Need help with my PDC Danube and a recurring issue

[Steve21229]

Thank you in advance for any help you can provide.  The company that I originally bought my tub from won't work on it given the age and other local repair companies I have called either don't work on PDC spas or haven't gotten back to me.

 

I have a PDC Danube spa that originally had a BP1500 (240 V) spa pack in it.  The spa has one 2 speed pump (Waterway Executive 48) that is controlled by the "Jets" button (first low, then high) on the TP600 panel and a second 1 speed pump (also Waterway Executive 48) that is controlled by the "Aux" button on the TP600 panel.

I initially was having an issue where the two speed pump would run fine on low, but when switched to high it would get very loud, vibrate, then turn off.  Balboa said it sounded like an issue with the relay in the BP1500 so I bought a new spa pack, but the loud noise/vibration/shutoff still happened.  I then ended up getting a brand new Executive 48 pump, connected it, but the loud noise/vibration/shutoff still happened.  It was then suggested that I try yet another BP1500, which I tried to order and was sent a BP7 (240V).  Now with this totally different model of spa pack, the loud noise/vibration/shut off issue continues and I am at a loss since I now have a brand new pump and a brand new spa pack.

 

1) Looking at the programming information for the BP7, I see pumps 1-4, a circ pump, and a blower all discussed.  In my setup, what would my two pumps be considered and where should they be plugged in on the board (I suspect the 2 speed pump is pump #1 that plugs into J9 on the spa pack, but is my second pump considered pump #2, circ, or a blower)?

 

2) In terms of DIP switches, it seems like I only need A2 on ("Add 1 HS pump with heat")?

 

3) For programming, I know that Setup #21 is default, but that just lists 1 x 2 speed pump as pump #1.  It sounds like I need to rule out any of the setups with a 2 speed pump #2 since I don't have that.  But that then goes back to question #1 related to what exactly the 1 speed pump is called.

 

BP7 programming sheet is at https://www.balboawater.com/getdoc.cfm?id=2484

 

[RDspaguy]

Pump 2.

In their defense, I too would assume stuck relay first. I'd have had you test it, but then I'm a repair man not a parts supplier, so...

The chicken/egg scenario is real, in that you can have a bad pump or relay cause damage to the relay or pump. That's why I test stuff. That said, new control, then pump, then new control again should pretty much cover it. Not 100%, but you're into some pretty low odds. 

So, if it's not the controls and it's not the pump, it's either the wiring or a flow restriction. I'd still test the controls and pump independently, because that's what I do.

Unplug pump and test voltages at the board, black to white for low, red to white for high. Make sure low turns off when high is engaged and vice-versa.

Plug pump 1 into pump 2 plug and test.

Verify pump wiring is intact and correct.

I have not seen a PDC (plastics development corp I think, we called them "Piece of Damned Crap"😉🤣) in well over a decade and that one wasn't new by a long shot. Do they still have the equipment outside the cabinet under a "doghouse"?

Are the valves open?

Remove filters and look down the tube for debris (broken check-valve). Leave filters out for testing.

Close valves, remove pump, and open valves to verify good flow from the pipes. You will get wet.

Post results and pics.

 

[Steve21229]

Luckily my experience with the PDC hasn't lived up to that meaning, as it has been fine for 13 years now.

 

So my readings are strange. 

White and black at the initial connections = 122-123V

White and red at the initial connections = 122-123V

 

Pump 1 Black to white = .3 V low, 247 V high

Pump 1 Red to white = 247 V low, .1 V high

 

Wiring is correctly plugged into the spa pack (white to white, red to red, and black to black) and pump

 

Plugged pump 1 into Pump 2 and got the same results in terms of pump function.

[Steve21229]

Also, this is probably a long shot, but could there be an issue with the top side panel sending a weird signal to the control board?  It is the only thing that has remained constant through all of this.