AdmiralDave

Mat got it right - Sovereign is a darn good tub - Watkins/HotSpring uses some of the best insulation in the business. You're in good hands. Your HotSpring Sovereign has a 24 hour recirculating pump that keeps the water flowing through the heater when the jets are not on and is really well insulated. This keeps the tub at constant temperature that is preset by you. If you have the spa set up on 110v power source then the heater shuts off when you activate the jets. If you have the spa set up on 220v then the heater stays on even when the jets are activated (which is not necessary in Florida). As long as you keep the spa covered when not in use it will always be ready for you to use. I love my Sovereign and keep it at a constant 105 on 110v power source in Alabama.

I'd use Bioguard Spa Shock-Oxidizer (non-chlorine MPS) and the Chlorinating Concentrate. Also their Stain & Scale Control. I just briefly looked at the Litehouse website and it looks like they have their own private label chemicals so there's no telling who makes them. IMO BioGuard is the best. http://www.spaguard.com. As a dealer of course I'm going to tell you to buy your chemicals, parts and filters from your dealer! It looks like the prices are fair on their chemicals (again we don't know who makes them)....the inner core/outer core filters Litehouse sells are marked higher than what we sell them for but overall they're a fair price. Your dealer should be providing you a comprehensive water test free of charge....but sometimes you just don't want to get out. At home I use the AquaChek TruTest - which is pretty darn accurate. You can buy this anywhere online (Amazon, etc.) This does not test TDS (Total Dissolved Solids - an indicator of water saturation - and a sign to drain/refill when we get above 2000) and calcium hardness. I would get to the dealer at least once a month to get these tests.

I would drain the spa really good including getting a shop vac and sucking every drop of water that you can through the jets, etc. Also, I would get a big pair of channel locks and disconnect (unscrew) the unions on all the pumps (I usually have the shop vac head sitting there once I unscrew to catch residual water). This should get you in good shape.

I'd pick it up for free from you if it ran. Maybe a few hundred bucks if it was in good condition.

Sundance Optima by far the better spa. If you like the Optima size/shape you can also look at the Sundance 780 series Chelsee or the Sundance 680 series Hartford - these will be cheaper with less options.

You might want to look at the Sundance Burlington if you like the lounger - (but get the circ pump option because it is an option on this unit). Tiger River Bengal 220v too on the Watkins/HotSpring side.

Ordering the replacement wood skirting can be quite challenging....because they are in limited stock quantities in most cases. I would contact your Jacuzzi dealer ASAP and tell them the year and make of your spa to see if they are available. If the panels are available they are shipped unfinished so be prepared to stain the panels to your liking. To my knowledge the synthetic cabinets they are now using do not retrofit to the older spas. Hope this helps!

I'm gonna have to agree that Thermo-Spas are junk. Any manufacturer that has info-mercials I would stay away from. I've picked up a few of them and took them straight to the dump for a proper burial. Stick with the reputable brands like Sundance, HotSpring, etc.

HotSpring and Sundance Spas are the best bets. IMO Sundance has the best hydrotherapy (880 Series) - I own a 2007 Sundance Marin. HotSpring is also very good in the areas of hydrotherapy, electrical efficiency and longevity. Both of these dealers have been around for over 30 years. Go wet test both of them.....you'll love the Accu-Ssage seat in the Sundance!

I would go with HotSpring Grandee or Vista or Sundance Cameo or Optima. In my opinion the Sundance Spas are better on hydrotherapy and the HotSpring slightly better in longevity and energy efficiency.

$5,700 is way to high - get them between $3,000 and $4,000 somewhere. Remember warranty is voided once the original tub owner parts with the spa.

ditto - I use the 1/6 HP pump I got at Lowe's for around $60. Be sure not to use the power cord to lower and retrieve the pump from your spa...I tie a rope to the pump and leave it hanging over the side of the spa for retrieval....this helps from yanking the cord away from the pump. If you're really feeling wild you can get one of the submersible pumps that takes an 1 1/2" pool hose that will drain even faster.

10K with the stereo is an awesome deal! I was quoted 11k for a similar setup....I'd buy it!

Lotions cause this, makeup, hair gel, etc. this most important thing though is washing your swimsuit several times without detergent first (if you wear one) - then do not wash it for as long as possible after this. Many times the washer's rinse cycle will not completely remove the soap and hence the bubbles. When you do wash your suit repeat the process. Hope this helps! AD

Hi eveyone! I was wondering for your thoughts on the differences between the 880 Series and the 780 series of Sundance Spas. Is it really worth the price difference? Thanks!

When the TDS gets to about 2400

I recently filled up a Sundance Hamilton (550 gal) with one of those, w/ medium water pressure and it took almost two hours. Hope this helps.

FLO is the main eror code for a clogged filter, improper water level or a malfunction of the flow switch. This has been known to shut the whole thing down. Also check your jumpers to make sure they are where they are supposed to be. e.g. one might be set off to the side, etc.