Gary_C Posted February 10 Report Share Posted February 10 Hi, I'm new to this forum. My spa is old, so the outside cabinet is in poor shape. But was fully functional until the recent leak. First question is HOW LONG can i leave electrical power off and water level very low, before concerns about other parts (pumps, etc) going bad? Water level has been low for weeks now but I only just turned it off today to try to find source of leak. I don't want to refill it constantly while I repair. But I also don't want to spend many hours repairing the leak only to learn something else died or damaged, due to extended power off time. (Of course I'll be sure it's not exposed to a freeze, but I live in North Carolina and think that weather is mostly behind us. And then main question is how to can I fully reach this leak in order to repair it? I've yet to get fully visibility to exact leak area. But 99% sure it's directly behind the main electrical control box, but way deep within--likely where the 3/4" flex PVC connects to the inner tub. I'm strongly hoping not to have to remove control box, and all the other stuff that's associated with it. So I hoped for some guidance here. Spa is very old so it's hard to justify paying somebody hundreds of dollars or more to try to do the repair. Plus the process of doing that, might create new issues with other hoses and tubing. So I hoped to do it myself, and replace some nearby plumbing during the process. Is it possible I can access and repair from INSIDE tub? Seems very unlikely, but figured I'd ask the pros here. Didn't want to damage something by starting there since ultimately any replacement PVC pipe will need to connect from the outside. Several pictures are attached, to show full details. I tried to be as specific as possible so it's clear about the issues and lack of access. And thank you so much, in advance, for any input on this! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanadianSpaTech Posted February 11 Report Share Posted February 11 19 hours ago, Gary_C said: Is it possible I can access and repair from INSIDE tub? There is a gasket seal that sits in between the jet body and the acrylic that can decay over time. Run a bead of (I use GE marine grade silicone) silicone around each Jet or the light to create a barrier so that water can't get between the jet body and the acrylic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary_C Posted February 15 Author Report Share Posted February 15 On 2/11/2024 at 10:33 AM, CanadianSpaTech said: There is a gasket seal that sits in between the jet body and the acrylic that can decay over time. Run a bead of (I use GE marine grade silicone) silicone around each Jet or the light to create a barrier so that water can't get between the jet body and the acrylic. Good info! I finally was able to follow up on your suggestion. From inside tub, I twisted and pulled a bit and the port, with attached flex PVC, is now free floating. I attached pictures and made up some terms in the photos to refer to the 2 different cracked pieces shown. Maybe I just cracked the "inner PVC port" by twisting and pulling at it. Was that originally sealed with PVC to the tub to keep in in place, or did the foam insulation I cut away under the tub keep it in place originally? And on top of that, the I think the original leak is caused by chip/crack in the "outer PVC flange" that's mounted into wall just behind the tub acrylic. The 2 options to resolve this seem to be: 1- dry out the full area and goop up w/marine grade silicone all around, then stick port back into place without changing any parts. But it will still have no support to affix it to tub other than that. So I'm worried that any stress on the flex pipe it's attached to could break that seal later. 2- Replace either one or both of the broken plastic (custom?) parts I mentioned ('inner' and 'outer' PVC ) that fit from inside the tub. That would mean removing the "outer PVC flange", which seems to be PVC-glued to other parts. Not sure how to "unglue" it? If I could do all that, it would probably be wise to replace full flex hose AND the "inner PVC port" fitting--if I could even find one. I have no idea if that "inner PVC port" is available anymore for an old tub like this. Any opinions on best next step? Thanks so much, once again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanadianSpaTech Posted February 16 Report Share Posted February 16 To me it looks like you have to replace the entire jet body with new. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary_C Posted February 18 Author Report Share Posted February 18 On 2/16/2024 at 6:20 AM, CanadianSpaTech said: To me it looks like you have to replace the entire jet body with new. Makes sense, but I am having trouble confirming what part to purchase. The closest thing I can find by description is this: https://www.spaworkssupply.com/jacuzzi-jets/fitting-wall-ozone-jet-heater-return or https://www.spaandpoolsource.com/6540-699-sundance-spas-Jet-Wall-fitting-accu-pressure.aspx But neither seem to be same as my part. Mine is a 2 part assembly, one "male" part glued to end of Flex PVC, and 'female" collar presumably glued to tub. Could it be the replacement is a one piece, instead of two? If so, I guess I'd need a rubber gasket and nut to thread onto the threads I see in those parts. But I can't find dimensions for any of it so hard to tell what's needed. I've searched for a parts diagram for my specific model but can only find generic owner's manuals, which show a few parts only--no good details. And even if the parts I mention were compatible for replacements, how can i remove the old "female" collar that's secured to the tub? Would it have a nut securing it from backside, hidden in all that insulating foam? Although I haven't dug that deep into foam, it kinda looks like these may be glued in. If glued, I wouldn't know how to dissolve the glue without damaging the acrylic tub. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanadianSpaTech Posted February 18 Report Share Posted February 18 You will need to know year of manufacturer of your spa. Google... 2011 Sundance Spas, Inc. Service Parts Catalog (PDF file so I can't post it) page 147 Might be this one: https://www.myspapartsstore.com/parts/sundance-spa-parts/sundance-spa-jets/sundance-spa-jet-faces-and-inserts/sundance-spa-heat-return-fitting-insert-gray Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary_C Posted February 19 Author Report Share Posted February 19 Mine is Sundance 850 Optima, mfg in 1999. The one you show definitely looks like it and matches based on spa date. So looks like the original fitting did thread on in same way to secure. That's good if I can dig out that much insulating foam and reach it from behind the electrical control box. I guess should purchase most all of those parts on that part of the page. I'll likely even break off the nut by the time I try to remove it all. Anyway, hopefully I can find the, in stock. Thank you VERY MUCH for all the info and especially for sharing that part manual. I have scoured the web and never seen that in the past. It would have saved me hours with past pump and related parts I have had to track down in previous years. Anyway, at least I know what I need to do to remove the old one and what to replace it with. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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