luey123 Posted August 22, 2014 Report Share Posted August 22, 2014 I have an 8' in-deck redwood hot tub that I've recently refurbed including plumbing, all components and equipment along with new electrical wiring professionally done. I've had no luck with the supplier of my equipment as to my problem and so am asking for help here. I have a stand alone 14k heater that is supplied power via a separate contactor and not the controller. It has it's own pressure and overheat switch in addition to the controller wiring for a duplicate p switch and sensor. Presently there is no connection/interface between my controller and heater as the controller p switch wires are shunted together to fool the controller. I've adjusted the p sw. in the heater to adjust for the increased pressure due to tub being above pak. I have about 3 or 4 lbs of pressure with pump off. Problem is:: Overheat switch is kicking out on heater unless I keep filtration on constantly. Is there a way to let these switches operate in synch or wire controller directly to heater? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr. Spa Posted August 22, 2014 Report Share Posted August 22, 2014 Maybe, probably, perhaps, perhaps not. It might be helpful to know what you actually have. Brands, models etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luey123 Posted August 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 22, 2014 Man, way to shred a newbie. Feel better? I didn't know equipment could vary so much in a pretty basic layout. Controller is a United C5 stand alone with T7 topside control. Heater is a 14.4k Raypak. All I know about the setup electrically is that a separate contactor was needed for the heater. I have a topside cutoff and two breakers in the panel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PreservedSwine Posted August 22, 2014 Report Share Posted August 22, 2014 If the high limit is kicking, the heater is energizing when there is no flow. I think the pressure switch on the heater its is out of calibration. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luey123 Posted August 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 23, 2014 I have adjusted it and may still need more calibration but I'm bothered by the shunted pressure leads from the controller and unused hi limit probe. Is this separate contactor for the free standing heater a commonly used config? It's done to save amp draw on the controller I believe but is it Kosher? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PreservedSwine Posted August 23, 2014 Report Share Posted August 23, 2014 The pressure leads, and high limit on the controller are unimportant- the heater is a stand-alone heater, with it's own pressure switch, and it's own high limit. The pressure switch on the heater is clearly not calibrated properly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luey123 Posted August 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 23, 2014 Got it. Thank you. The thumb wheel on the built in switch is ungodly stiff. The slight movement of it did not sway the ohm meter much then it would go nuts. Back and forth with no real feel for the sweet spot. It is new too. I followed some fairly good instructions for adjusting it found on a site until the last couple steps when clarity left the procedure. I will look for related mat'l here as to proper adj without power. I aint goin in WITH... Thank you kindly. Much appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PreservedSwine Posted August 23, 2014 Report Share Posted August 23, 2014 No problem- adjusting the pressure switch should be simple with a meter. Disconnect one of the pressure switch leads for testing, or your meter may be sensitive enough pick up continuity through one of the relay coils behind the pressure switch. Be sure the meter is OL (Open Line, no continuity) across the pressure switch terminals when the pump is off. and no resistance when the pump is on. Err on the side of caution, ie, tighten it up as much as you can, while still getting continuity, with the pump running, so that it goes to no continuity when the pump is off. The wheel may have a lock on it if it's really hard to turn- look for a prong, or tab that's preventing it from turning, and either remove, or slide, depending on the lock (if it exists) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luey123 Posted August 31, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 31, 2014 I have had success this time around with the pressure switch adjustment and am very thankful for the mentoring. I had an experience related when it dropped to 45 degrees here in MT the other night and I awoke to an "FR" readout on my topside control. The cause evidently was the unused high temp probe from the controller also governs freeze protection (news to me) and being disconnected from anything, picked up the ambient temp and kicked her into freeze protection mode. I taped it to some of the pvc plumbing to reflect water temp to the controller but wonder WHAT I SHOULD REALLY DO WITH IT along with the unused pressure switch wires coming from the controller. Granted, I have both protections active separately in the heater but is it OK to shunt the unused pr sw wires together and leave the high temp probe taped to piping the way I have it now? We are enjoying the new rebuild a lot. It is 1200-1300 hundred gallons and we purposely left the furniture and/or any obstacles out of the mix. It is very nice all opened up.... an 8 foot pool about 40 inches deep. We now have to insulate the 10 x 10 pool house and pedestal below as well as flash the topside under the deck to shed the water away from the walls below. Call in engineering please!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PreservedSwine Posted August 31, 2014 Report Share Posted August 31, 2014 You're stuck, because the installer ordered equip, that while it works, is not suited to use with a separate heater... without some creative adjustments. Don't worry about shunting the controller leads, and the slightly misplaced temp probe- all that logic is redundant- the heater controls those things now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luey123 Posted August 31, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 31, 2014 Thank you. Duly and sadly noted. We experienced other issues with our supplier too. We were very thankful to have their (the only) internet illustrated guide to relining/rebuilding an old redwood tub on the net but the thanks we showed by ordering the liner and equipment from them was misplaced. It's a damn shame since we were ordering new, starting from scratch and asked for their "Professional" advice in selecting everything. I have some other questions and need for input but am going to post a new topic. Thanks again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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