ChaiSTi

If that's the only fitting under water, then you found your problem. The drain fitting could be loose or the tube connected to the fitting could be damaged. I have seen some spas where the drain tube is made too long that when the spa is set down part of it gets crushed by framing or foot well. Have you checked the hose bid? Maybe it's open?

faceplate = volute cover? Maybe your new pump has a larger/thicker impeller? Are both wet ends the same size?

This spa has the in.xe or in.xm, right? If so, the light is tied to the xfo fuse. If everything works but the light, then you may want to check with light cord/connection. If the cord/connection looks okay, then you could have a problem with the light itself. For the stereo, check out fuse for the medium size output. I think it's a 20A Buss fuse but check them all, just in case. If all the fuses are fine, then you'll want to check all connections to the stereo, as well as, the voltage regulator that supplies to ~12V to the head unit.

There was not too much specifics on GCS's website or manual so I'm not sure if you spa uses the low speed or dedicated circ. pump for heating. My guess is that it uses the low speed of jet 1. The in.therm requires 18 gpm to operate adequately. If you do not have a flow issue with jet pump 1 low speed, then you may need to replace the heater. Does jet1 low speed come on automatically for heating? If not, then you may have an issue with the pump itself. Try testing for voltage to the low speed. I believe the test point is between the neutral and red wire for this system. I don't suspect the control pack yet because the in.xm is supposedly a "smart pack". A pack issue would usually throw the code SpHR. Try the factory setting and see how that works out for you. Increase or decrease it based on need.

I'm not familiar with the spa brand but I am familiar with the Gecko Aeware control system that it utilizes. The code is tied related to the in.therm heater. It indicates that there's a lack of water flow to activate the heater. Does your spa have a 24hr circulation pump or does it use the low speed of pump 1 to cycle the water? Either you have a flow problem or a sensor issue within the in.therm. The problem with the in.therm heater is that these sensors aren't accessible. You would have to replace the whole heater whenever there is a fault with it. Also, check the in.therm's communication cable to the spa pack for either a loose connection or damaged/bent pins.

The white wire is neutral and the green one is ground. The black, red, and orange are all hot wires. Turn the blower onto the stage that you like and determine which hot wires are getting voltage. The voltage to these three hot wires should change based on the stage that you activate. Place one probe on the white wire and use the other probe to test all three hot wires. If you end up needing a new control system, you'll know which wires to connect.

hotpod, you may want to ask the dealer about the spa's warranty. LA Spas list the Palomar as a "Mid-Range" model. The warranty you stated is for the "Premier" models. Are they providing you a warranty beyond the factory warranty?

Be carefull with the blower. It is rated for 120V only where as your pump is probably 240V. Make sure you set up the correct voltage for each component.

Check out Highwood USA website. They supply siding to spa manufacturers. They may be able to direct you to a distributor is not deal direct.

^ Best way is with a multi-meter. Set it for continuity or resistance. Remove the two wires to the pressure switch and check for an open and close state. If water is flowing it should be closed. No water flow = open. You may want to search for some other threads as this is a common complaint and has been discussed thoroughly on this site.

Have you contacted your spa manufacturer / dealer about a possible acrylic repair kit? You're going to have to use a rotary grinder to rout out the crack. Sandpaper to smooth out the edges and a heat gun to cure the filler.

I think Spa Parts Plus has a metal jet wrench, part number WRW5203. I'm not 100% but it looks like it is designed for the Waterway's wall fitting. Instead of silicon, you could try Teflon tape on the thread but I'm not sure how it'll hold up. I would still apply a little silicon on the gasket. As for removing the jets, you could try a strap wrench. May be easier to grip and won't damage the jets with teeth marks

Are these trichlor pucks? If so, i'd recommend draining asap.

That's a waterway poly jet. You can purchase a jet wrench to remove the wall fitting to replace the gasket. Part number to the wrench is 218-1770A.

You probably would have to replumb the jet body. Before you do that, you'll want to make sure the new jet body is the same diameter as the original or it won't fit the hole properly.

A buzzing motor usually means a bad motor. In case the pump is fine, you can check: - Proper 240Vac - Air lock - Jets all in open position - Filters *if tied to troubled pump

The spa heater is the number one cause for tripping so it's possible. Have you tried running it w/o the heater connected yet?

That's a good test to determine whether the motor is still good or not. If it turns out that your motor low speed is still good, then the board relay is faulty or it's being disabled. I see that Artic Spas currently uses Gecko's Aeware control system. Is the control sytem in your 2000 model also from Gecko or Spa Builders? If so, check the PCB for a lit red LED. If it's on, then your hi-limit sensor tripped which would disable your low speed. Reset the power to the spa to see if the red LED will go off. If it doesn't, then you could have a bad sensor/wire/connection. If it does but comes back, then your heater could be getting too hot due to inadequate flow or it's staying on when it should be off (bad board).

Can't answer all your questions but (e) you can look at models that seperates the swim and hot tub area i.e. D1 AquaFit 19DT or Master's MP Momentum.

Whoa... tricky guys there. Do other spa manufacturers do this, as well?

To me it sounds like your spa motor is overheating. Do you have a 110 or 220 spa? Do you have an amp clamp meter to check for the amp draw on the motor?

There should be no temperature setting about 104*F. Maybe you're accessing spa programming for filtration? Do you have spa manual. If not, you can download it off the Hot Springs website.

- Check / Remove filters - Rotate jets to make sure they are in open position - Check / Rotate diverter control - Check gate valves - Inspect pump

The FL is related to the pressure/flow switch or sensor so I would start there. Do you know what control system is in the spa?