wireman

Shouldn't cost you much more than 200 for labor and maybe 100-200 for materials. A "splice" is completely legal as long as it's a approved wiring method. What I would do is re-feed the tub from the disconnect. Simple and cleaner than adding a splice box or another disco.

Tell him 1500 and it's sold! But.. Here's the kicker. You will see a 40-50 a mos power increase and you have to run it in the winter. Can't just let it freeze up. If money is not a issue and you want a tub this is a good deal!

Sounds like you need to raise your sanitizer levels. High is good.. Why not drain and refill. Couldn't hurt. If using dichlor i'd do it every 2 mos or so myself.

The two hot colors don't matter as long as they are black, red or blue. Always use white for the neutral and green for the ground. Use stranded from the disconnect to the tub. Don't tape them together. 3/4" PVC is plenty large. If you go bigger you'll have to modify the knock out on the controller box in all likely hood.

Screw TA I say and balance PH! Your mileage may vary : )

If you're breaker isn't a GFI one I'd replace it first if you don't have a amp meter. Breaker = 10$. See if it fixes it. If not you have a tub problem.

Ask the expert instead of random peeps on the spa forum? Insane I say.

That actually is a cooler than hell idea.. I have no idea what it would take but it would be the shizzle in the nizzle.

You might need that bomb shelter some day..

I'd probaly just build my own supports. Some 4x4's or some 6x6's. Get a rotohammer and mount them in place with brackets. One under each corner of the tub bout a foot in would do it I would think. Structural engineer is the safe way.

Get that soapy gal outa there now! LOL! Make her wash the dishes in the kitchen and not the tub for hecks sake!

If you paid someone to pore it get on the phone with them and tell the to fix it ASAP. I'd make them jack hammer out the pad and re-pour it. Concrete doesn't like to bond to other concrete.

You might want to think about draining your tub every once in a while to. That'll reset your CYA count and give you nice water to boot.

I'd start by checking your tub parameters. PH, Sanitizer. Then start trying other things.

Could you point me to some websites that discuss this? Personally, in the real electrical world, I've never seen nuisance GFCI tripping. Always there is a real problem. Whether it be a defective GFCI or a defective circuit or piece of equipment.

Spurious electrical effects. LOL! What are those.. If your install is safe and makes you happy then it's all good but the fact is that a normal GFCI breaker is fine for a normaly operating hot tub. Electricians are generaly weak on theory, that's a engineers job, but strong on code and installation. To be honest I'm not even sure what you're installing for GFCI protection. Most of us just buy a GFCI disconnect. CH makes a nice one and put it on the wall.

Sounds to me like you're spending way to much to GFCI protect it.. A GFCI trips for a reason. They don't nuisance trip unless the GFCI is damaged. As far as testing goes there is no NEC requirement to test your install. Pushing the test button on the GFCI is a good idea but you don't need someone to come out with test equipment.

Craig, I don't want to dwell on do it your selfers vs the "pros" I agree with chip that some work by the supposed pro's is shoddy. You need to interview your prospective contractors and try to get good refrences. The lowest bidder/price is not usually the best. As far as things I've seen they range from 4 wire dryer plugs being fed with a 3 wire. To large a breaker for a conductor. Ground used as a neutral. In wall splices. Loose connections. Lots of stuff. Feel free to ask any questions you have. There are a few other electricians poking round this site to : )

I'm sure that you're capable of it but some people have never wired anything let alone a hot tub. And when I say that all the homeowner wiring I've seen is subpar I mean that I wouldn't consider it safe. Not that it is mildly deficient in a few code references but just plain out unsafe.

I'm more than willing to give advice but to rebutt the idea that most homeowners should do there own electrical I'll give my 2 cents. Almost every homeowner wiring job I've seen is wrong, it's unsafe and not up to code or any reasonable standard. That aside I believe there are a few non-electrical professionals capable of safe work. I'm sure whomever did all the substandard work I've seen thought it was just fine. If your spa gives you the size of wire that you are supposed to use then use it. For the most part they either match the NEC or over wire it. If the manufacture specs exceed the NEC you are required to meet them. You mentioned 15' to a sub panel. If that is the case you do not have to account for voltage drop. Even at 150' I wouldn't worry about it myself. If you are looking for ampacity tables in the NEC see 310.16. And you need to understand that you looking at that #8 and thinking it is good for 55 amps is assuming that your terminals of of your hot tub and disconect are rated at 90 degrees. You need to match that temp column to the lowest rated terminals you are connecting to and if you don't know the rating you need to use the 60 degree column. Or just use the manufactures specs. I'm off to bed. Feel free to post any specific questions.

When a homeowner hires a electrician it is not the homeowners responsibility to get permits and they should not be liable. That being said the homeowner might want to ensure a permit is pulled as the contractor might be trying to pocket the money charged for the permit. On the other hand the electrical contractor might tell the homeowner that it will cost X amount of dollars to meet a code or they can hook it up as is, it'll be safe but maybe violate something like the 5' rule. That really does not effect safety.

I really recommend you hire a electrician to finish your install. You should have a ground, neutral and two hots in there if it is a 120/240 volt setup. You'll have to read the manual and see where to connect them. I also think those wires are going to come up short going into your tub. You will probably need to pull in longer conductors from the disconnect I think I see on the wall. I would pull new conductors, use a longer section of liquitite from the connection on the floor, much like what is there and run it inside the tub to the controller. You can get 90 degree or straight fittings that will be used to connect to the controller. I would also strap the liquitite inside the encloser to prevent any damage to the contoler if the tub is shifted around at a later time. You also need to GFI protect your tub if it doesn't have a built in GFI. There might be a GFI in the disconnect. You also need to check your circuit size and make sure it has capacity for the new tub.

Depends where you live to tell the truth. In WA I've never heard of fines for work that was previously done in your house but you can get fined if the inspector catches you doing/having work done without a permit. It is very rare. If you're having a electrical contractor do the work I would voice these concerns to them and see what they say.

Mine airlocked when I first started it and when I drain it. Mine has a black plastic bleeder fitting on the pump housing that you can unscrew to bleed it. Perhaps yours does to? I also use a plunger without handle to pump water in the filter intake. Seems to help.

I didn't mean to put any insults in my post. I'm betting that most hot tub dealers are not chemists and can't balance a chemical equation, that's not an insult but a speculation. And I'm not angry but just sorta amused that posts supporting dichlor and ignoring cya seem so conclusive. I honestly don't think it's a huge problem but to those that are really concerned that their water be the safest and best that it can be and are using chlorine I think that being aware of cya is reasonable. I haven't found any information showing that cya is a non-issue. I have found information showing that it is. I would like to see any information showing that sanitation does not decrease with increased cya use. Or even some federal or state agencies that have adopted the stance that cya is a non-issue. I do find a lot of states require pools to not be over 100ppm cya. This in itself says there is a reason for that.