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wireman

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Everything posted by wireman

  1. First thing I wouldn't have a "handyman" do real electrical work. Hire a real electrician. If you do that you don't need to worry about much more. Here's the things to look at. How many amps is your service? If smaller, say 100amps: Do you heat with electric or gas? What's the max load on your service at any given time? I really doubt that you would overload even a 100amp service in the dead of winter even if your heating with electricity but still things to take into account. As far as the breakers go. You can mini up some of them and create room. Just need to be aware of multiwire circuits and keep your phasing correct.
  2. Of course Canada is different than the US. Down here each state has the ability to amend, interpret and adopt different parts of the NEC also so it's not clear cut across the whole country.
  3. Do you have a test kit? This is incredibly simple. You use MPS to oxidize the combined chlorines. Simple. Doesn't matter when you add it. Chemgeek has been nice enough to give us this information: 1 tsp MPS per 350 gals per 1ppm combined chlorines.
  4. What code book is that? In the USA we use the NEC.
  5. You weren't even sure if you were adding the shock or the sanitizer.. I think you should start with making sure you're adding the right chemical.
  6. I suspect the lack of insulation around the sides will quickly add up in cost. Especially in a cold climate. Why not look for a nice, fully insulated used model?
  7. Here's another little nugget for you to chew on.. WA state has said the the disconnect is a sub panel and the continuous copper ground is only from the tub to the disconnect. From the panel to the disconnect any NEC legal wiring method is approved in WA.
  8. Manufacture specs overrule NEC as long as they increase the safety margin on installs. Can't downsize past the NEC even if the manufacturer thinks you can. If the manufacturer SPECIFICALLY calls for a #6 ground, you the electrician are required to install it. Otherwise a #10 ground is fine up to 60amps. You have to understand what the ground is for. It is there to provide enough capacity to trip the breaker without damaging the wire in the case of a ground fault. It's not there to carry a continuous load. With manufactures requiring GFI protection of tubs the ground size is rather moot anyways.
  9. I try to stay in long enough when it's really cold so that I really don't notice the cold to much when i get out.
  10. I'm having excellent results using dichlor to bout 20-30 ppm then using bleach. Very happy with the water. And I'm noticing that if I don't treat for 2-3 days and don't use the tub there is still residual 2ppm bleach usually present. Not aerating the water. Of course it is the dead of winter here and there isn't really anything to get in the tub when the cover is on. Have to recomend this method. Water smells great when you test for CC and treat with MPS regularly. Thanks again Chemgeek! For helping us all out!
  11. I think the 120 Volt receptacle would have to be dedicated for the spa. My spa is dual voltage and the 120V option requires a dedicated receptacle. So you're still looking at running wire unless you get lucky and don't have much on that receptacle. If you have a dedicated outside 20amp receptacle circuit you would probably be fine using that. It might be possible to cord connect your tub at that point. If your weather gets cold your tub will lose heat faster when you are in it. I wouldn't spend 6500 on a tub then go 120 volt but if the cost is neglible to try it then by all means go ahead. Cost of power will be about the same.
  12. Have to say I wish mine went over 104 also but am not interested in silconing sensors or anything like that. The soldering a resister idea is solid but would definetly require some research.
  13. Bet it would work good if the bleach didn't damage it. Sorta spendy for me though.
  14. I'm getting a little lazy about checking and adding chlorine. It's below freezing up here in the NW and the tub doesn't have any probs if I don't add chlorine for a few days. But.. I'm thinking it would be nice to have a timer and little pump to just pump 1-2 tbs a day of bleach into my tub. Thought about something like a fish tank pump but the timer is a issue. Would have to be very brief. Any ideas out there?
  15. I would think most of pump heat is dissipated into the area around the pump. If a pump could heat the water much why would you need heating elements that draw 20-40 amps. Also to filter your water tubs are designed to run every day for extended time periods.
  16. Some you better not use a public restroom or one in a hotel for that matter. Wouldn't want to use a shopping cart either.. Geeshh. A properly sanitized tub is as safe as anything.. Doesn't mean you want to share it with your friends but the idea you'll catch something in chlorinated water is absurd.
  17. Make them replace it. The pump was frozen when you got it. Probably damaged something. Water in a tub delivered in freezing temps is not acceptable.
  18. Just don't get the 15 year old one. Find something 2-5 yrs old in nice shape and running.
  19. If it comes up in conversation I'd say I haven't tested the water lately. Can't really use it today. At some point with your kids you might have to explain that this is your private tub and you're not really wanting other people in it.
  20. Chlorine doesn't smell when you use it properly. I never smell much of anything in my tub. Testing, treating and shocking keep the water perfect.
  21. Go buy some kinda heat lamp. Put it inside the enclosure if there is room. Like the other guy said, check the temp. If you drain 70 degree water now you're left with very little water above 32 to keep whats left from freezing.
  22. I think it matters where you live. If you are going to have to sweep snow off it all the time and worry about your cover getting frozen up I'd put it under cover. You won't want to use it if it's burried in snow.
  23. There might be bleed fittings on your pump also that you can loosen. Mine has those. Also you can pull the filter and use a toilet plunger without handle to pump water into your hoses.
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