. It read 28V AC when the heater tried to open the valve. Anybody had similar experience or comments about what else it may be before I replace the valve? Thanks for any insights. Sponge Bob Pool Pants

My Jandy LT heater will not light and it is making a loud humming noise as soon as it tries to turn on the blower motor. I took the top of the heater off and checked for blower obstruction. Everything seems fine as the blower wheel and motor turn easily by hand. I suspect it may be the motor capacitor or possibly the transformer. Anyone had a similar problem? Thanks for any info you can share.

I've watched the panel for error light when the heater shuts down but there are none that come on. I've also checked the ohm reading at different temps. To get the water temp past 97 I disconected the temp sensor and wired a 10k ohm resistor to allow the heater to remain on. Had it set to 100 and stayed on until 100 was reached, I then put it to 101 and heater came on and heated up to 101. This was just to get an ohm reading at higher temps. 62 = 14.59k ohms 97 = 6.57k ohms (this is where it shuts off) 100 = 6.22k ohms 101 = 5.6k ohms These seem in spec when compared to the chart. So I suspected the thermostat limit switch(s)were at fault or something on the board. On a hunch I unlocked the thermostat limit switches on the heater and rotated each one a couple of times. These had been locked in the same position for about 4 1/2 years. After reconnecting the temp switch I turned on the spa and set it to 101. Heater fired up and temp went to 101 without shutting off. So for now it is working. Many thanks to Pool Clown. This is the second time you have helped me with a problem. Sincerley appreciate your time and posts.

I havent done this but should be easy to do. I'll let you know if I see anything.

There are three temp sensors. 1) the temp sensor that goes into the fire box.(only has one wire) 2)Exhaust temp sensor. 3) the flow/temp/salinity sensor for the aqua pure. Which one should I test? The water temp sensor for the aquapure is accurate when compared to a thermometer.

Yes, dual thermostats, both are turned all the way up. Does the same thing on both.

I have a Jandy LT heater that has been working fine. But now when using the spa which we set to 100-101, the heater shuts off when it reaches 98. It will try to start 2 more times, blower starts, ignitor lites, but gas doesnt come on. There is no error condition indicated. When the spa cools to about 95-96 the heater will come on and go up to 98 again and then shut off. The temp sensor is accurate and the limits are set to max at 104. Anybody ever seen this problem before. Thnaks,

I just rotated the entire gas line assembly out and up without diconecting anything, it was enough to allow removal of the burner assembly.The removal ov the burner assembly was pretty easy but it was a litle tight clearing the lower lip of the front panel. The installation of the new ignitor was easy. The wires run underneath the burner assembly in a protected channel. It was easier to remove the channel than try to thread the wires through it. The channel is easy to put back on. The new ignitor I got included new "gasket" material for the burner assembly. this too was pretty easy to put on, just make sure you clean the old material off first and wipe it down to remove any dirt/dust so it will stick to the metal well. The gas assembly with the nozzels will just rotate back down to bolt onto the burner assembly. I then tightened the connecting pipe with a pipe wrench and checked for any gas leaks. Overall I think it was worth the effort. I figured I saved at least $200 by doing this myself.

Thank You Pool Clown! Replaced the HSI and it's working better than ever.Had to remove the nuts that hold the gas jets to the burner assembly and slide the entire burner assembly out. The HSI is mounted to the back of the burner assembly and the wires run through underneath to the back. Thanks again for your help. Could not have done it with out you and figured I saved $200+ by doing it myself.

I think this is what you wanted to see. http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/i377/bobm991/DSC00286.jpg The HSI wires just run under the burner manifold.

Ok, here's a couple more pics. First one is overall front view and second is the lower part. both looking down. http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/i377/bobm991/DSC00284.jpg http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/i377/bobm991/DSC00285.jpg

I would guess that a reading of 2.6 M ohms means that the HSI is non functional. Do you know if the replace procedure is complicated? I am just not sure how to gat into the combustion chamber to replace this. Thanks much for your help.

Just took a reading. 2.6 M Ohms.

Here's the pic. http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/i377/bobm991/JandyLTheater.jpg So I circled the disconects. Is this what should read 25-300 ohms across these wires? Thanks, -Bob-

I have a Jandy LT heater that will no longer fire. I'm pretty sure it is the ignitor and wanted to replace this part myself. I've looked at the owner manual and it shows the ignitor in the exploded parts diagram. When I take off the front door, I cant tell where to remove this part. The symtoms are that when requesting heat, fan comes on, after a while there is a loud click but no heat, even for a little while. It will go through this cycle three times and then the service and AGS light come on. Ive watched the litle window in front and there is no glow during the start up. Does anyone know how to test the ignitor and have instructions on removal and replacement? Thanks much for any advice.