Laenini Posted March 23, 2010 Report Posted March 23, 2010 Quick question: I have a 24" round AGP that I maintain using the BBB method, and a 450 gal portable hot tub that I maintain using a 3 step bromine process. I have a t-100 test kit from the vendor over at Trouble Free Pools that I use for the pool, and then when I got the hot tub last summer I purchased a Taylor K-2106 test kit for the hot tub. Both kits are fairly depleated now and I may as well buy a fresh kit for this season. If I get a Taylor K-2006 will that cover my needs for both the hot tub and the pool? I guess I am not clear what difference there may be in the chlorine and bromine portions of the kits I've had. When I am running the 2 different systems what would be the best value in a test kit for me? Any advice? Thanks!!! Leanne Quote
chem geek Posted March 23, 2010 Report Posted March 23, 2010 If you want, you can use the Taylor K-2006 (or the TF100) chlorine test for your bromine spa. To do that, you need to add the DPD powder and then add the R-0003 reagent before you add the FAS-DPD titrating drops. You need to multiply your reading by 2.25 so with a 25 ml sample each drop is 0.45 ppm bromine while with a 10 ml sample each drop is 1.13 ppm bromine. The reason you add the R-0003 early is that you only need to know Total Bromine since bromamine is also an effective disinfectant (unlike chloramine). [EDIT] The addition of R-0003 is not necessary. Bromamine will react with the dye in the FC test. [END-EDIT] Quote
Laenini Posted March 24, 2010 Author Report Posted March 24, 2010 If you want, you can use the Taylor K-2006 (or the TF100) chlorine test for your bromine spa. To do that, you need to add the DPD powder and then add the R-0003 reagent before you add the FAS-DPD titrating drops. You need to multiply your reading by 2.25 so with a 25 ml sample each drop is 0.45 ppm bromine while with a 10 ml sample each drop is 1.13 ppm bromine. The reason you add the R-0003 early is that you only need to know Total Bromine since bromamine is also an effective disinfectant (unlike chloramine). Exactly what I wanted to know. Thank you Richard!! Quote
chem geek Posted October 24, 2010 Report Posted October 24, 2010 See my edited post above. I was wrong -- you do not need to add R-0003. The Free Chlorine (FC) test will measure Total Bromine -- that is, both bromine and monobromamine combined. The reason is that monobromamine reacts with the dye in the FC test (while monochloramine does not). Technical details about this and the monobromammonium ion that makes this happen are described in this paper. Quote
mrwrick Posted November 6, 2013 Report Posted November 6, 2013 I am about to fill and begin testing my used Hot Spring Classic spa to be used at 2900 foot elevation in western Sierra foothills of California in 4-season conditions including periodic light snow up to 8 inches and periodic freeze cycles of overnight temps down to the teens, but not regularly below mid-20s and not for more than a couple nights a month during winter, then heat into triple digits in July and August, moderate temps and rainfall in spring and fall, all unless Mother nature has other ideas. I am ordering the Taylor K-2006. There seem to be variations in the letter designations, such as K-2006C, or just plain K-2006 and up to a $60 variation in prices. Any suggestions? I plan to use bromine since the spa will sit idle for weeks at a time with no heating beyond nominal to prevent freezing (80 or so) and no jets, just the recirculation pump on 24/7. I understand from this subject and replies that the Taylor K2006 will allow me to test for bromine. My last reading shows that i need to add DPD powder, then test with the FAS-DPD drops into my test sample, but not the R-0003 reagent. Please clarify the multiplication necessary to obtain an accurate reading for a 325 gallon tub using the various sample sizes. Thanks. If there are any other recommendations due to my use pattern I will appreciate them. Quote
chem geek Posted November 6, 2013 Report Posted November 6, 2013 If you know you are going to only be using bromine, you can get the Taylor K-2106 which will be less expensive since it doesn't have the CYA test. If you want to get the K-2006 in case you do decide to go with chlorine at some point, that's fine. The "C" has more volume of reagents in the kit. You can get the Taylor K-2006 less expensively here at Amazon. I would test both before and after adding the R-0003 reagent just to be safe. I think you will usually end up reading the same meaning that adding the R-0003 won't do anything, but you can let us know to be sure. Do you have an ozonator? If so, then it can generate bromine for you from a bromide bank. Otherwise, you'll need bromine in a floating feeder to maintain the bromine level. Quote
mrwrick Posted November 6, 2013 Report Posted November 6, 2013 Thanks CG. Keeping it simple, no ozonator, so it will be the floater. Quote
chem geek Posted November 7, 2013 Report Posted November 7, 2013 OK, just remember that most bromine users still need to shock with chlorine on occasion to keep the water clear and keep bromamines in check. Some try using MPS, but that's more expensive and may not clear the water as well as occasional chlorine. Quote
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