Troy H. Posted March 16 Report Share Posted March 16 Hi all, I'll try to make this short without skipping details. I'm having some issues with our old spa. Our tub is a 2012 Artisan Spa (60"x84") with a single pump and light. (Balboa parts) About 4 yrs ago, the pump went out - that was easy to replace as I just pulled the model number and ordered a new one. Soon after that the topside control panel went out, I ordered a new one that I thought would work (Balboa TP 400 I believe) It kind of worked... several of the buttons were misaligned. (ie: hit Jets 2 to turn on the light, etc.) But it functioned and turned everything on/off - so no worries. Tossed the original top controller. Over the last yr or so the face plate of the top controller has been peeling off and water has gotten into the controller (either from condensation, splashes, overfilling, etc.) About 3 weeks ago, the tub quit heating. I assumed it was the heater - so replaced it with an OEM replacement from Amazon. Took a week to get that in and during that week, killed power so it wouldn't burn up the pump. (it was running constant trying to heat) After replacing that and resetting it a few times (priming the pump and getting the air out, etc.) It started heating and acting normal. Enjoyed the tub again once it got back up to temperature for 1 day. Then - back to not heating anymore. Logic tells me at this point that it might be the top controller that is getting water in it and shorting somehow... Decided to order a new top controller (Balboa VL240 4-button controller pump, lights, hot & cold) since I needed one anyway and thought that might be the issue; I figured the 4-button was all I need since that is all the features our tub has anyway - figured it would work just fine. Plugged it in tonight - no dice. Instead of going into the "PR" cycle - display reads "187"? Only two of the 4 buttons respond - 1 to run jets (the cold button) and one to switch the light (jets button) So - now I'm thinking either it's the wrong top controller... or my main panel is blown somehow? Or maybe a combination of both? Guessing two solutions - either order/try a different top control panel or a new main board? Pic of model #, heater I replaced, and controller I ordered. Thanks for any help/advice!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanadianSpaTech Posted March 18 Report Share Posted March 18 A little bit confused here. The TP series of topside controls connect to the circuit board using a Molex style connector. The VL series uses a phone jack style. Post photos of the circuit board and the schematic on the inside cover of the pack. As for heating use a multi meter and test for 240V coming off the circuit board. You might have a blown heater relay and in that case you will likely only read 120V coming off the board. There may be a "Dip" Switch setting for the topside and how it operates. Again post photos of schematic and circuit board @Troy H. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troy H. Posted March 18 Author Report Share Posted March 18 So it's the "phone jack" style that it plugs into. I've attached pics of the inside wiring diagram as well as the board itself and a close up of the DIP Switch's. Hard to see on the DIP Switch's but they are labeled 1-10 (left to right) and I have them all in the OFF Position except #2 which corresponds to the Table 1 (#1 setting for 1 pump/blower) I also found this spec online noting that with my model number ending in SZ I need one of the S Model Controllers (last pic) I assume that's at least part of the problem.... Get the right controller and see what happens? I was able to test that I was getting 240v to the Heater when the old controller was working... Nothing with the controller I purchased. Leads me to believe I need to get the right controller on then go from there to troubleshoot anymore. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanadianSpaTech Posted March 20 Report Share Posted March 20 Google: balboa mvs504sz scroll to Balboawatergroup VS504SZ Hot Sheet . Bottom of PDF file you will see VL701S Shop around for best price online. Example: https://www.bathandspaparts.com/products/51057-01 Add topside overlay to order Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troy H. Posted March 20 Author Report Share Posted March 20 That Hot Sheet is a life saver!! Thank you!!! I've got a new Top Controller on the way and will update once installed. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troy H. Posted March 22 Author Report Share Posted March 22 On 3/20/2024 at 5:50 AM, CanadianSpaTech said: Google: balboa mvs504sz scroll to Balboawatergroup VS504SZ Hot Sheet . Bottom of PDF file you will see VL701S Shop around for best price online. Example: https://www.bathandspaparts.com/products/51057-01 Add topside overlay to order Got a New Top Controller and it's working with the tub, so I was able to do some more diagnosis with a Multimeter. Heater2 tab to ground = 120v through, Heater1 tab to ground = Nothing. Heater 1 to Heater 2 (expecting 240v) = 15v??? (No power on heating element) Ohm reading (last pic) 10.0 Ohms Bad main board? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanadianSpaTech Posted March 22 Report Share Posted March 22 When testing follow the power as seen in this video. Sounds like a blown K2 heater relay. Make sure heater light indicator is solid and not flashing when testing. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oiQBBHtejMA&t=303s 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troy H. Posted March 22 Author Report Share Posted March 22 Looks like its the relay's themselves... Just a little discoloration on the board and I'm getting power to the first jumper (ie: the "in" of the "black leg"). On the black leg, I am not getting any power from the upper left jumper (in) to the upper right (out), or from the upper right (out) to lower left (in). However, I do get a 240v reading from the upper left (in) to the lower right. I also do not get any readings from the Red leg jumper to the last leg of the Black leg jumper. Leads me to believe both relays are fried somehow.... I could get new relays - but???? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troy H. Posted March 23 Author Report Share Posted March 23 I guess if the relays are bad, the whole board is on the way out... it is a 12+yr old tub. I think I'm just going to order a new main board and save the continued hassle. Thanks for all your help and advice - at least I learned a heck of a lot in this endeavor!! I'll update once the new main board is on and we have a Hot Tub again! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanadianSpaTech Posted March 23 Report Share Posted March 23 Relays are pretty cheap and if you can find a local electronics repair shop it will be way cheaper than new. I have a local guy and normally have him replace all the relays on the board to freshen it up again. 100+ done... Never had a call back. You might want to search for a package deal with pack and matching topside if you have to replace the topside. Under $400 (Single pump only)...: https://www.hottuboutpost.com/balboa-bp7-control-system-with-tp500-panel-g6405-01/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troy H. Posted March 27 Author Report Share Posted March 27 On 3/23/2024 at 6:41 AM, CanadianSpaTech said: Relays are pretty cheap and if you can find a local electronics repair shop it will be way cheaper than new. I have a local guy and normally have him replace all the relays on the board to freshen it up again. 100+ done... Never had a call back. You might want to search for a package deal with pack and matching topside if you have to replace the topside. Under $400 (Single pump only)...: https://www.hottuboutpost.com/balboa-bp7-control-system-with-tp500-panel-g6405-01/ CanadianSpaTech - Thanks again for all your help!! I did find a Circuit Board repair shop in town - unfortunately, they wanted $250 to replace just the two relays that were bad (not to mention the others). I did end up getting a decent price on a new VS504SZ Board as an exact replacement of my one that was blown. Got it installed this afternoon and everything is up and running again! Guess I took the long expensive way around (new heater, new top controller, and now new board) - but on the plus side - everything is new and should last years; and if it breaks again I've learned a bunch thanks to your help! With any luck I may even get to enjoy the tub tonight - although it's pretty cold in Utah and the tub water was down to low 40's... Might be tomorrow. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanadianSpaTech Posted March 27 Report Share Posted March 27 Might be worth shopping the repair around online and have it as a backup or for re-sale. Glad you git it up and running. Enjoy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.