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Ph/alkalinity Down Bad For Ace Salt Water Cell?


h20love

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We have a HS Vista with the ACE Saltwater Sanitizing system. We purchased both last March. I've seen many posts about the frustration of having the cell go out and we are on our third one in less than a year. The tech who came out to replace the cell said NOT to use ph/Alkalinity down to clean the cell because it will destroy it. We've cleaned our cell with the ph/Alkalinity down in the past, following the directions on the Cell Cleaning Bottle provided by ACE. Our service tech replaced our cell and didn't charge us for a service call, thankfully. He also wrote the instruction on the receipt not to use ph/Alkalinity down, so I don't think he's just pulling this info out of his arse. Has anyone else heard about this? How do we clean our cell in the future, assuming it lasts long enough to need to be cleaned again (ooooh, low blow I know, but we paid alot of money for this thing).

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I'm not sure why he would have told you that, he must be assuming that was the cause of your past problem but I don't see that as the case. The reality is you have to use PH down (or muriatic acid per the instructions) to remove the calcium buildup which your Ace manual spells out. In fact if you don't clean it in that manner you'll build up excess scale over time which causes the cell to work harder to try to generate chlorine which can affect its overall life.

It might be best in your case to call Watkins customer service at 800-999-4688 X 8432 which will undoubtedly tell you the same thing I just did. Then I would let your dealer know what the tech told you and that the factory told you otherwise.

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I actually have heard what the OP and his tech is saying as well. I did some training last year with a compay calle Pristivia. The make a special kind of salt for swimming pool salt systems. Anyways, to sell their salt, they require the dealers to take a training on salt systems and salt in gerenral. I dont remember the exact reason, but it said in there training to specifically not to use pH decreaser in conjuction with salt walter. If I recall correctly, it had to do with mabye sulfates in the pH decreaser being hard on the salt cells. So, ever since then, I have never recommened pH decreaser with salt cells. I will do some looking back on notes to see if I can find the exact reason why Pristivia said that.

One other thing of note, I also noticed that in the Pentail Intelili Chlor salt cell owners manual, it specifically says to use Muriatic acid to lower pH and not pH decreaser.

Ok, last note, when back to Pristivas website, and here is what it said in regards to pH decreaser:

"When it comes to pH reducers, current providers such as Mineral Springs Renewal® add sulfates which can create some very problematic scale."

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Out in the field we use muriatic acid to clean salt cells. I have not looked into what the problem with using PH down is but the chemical in PH down is 'SODIUM Bisulfate' and maybe that reacts with the salt already in the system in a negative way.

We have always been told to use liquid acid but other than that I am not sure what the issue is with it but I know plenty of people who probably do and will look into it.

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Thanks for the thoughtful comments and recommendations. We have contacted Watkins, who advised us to follow the manual instructions, which says to use ph/alkalinity down, although it also says muriatic acid may be used as substitute. I appreciate any input from anyone who can find out more about it. We enjoy our Hot Spring Vista very much. It seems to me, however, that there are quite a few more bugs to work out in the ACE salt water system and we probably would not have purchased it yet had we known how much trouble it would be (the salt water system, NOT the hot tub!).

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It is true that using dry acid, which is sodium bisulfate, increases sulfates and they can be a problem for some electrolytic cells as well as plaster surfaces (if the sulfate level gets very high). Muriatic Acid (31.45% Hydrochloric Acid) is better to use, though should be diluted per the instructions.

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It is true that using dry acid, which is sodium bisulfate, increases sulfates and they can be a problem for some electrolytic cells as well as plaster surfaces (if the sulfate level gets very high). Muriatic Acid (31.45% Hydrochloric Acid) is better to use, though should be diluted per the instructions.

31.45%. strange number ;-)

Any reason?

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  • 1 year later...

Use muriatic acid. I'm a chemical engineer, and specialize in water treatment. We always use muriatic acid to clean scale from instruments in the field. Dilute to about 5%. Sulphates can cause scaling, so it doesn't make any sense to use that.

I would use muriatic acid to lower pH in the hot tub as well.

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