Calibrating Salt Sensor

[jbiker1950]

Is there any way to calibrate the salt sensor in a Aqua Logic system? I constantly get differing levels from one day to the next.

As much as 400 ppm. The cell has been cleaned and tested good. the system is about 3 yrs old.

[ps558]

Is there any way to calibrate the salt sensor in a Aqua Logic system? I constantly get differing levels from one day to the next.

As much as 400 ppm. The cell has been cleaned and tested good. the system is about 3 yrs old.

Were are taking readings from? The main display is a average of all different times. Pres the button until a negative sign then a number comes up after the pump been running for a while. This is instanst reading

[Mark]

There is no true calibration with Aqualogic, the only thing you can do as PS558 pointed out is to replace the average salt reading with the instantaneous salt reading.

Mine usually stays within +- 100 ppm but 400 is a bit much. Stupid question I know but did you add any salt in the past couple of days? It can take some time to full mix.

[jbiker1950]

The water sample is always off kilter with the Aqua logic. I test it with a tds salt meter and have had the same sample tested by 2 different pool stores both with good reps.

We meaning the pool stores and I are always around 100 to 50 ppms the same while the instant check is way off. No salt has been added in 6 weeks.

It always seems to be running to the low side. I show 3400 and it tells me 2700-2800 been doing this for a cpl months. Goldline no help. I don't want to add salt since the samples tell me it has enough.

I just want to be sure it can operate like this without damaging the cell.

thanks chris

[Mark]

I have found my unit matches the Taylor drop kit within 100 ppm or so while the test strips tend to read 400 ppm higher. So I don't trust the test strips anymore. Some pool stores will use the strips instead of the TDS conductivity tests so I wouldn't trust those measurements either.

But the bottom line is that if the unit is not in an error condition of too high salt or too low salt, then it should be fine. It really doesn't matter that much what the "true" salt level is only what the unit thinks it is and that the amps level is within operating bounds (i.e. no errors).

[jbiker1950]

Ok, but wouldn't the cell get damaged if it got too low or high regardless of what the equipment thinks. This also had the "no cell power " problem.

Thanks again for all the help.

Chris

[Mark]

The cell really can't get damaged because the unit makes sure the amps level feeding the cell is correct. In reality, the unit doesn't care at all about salt level, it monitors amps, volts and water temperature. These values are then used to calculate a salt level which is displayed. As long as the amps is in the proper range, the unit will produce chlorine and the cell will not be damaged.

Cell life is usually measured in amp-hours so this does not change much over different salt levels. The higher the salt level the higher the amps and the more chlorine is generated so the less it needs to be run. Visa versa for lower salt levels. So basically, the amp-hours is about the same for the upper and lower ranges of salt levels and therefore about the same cell life.

When a cell ages and starts to degrade, the resistance of the cell increases and the amps drops. In this case, the salt level will start to read lower even though it may not be. However, you can usually compensate for a degrading cell by running at higher salt levels. Again, what is important is that the cell is operating within the proper amps range. So if there is no error, everything is fine.

[jbiker1950]

Great. So long as the system thinks the level is within its parameters its good to go.

Thanks you made my life a lot easier.

Chris

[txpoolguy]

Goldline will tell you that variances of up to 400ppm are normal. This goes to other issues in the water that can't be easily measured or identified. If you get a variance of 500, have it checked out. As mentioned above, test kits also vary. I often recommend having 3 independent tests done. Whichever two are closest, is the most accurate measurement.

[Pool Clown]

Did not see if you had reset the average salt reading with an instant reading as 558 advised. How close is that reading? (press diag button 5 times to get true or "instant" salt reading)

[jbiker1950]

I did the instant salt reading yesterday and it was at 3000 so i'm going with that.

I will use that in the future to determine if I need to add salt or not.

Thanks again

chris

[Pool Clown]

I did the instant salt reading yesterday and it was at 3000 so i'm going with that.

I will use that in the future to determine if I need to add salt or not.

Thanks again

chris

Chris,

Something else to consider...

Salt (in a pool) is a dissolved solid.

Salt may or may not be the only dissolved solid in the pool.

Therefore, when you have a reading taken with a TDS meter, your getting a report of all dissolved solids in the pool.

It is best to have your water tested with a salinity meter to get a (true?) reading.

Here is a tester that Goldline offers. It will set you back about 1 Benjamin.

I have not read this whole thread, so i don't know if you have been told this:

To lock in the instant salt reading

Unit must be on (auto)

Push diag button 5 times.

while this number is displayed, move the on/ off switch from auto to super chlor then back to auto.

The manual will only show you to do it once, But my experience has been (in some cases) that you may have to do it twice or maybe 3 times to get the unit to report the same level as the instant reading.

[quantumchromodynamics]

The Taylor K-1766 is also a good choice for determining an accurate salinity.

[ps558]

The Taylor K-1766 is also a good choice for determining an accurate salinity.

I have this tester and am very pleased with it

http://www.premiumaquatics.com/Merchant2/m...p;Store_Code=PA

[Pool Clown]

The Taylor K-1766 is also a good choice for determining an accurate salinity.

I am sure that is a fine tester, but i'm lazy. Take off the cap, turn it on, and dip it in the water. That may take about 3 sec.

[jbiker1950]

I did the instant salt reading yesterday and it was at 3000 so i'm going with that.

I will use that in the future to determine if I need to add salt or not.

Thanks again

chris

Chris,

Something else to consider...

Salt (in a pool) is a dissolved solid.

Salt may or may not be the only dissolved solid in the pool.

Therefore, when you have a reading taken with a TDS meter, your getting a report of all dissolved solids in the pool.

It is best to have your water tested with a salinity meter to get a (true?) reading.

Here is a tester that Goldline offers. It will set you back about 1 Benjamin.

I have not read this whole thread, so i don't know if you have been told this:

To lock in the instant salt reading

Unit must be on (auto)

Push diag button 5 times.

while this number is displayed, move the on/ off switch from auto to super chlor then back to auto.

The manual will only show you to do it once, But my experience has been (in some cases) that you may have to do it twice or maybe 3 times to get the unit to report the same level as the instant reading.

Is the lock in salt reading you are describing for an Aqua Rite? I am using the Aqua Logic.

I should have said I am using the Tracer pocket tester that PS558 mentioned which i believe can test for tds and salinity.

Thanks Chris

[Pool Clown]

Is the lock in salt reading you are describing for an Aqua Rite?

Yes it is.

I am using the Aqua Logic.

For Aqua Logic: While the instant salt reading is displayed, Press the "+" to load instant salt into the averaged salt display.

I should have said I am using the Tracer pocket tester that PS558 mentioned which i believe can test for tds and salinity.

Carry on.