What Bromine Levels To Maintain With Spa Frog + Ozonator?

[mscdman]

I just purchased a used marquis mirage spa. I have been doing my homework, and chose the spa frog floating feeder system. Here is my question: The spa frog system says when you use the frog spa system that you can maintain bromine levels of 1-2ppm, but what about the levels of bromine when using the spa frog WITH the ozonator? Are the levels even less that 1-2ppm? What levels would you keep in this situation?

[WaterBeast]

I just purchased a used marquis mirage spa. I have been doing my homework, and chose the spa frog floating feeder system. Here is my question: The spa frog system says when you use the frog spa system that you can maintain bromine levels of 1-2ppm, but what about the levels of bromine when using the spa frog WITH the ozonator? Are the levels even less that 1-2ppm? What levels would you keep in this situation?

I have a relatively new Emerald spa (280 gal) with integrated spa frog bromine/mineral cartridge and ozonator. Note the integrated unit is not the same as the floater, but I'm pretty sure the cartridges are the same. After doing lots of research and experimenting I decided that all this stuff about trying to reduce the bromine to the lowest conceivable level was a bunch of marketing BS used by mineral product sellers to create a sense of value and differentiation with their products -- IMHO this is not in a consumer's best interest.

Here's my strategy:

I have 2 users.

I tryy maintain bromine at 3-4ppm - just like I would if I had no spa frog or ozonator. Mine may range from 2-6ppm, but I'm happiest at 4. Periodically measure bromine when you exit. I like to see 1.5ppm of higher on exit, then I know that I'm not sitting in an unsanitized tub. When I (briefly) maintained levels per spa frog recommendations, I would measure 0ppm bromine on exit. Perhaps you may be comfortable with this, I am not.

The ozone helps recharge the bromine, and oxidize organics, but it is not a sanitizer.

The silver in the spa frog mineral cartridge *helps* sanitize, but is not a qualified sanitizer and is too slow acting to be relevant when I'm sitting in the tub. I think of this as a slow-acting backup policy which is useful if the bromine swung low when I'm travelling or something. If I'm around, and especiaially if I'm using the tub, I'm actively managing the tub water.

I run the mineral cartridge at 6 (I replace after 4 months per instructions), with and a not-too-old bromine cartridge at 0. When the bromine level falls below 2 ppm I open it up to 1. Given that I have water being forced around the cartridges during the 2 daily 1 hour filter/recirc cycles, and you are using a floater, I imagine your bromine setting may be different. You can always open up the setting and manually shake some bromine in the water if the bromine level falls too low, or add some of the powdered bromine you should be keeping for establishign an initial bromide bank/reserve after a water change.

I shock with MPS weekly, 1-2 TBS depending on use. Often I shock with a 1 tsp MPS after each use. Measured bromine levels (I use the Taylor K-2106 kit) soar after this, and gradually fall over the next 1-3 days to normal levels.

I have not noticed any adverse effects, smells, etc. with this approach. I have never had cloudy water or 'itch'.

I hope this helps.

Beastly

[WaterBeast]

One other thought - I would definitely do a decontamination / flush process with a used tub. No telling how effectively the previous owner managed it and you could have a biofilm of nasties waiting for you to get slack in your sanitization procedures.

Waterbeast

[mscdman]

Thanks so much guys! Question though: how do you do a decontamintion flush?

[WaterBeast]

Thanks so much guys! Question though: how do you do a decontamintion flush?

Here's what I do:

Clean waterline - I have used "CleanAll"

Fill tub to well above normal level

Add a Spa Flush product - I have used "Spa System Flush", run all pumps, let sit overnight, run pumps more

Power off, Drain, sponge out water as best you can

Clean tub surface - I have used "CleanAll", rinse, re-drain/sponge out water

Clean inside of spa cover

Refill to recommended level

Be sure to use a bromine startup procedure, normalizing your water chemisty (CH, pH, TA), establishing a bromide bank as quickly as possible, and shocking to oxidize contaminants and activate the bromine. Now your floater is used for day to day sanitation.

Do youself a favor, buy a Taylor K-2106 test kit up front, read the booklet and maintain your water chemistry. I could have bought a kit right off the bat for all the time, money and frustration I wasted on test strips.

Reading old posts, and asking questions on this forum is priceless!

WaterBeast.

[WaterBeast]

One more thought: I would replace the filter just to be on the safe side. Buy at least 2 filters and some filter cleaner. Plenty of posts on the forum regarding this.

Waterbeast

[mscdman]

Thanks waterbeast. I didn't flush the system....but.....once drained I lysoled the whole tub, bought a new filter, spa glossed it and then followed normal start up procedures..I havnet been in the tub yet, but the bromine levels look good and I shocked it.

I will look into that test kit. I bought the aqua check test strips, but I could see how that would get expensive.

I should have checked the forumn first, but thanks

[WaterBeast]

Don't worry about it. Just maintain proper sanitization levels and do it on your next water change.

The strips basically work, they just annoy me as I want more precision and confidence.

Chris