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How Does Your Cover Seal?


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Just curious how other people's covers seal to there tubs. As most of the heat is lost through the top of a tub I am looking for ways to improve energy efficiency. I pay .38 cents a KWH to heat my tub in California. On my tub I can see some of the rounded corners are not level, thus preventing a tight seal.

I currently use a blue solar cover which helps allot. I use this when I am soaking in the tub by myself and it keeps the temp 2-3 deg. warmer. If I take this cover off the steam really rolls out of the tub, I would guess this helps to keep 70% of the steam/heat in the water. In addition to this I was planing to use one of the 1/4 inch foam blankets such as you see and RHtubs. Both of these would be cut to fit the waterline. To help with the seal around the perimeter of the acrylic I was thinking of placing another foam blanket over the tub that would hang over the sides and hopefully seal the gaps between the acrylic and the cover.

Do you think this would work. What do other energy misers do out there.

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Just curious how other people's covers seal to there tubs. As most of the heat is lost through the top of a tub I am looking for ways to improve energy efficiency. I pay .38 cents a KWH to heat my tub in California. On my tub I can see some of the rounded corners are not level, thus preventing a tight seal.

I currently use a blue solar cover which helps allot. I use this when I am soaking in the tub by myself and it keeps the temp 2-3 deg. warmer. If I take this cover off the steam really rolls out of the tub, I would guess this helps to keep 70% of the steam/heat in the water. In addition to this I was planing to use one of the 1/4 inch foam blankets such as you see and RHtubs. Both of these would be cut to fit the waterline. To help with the seal around the perimeter of the acrylic I was thinking of placing another foam blanket over the tub that would hang over the sides and hopefully seal the gaps between the acrylic and the cover.

Do you think this would work. What do other energy misers do out there.

I love this thread. I hope we get some good ideas flowing. I am also in California and subject to ridiculous electric bills (mine is averaging over $300/mo now). However, I think my top tier is a mere $.31/kwh.

I purchased an infrared temperature sensor gun at my local Harbor Freight Tools ($26). It definitely shows heat leakage all along the cover hinge. In fact, on a cool night, with a flashlight I can see steam escaping the edge of the hinge. My cover has the small pads on the hinge ends (not the continuous type that goes all the way across). I do have a Covermate 3 lifter which has a small diameter rod (about 3/16" that slides into the hinge from each side and goes into the hinge about a foot or so). There is some tension due to the lifter that MIGHT be causing some leakage there. But, if I push down on it, it doesn't seem to improve it any. So, the jury is out on that.

I would be interested in using a solar blanket or something inside the spa to mitigate the heat loss if it doesn't cause more issues. I use a bromine floater. I assume a blanket floating on the water would affect the bromine floater. Any suggestions there?

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I have been using a thermal blanket for 3 weeks now. It always stays on unless I am shocking. It's hard for me to relax while soaking while I see .38cent KWH rolling off the top of the water. Water quality had not been affected by the blanket. I use 3 step bromide, maybe chlorine would be a problem since it off gasses more? My water is crystal clear. I don't even use claifiers.

Let's here more from others

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I have been using a thermal blanket for 3 weeks now. It always stays on unless I am shocking. It's hard for me to relax while soaking while I see .38cent KWH rolling off the top of the water. Water quality had not been affected by the blanket. I use 3 step bromide, maybe chlorine would be a problem since it off gasses more? My water is crystal clear. I don't even use claifiers.

Let's here more from others

I too am in Calif. (East Bay). I run my spa in Econ mode because it really doesn't get that cold. In Econ mode the heater only comes on during the filter cycle. I have the filter cycle set for 2Hrs. out of 12. I found that I usually take a soak about the same time in the evening. I then set the filter cycle to come on about 30 to 45 mins. before I get in and turn off about 30 to 45 mins. after I get out. Don't know if it saves anything but at least I am taking advantage of the filter and heating cycle.

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My standard Caldera cover has a short skirt that runs around it that makes up for any gaps, except at the hinge. It snowed here Friday and I still have a couple of inches of snow on the cover, I'd say it works pretty well.

Dave

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My standard Caldera cover has a short skirt that runs around it that makes up for any gaps, except at the hinge. It snowed here Friday and I still have a couple of inches of snow on the cover, I'd say it works pretty well.

Dave

My POS cover held 2 inches of snow on yesterday too. But the seam didn't keep any accumulation, too warm. Strong sent me a new cover liner (taking on water from the top ... rain) just haven't had the opportunity to install yet. However my cover does seal, but with the same caveat, the skirt makes up for gaps.

DK117

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My standard Caldera cover has a short skirt that runs around it that makes up for any gaps, except at the hinge. It snowed here Friday and I still have a couple of inches of snow on the cover, I'd say it works pretty well.

Dave

My POS cover held 2 inches of snow on yesterday too. But the seam didn't keep any accumulation, too warm. Strong sent me a new cover liner (taking on water from the top ... rain) just haven't had the opportunity to install yet. However my cover does seal, but with the same caveat, the skirt makes up for gaps.

DK117

It is a bummer to see the heat escaping from the spa for those of us who are trying to keep our investment dollars to the power companies at a reasonable level. I know for a fact how some of the standard spa covers are performing because I am actually comparing them against a new roll up style cover on metered identical spas side-by-side in the exact same environment. The seal on the spa bartop is just as important as the seal on a refrigerator door, the bottom of the cover needs to lay flat on the bartop. The hinge area follows closely as a critical heat loss area. A continous seal along the entire hinge helps greatly. The new 'rollupspacover' seals along the bartop (even the uneven ones) and doesn't have a hinge where heat can escape. So far there aren't any mind boggling cost of operation differences, but it has been fun so far to actually find out what really works. The floating cover is on my test list for those who are really penny-pinching. I used to use one and I am sure it made a difference, but it wasn't worth it to me to mess with the thing. I will eventually have enough data to share in about 2 months.

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One thing...

When a hot tub is running it is injecting air into the tub, through the venturi's and or the ozone at least. Therefore air must escape, If your cover is nice and uniformly tight you get the illusion of a sealed tub because you dont see the wisps of steam from the seam.

But the air is still escaping as it must.

The heat loss through a good 5" cover is pretty minimal (snow does not melt on mine, in fact it is the first place it begins to accumulate)...

I saw a interesting cover from a company called Sunwest in Oregon.

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