Cal spa heater replacement needed?

[My.User.Name]

So this winter I came home to a blown out fitting on the pipe to/thru the heater (left side coming into heater box). I believe it was due to an "OH" error (which I've seen before & shuts the jacuzzi down) which shut the heater down, water froze, black clamp fitting busted, water drained out.

So yesterday I replaced the fitting, filled it & it fired up as normal, circulated & all seemed fine. BUT, the water never heated up. I checked all wires & fittings.

So does this seems like a heater issue? I can easily find the heater & replace myself, but I'm not 100% sure that's the most likely issue.

Thoughts? Thanks!

[CanadianSpaTech]

Disconnect the heater from the circuit board and using a multi meter test for power coming off the circuit board when the spa is calling for heat. If there is a heat indicator light on the topside it should be solid and not flickering when testing. If you get 240V it is an issue with the heater element. If you don't get 240V you have a different issue. Could be a bad pressure switch or a board issue. Some older Cal spas had suction safety sensors that were always a pain in the butt. Usually had blue plastic covers over them but can't see in the pic.

[My.User.Name]

On 4/19/2023 at 4:56 AM, CanadianSpaTech said:

Disconnect the heater from the circuit board and using a multi meter test for power coming off the circuit board when the spa is calling for heat. If there is a heat indicator light on the topside it should be solid and not flickering when testing. If you get 240V it is an issue with the heater element. If you don't get 240V you have a different issue. Could be a bad pressure switch or a board issue. Some older Cal spas had suction safety sensors that were always a pain in the butt. Usually had blue plastic covers over them but can't see in the pic.

Ok I'll try this & report back. I do have a blue plastic cap over a sensor on the out (right) side of the heater (see photo). I do not have a "heat indicator light" on my model on the panel.

Ps - should the heater box be hot/warm when doing it's job?

[CanadianSpaTech]

29 minutes ago, My.User.Name said:

Ps - should the heater box be hot/warm when doing it's job?

Not really it is wrapped in glass insulation in the box I think.

Ok so verify the pump #1 is running and flowing water as it should?

29 minutes ago, My.User.Name said:

I do not have a "heat indicator light" on my model on the panel

On the topside control on the left hand side it should say Heat ON and a little round light beside it. 

 

On 4/19/2023 at 6:56 AM, CanadianSpaTech said:

heat indicator light on the topside it should be solid and not flickering when testing.

Does it come on, flicker and then go solid? If it goes solid then test for 240V coming off the circuit board. Do you get 240?

 

[My.User.Name]

On 4/21/2023 at 5:16 PM, CanadianSpaTech said:

Not really it is wrapped in glass insulation in the box I think.

10-4. I wasn't sure as I'd never touched it when it worked.

On 4/21/2023 at 5:16 PM, CanadianSpaTech said:

Ok so verify the pump #1 is running and flowing water as it should?

All pumps seem to be running fine. Everything cycles. Jets, H20 flow, etc. Just no heat.

On 4/21/2023 at 5:16 PM, CanadianSpaTech said:

On the topside control on the left hand side it should say Heat ON and a little round light beside it. 

update: It DOES come on but it doesn't actually heat. It does not blink.

On 4/21/2023 at 5:16 PM, CanadianSpaTech said:

 

Does it come on, flicker and then go solid? If it goes solid then test for 240V coming off the circuit board. Do you get 240?

 

Testing the 2 bolts on the board that connect to the 2 wires to the heater I get 120v.

[My.User.Name]

On 4/19/2023 at 4:56 AM, CanadianSpaTech said:

Disconnect the heater from the circuit board and using a multi meter test for power coming off the circuit board when the spa is calling for heat. If there is a heat indicator light on the topside it should be solid and not flickering when testing. If you get 240V it is an issue with the heater element. If you don't get 240V you have a different issue. Could be a bad pressure switch or a board issue. Some older Cal spas had suction safety sensors that were always a pain in the butt. Usually had blue plastic covers over them but can't see in the pic.

Ok...

I tested the continuity on the pressure switch (black probe on black wire tab, red on red) while it's running & it shows 000 which I believe to mean it's fine (has continuity)? The pressure switch, if I push in the button on the pipe side of the switch, I hear a click on the board. As it is, the button on the pipe side is all the way out & the button on the wire side is touching it. I admit I originally turned this in more, & then back out but I'm not 100% sure im at the original starting point.

I probed the 2 heater connection points on the board while the system is running and I get 120v.

I do have a heater light, it comes on solid. Never blinks.

I do have a suction safety sensor & it does have a blue cap.

 

[CanadianSpaTech]

What is the black soot on "B" Where is the wire coming/going. If you only get 120V off the board and the heat light is on then you might have a blown heater relay and it looks like the soot is in that area on the board. Post better photos 

[My.User.Name]

38 minutes ago, CanadianSpaTech said:

What is the black soot on "B" Where is the wire coming/going. If you only get 120V off the board and the heat light is on then you might have a blown heater relay and it looks like the soot is in that area on the board. Post better photos 

Good eye!! And yes, I noticed the soot also but I don't know if it's been there or if it's new (it won't wipe off with a finger). It's obviously rising up from below the 2nd "B" bolt & that could have only come from that "heater relay" I suppose.

[CanadianSpaTech]

That's the issue. I would replace all the relays to freshen up the board. Also I never adjust pressure switches and always replace. They are factory set and don't like changing the operation of it. It protects the heater and you don't want the heater firing without proper flow being detected because it was adjusted one way or the other. 

[My.User.Name]

47 minutes ago, CanadianSpaTech said:

That's the issue. I would replace all the relays to freshen up the board. Also I never adjust pressure switches and always replace. They are factory set and don't like changing the operation of it. It protects the heater and you don't want the heater firing without proper flow being detected because it was adjusted one way or the other. 

Yikes. How sure of this are you? As that board is near $400. And, I don't see a way to replace the relays (let alone even find them 1 by 1) as they are soldered to the board.

And are you saying, now that I messed with the pressure switch I need to replace it?

[CanadianSpaTech]

3 hours ago, My.User.Name said:

Yikes. How sure of this are you?

99.9% The relay is fried. 

 

3 hours ago, My.User.Name said:

I don't see a way to replace the relays (let alone even find them 1 by 1) as they are soldered to the board.

Relays are around $15.. https://hottubpartsofamerica.com/copy-of-relay-zettler-t-90-type-spst-15vdc-coil-balboa-board/

Verify the attached link is the correct relay with seller before buying. I added the link as example.

I take my boards to a local electronics repair shop. At $400 for replacement board you might want to consider it. Not a bad price. 

3 hours ago, My.User.Name said:

And are you saying, now that I messed with the pressure switch I need to replace it?

That is up to you. Based on it's age and it has been adjusted an unknown amount up or down VS the cost of a pressure switch personally I would replace.

[My.User.Name]

6 minutes ago, CanadianSpaTech said:

99.9% The relay is fried. 

 

Relays are around $15.. https://hottubpartsofamerica.com/copy-of-relay-zettler-t-90-type-spst-15vdc-coil-balboa-board/

Verify the attached link is the correct relay with seller before buying. I added the link as example.

I take my boards to a local electronics repair shop. At $400 for replacement board you might want to consider it. Not a bad price. 

That is up to you. Based on it's age and it has been adjusted an unknown amount up or down VS the cost of a pressure switch personally I would replace.

Honestly, that board has a 2013 hand written date on it from the original owner (this jacuzzi came with the house I bought). So it looks like they did a switch 10 years ago (he dated all kinds of stuff around the house which is actually super helpful). 

Also, I actually found that my board - Balboa 52299 - has a replacement of Balboa 54091. I can find the 54091 cheaper than the exact board, likely due to availability.

SO... It might just make more sense to swap the entire board + also do the pressure switch since I have no way to factory rezero it.

I'm assuming on the pressure switch I'll have to shut the upstream valve gate 1st?

Thanks 👍

[CanadianSpaTech]

8 hours ago, My.User.Name said:

I'm assuming on the pressure switch I'll have to shut the upstream valve gate 1st?

and downstream... but they don't always work that great. I'm might back off the union right beside it to release the water pressure a bit so water is not squirting out while you try to remove/replace the switch. Use Teflon/plumbers tape.

[My.User.Name]

45 minutes ago, CanadianSpaTech said:

and downstream... but they don't always work that great. I'm might back off the union right beside it to release the water pressure a bit so water is not squirting out while you try to remove/replace the switch. Use Teflon/plumbers tape.

Ok, I'm on it I'll report back.

[My.User.Name]

On 5/2/2023 at 4:55 PM, CanadianSpaTech said:

That's the issue. 

You seem to have nailed it 👍

I replaced the board + the pressure switch & I'm now watching it heat up 😀

I'd love to know if you have an opinion as to how or why that relay burnt out?

**tech data for others: my unit takes a Circuit board 52199 which is no longer made & hard to find. The replacement is 52299 which is readily available but it's ±$400. A little research revealed that board 54091 would work & I found that for about $225 & that's what is running now. This board is nice as all of the relays are covered & not exposed.

[CanadianSpaTech]

1 hour ago, My.User.Name said:

I'd love to know if you have an opinion as to how or why that relay burnt out?

If you look at a relay internal you will see 2 contact pads and the relay is basically like a light switch on/off...open/close. Each time the contact pads connect and there is an electrical connection made. With an open relay you will often see them arc/spark. Think how many times that spa has called for heat over it's lifespan. The pads get pitted and wear out and the spring load also. Is a closed relay better... perhaps but an open relay I have been able to file and or unstick a stuck relay. To me potato potato. They are a wear item in a spa just like pump seals heater elements and o-rings.

Glad you were able to DIY it and get it going. Enjoy

[My.User.Name]

On 5/3/2023 at 5:21 AM, CanadianSpaTech said:

and downstream... but they don't always work that great. I'm might back off the union right beside it to release the water pressure a bit so water is not squirting out while you try to remove/replace the switch. Use Teflon/plumbers tape.

Ok, I'm up & running & at 104° for 24hrs now 👏

But 2x now I've seen the jacuzzi shut down with the "FL" pressure switch error. I just power cycle & everything clears & away I go.

Any ideas why this is happening with a brand new not adjusted or messed with factory pressure switch? 

[CanadianSpaTech]

Remove filter see if it stops happening

[My.User.Name]

1 minute ago, CanadianSpaTech said:

Remove filter see if it stops happening

That's what I did this morning when I say "FL" for the 2nd time (other was last night). I pulled it & cleaned it (with the special filter cleaner spray & a hose as I hadn't done it in a while & it was brownish icky). I'll report back if that works/doesn't.

[My.User.Name]

9 hours ago, CanadianSpaTech said:

Remove filter see if it stops happening

Well cleaning it didn't work and taking it out entirely didn't work. It lasted a little longer in time (it seemed like) after I took it out, but in the end, the "FL" error eventually comes on. I have a new one on the way anyway as it is old & they're cheap.

It seems odd as the "FL" error & shut down seems to line up with the end of the 2hr default warm & H20 cycling timer that triggers on a restart (which is the only way I can get past the error code). But I can't say that conclusively. Normally it should run the default 2hrs (or reach its temp), shut off, & run again as needed over & over. 

I'm not sure what to check or try next. If it runs & cycles & heats to my temp, could there be air in the system or something? I'm not sure what would allow for the system to act as though it's running properly & thru it's cycles, but yet give an "FL" error which implies h2o isn't flowing? But yet, it is. I'm clearly missing something.

[CanadianSpaTech]

Try disconnecting and or jumping the safety suctions. 

[My.User.Name]

41 minutes ago, CanadianSpaTech said:

Try disconnecting and or jumping the safety suctions. 

Is "disconnecting" the same as "jumping"? If not, I'm not sure how to "jump" it. 

[CanadianSpaTech]

21 minutes ago, My.User.Name said:

I'm not sure how to "jump" it. 

Connect the 2 wires together using a paper clip or sometimes you can interlock them. 

Try disconnecting first.

[My.User.Name]

7 minutes ago, CanadianSpaTech said:

Connect the 2 wires together using a paper clip or sometimes you can interlock them. 

Try disconnecting first.

It appears I have 2 of those (under blue covers?) 1 before & 1 after the the heater. Do that to both or just the one before or one after?

[CanadianSpaTech]

At this point try everything