RiverSherpa Posted May 24, 2021 Report Share Posted May 24, 2021 I have replaced a leaking LoFlo Heater on a 2014 Jacuzzi J-365 and on startup it won't get above 95. Heater light is on when temp set above 95 and turns off when set below 95. I checked voltage and have 240 across both lines. Also tested pressure switch by jumping the two pins and it behaves normally out. I also bled air on all the pumps (2 Jet Pumps and 1 Circulation Pump) to eliminate possibility of airlock. I removed filters to see if I have an issue there and still no change. I'm guessing I have a bad replacement heater or a bad temperature sensor. I have a brand new controller board, so I don't feel that it's going to be the heater relays. Any other possibilities? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanadianSpaTech Posted May 24, 2021 Report Share Posted May 24, 2021 40 minutes ago, RiverSherpa said: Heater light is on when temp set above 95 and turns off when set below 95. I checked voltage and have 240 across both lines Sounds like it is running normal to me. If you have 240 coming off the board I would disconnect the heater and test it for continuity. Be very careful jumping the flow switch on those low flow heaters they will get nuclear hot in a fraction of a second. Post photos of the new circuit board so we can see how you have it set up and the schematic on the inside cover. Can you see the flow switch and if there is... first flow and then are there any air bubbles in the housing. Have you verified the flow switch is in the correct way with the flow of water pushing the toggle up against the post. Were you getting 240 v with the flow switch jumpered or with the flow switch connected as it should be? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RiverSherpa Posted May 28, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 28, 2021 I will test the Heater for Continuity. I installed a new flow switch the correct direction and it appears to be working properly. No Flow Error codes and I can see the water flow is closing the circuit. I think it's the new heater. It is a bit different than the old one as it has a reset button on the back. The button does not have any pressure to it as it just kind of slides in and out. I have tried to push it in, but it seems to get to a certain point and stop with any clicking or mechanical response. There wasn't much in the way of documentation on the external reset button, but I am guessing I should be able to push it in and get a clicking response where it holds in place and no longer slides in and out. Any thoughts on the reset button. I will grab some pics tomorrow in the day light and post them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RiverSherpa Posted May 29, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 29, 2021 Continuity test on the new LoFlo heater failed. I pulled the heater and opened it up. Looks like one of the leads burned right through and fried the wiring. It looks like this lead contact points were touching, which would have created an arc. There is some melting of the right post, so the contacts may have ended up in that position after the right post heated up. Only other thing I suspect is a faulting heater that melted the right post that then moved it into a connection position with the left post creating the arc and frying the wire. At any rate, I am lucky my Hot Tub didn't go up in flames. I have a new heater on order. **** NOTE: POWER OFF AND FUZE REMOVED ****. J9 and J10 are 240 Hot to the Heater. Green Wire is properly connected to the Bar at Bottom of Pack. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanadianSpaTech Posted May 29, 2021 Report Share Posted May 29, 2021 Did it get fired up with the flow switch jumpered and no water in the tube or water flow flowing through it? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RiverSherpa Posted June 5, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2021 I had the tub fully loaded and the circulation pump was running. I might have had an airlock that allowed the heater to get hot with no water moving through. That would account for the left post melting and moving towards the other terminal eventually arcing 240v in there. I installed the new heater, loaded the tub, turned the temp all the way down and ran a circulation cycle before upping the heat. Seem to be working good. After a couple hours at 104 the tub went into Watchdog Mode, so now I get to replace the temperature sensor. I have replaced almost every part in the front of that tub in the last month. Good times! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanadianSpaTech Posted June 5, 2021 Report Share Posted June 5, 2021 The hi limit sensor is mounted /attached to the heater tube. Did you cook it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miguel Posted August 26, 2022 Report Share Posted August 26, 2022 This looks just like my jacuzzi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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