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Ch Down To "0"... How Much Of A Problem?


Vermonter

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Well, the topic title pretty much summed it up... as some of you may remember (Hillbilly, Richard), I was having a problem with my Calcium precipitating out after adding a pH stabilizer (never again!)... It was at 40 a few weeks ago, but I tested it again today, and it was at 0 (drop-based kit, titration-type) My question is, is this going to do any damage to my spa? Should I drain and refill? I'm not scheduled for a refill until August, and would love not to have to do it early... what do you guys think?

Tony

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Tony,

I would not have zero Calcium Hardness. Though full levels of saturation of calcium carbonate are not required in pools or spas with no exposed plaster/gunite/grout, nevertheless water with zero hardness could still be a problem. I don't have absolute proof of that except from what is discussed on some corrosion websites, but I wouldn't take the chance just in case there are exposed ceramics in pumps that might be affected (Hillbilly Hot Tub has mentioned that before). Since 100 ppm CH helps to prevent foaming problems, that's a decent target for Calcium Hardness and isn't so high as to cause scaling issues. That's my opinion.

Richard

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I was afraid of that.... well, perhaps I'll buy some more Hardness Increaser, and give it one more go, but I'm pretty sure the stupid pH Stabilizer I used is going to prevent me from increasing it without refilling... damn it. Well, thanks again and as usual for the advice....

Tony

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I was afraid of that.... well, perhaps I'll buy some more Hardness Increaser, and give it one more go, but I'm pretty sure the stupid pH Stabilizer I used is going to prevent me from increasing it without refilling... damn it. Well, thanks again and as usual for the advice....

Tony

I agree with Richard. I would also suggest as a precaution to use swirl away before you drain. This way if there still is any of the scaling gunk left in the lines orjets or heater, it will help remove it. You may also want to try spa defender on refill as added precaution. (I have gone through this before!)

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I was afraid of that.... well, perhaps I'll buy some more Hardness Increaser, and give it one more go, but I'm pretty sure the stupid pH Stabilizer I used is going to prevent me from increasing it without refilling... damn it. Well, thanks again and as usual for the advice....

Tony

I agree with Richard. I would also suggest as a precaution to use swirl away before you drain. This way if there still is any of the scaling gunk left in the lines orjets or heater, it will help remove it. You may also want to try spa defender on refill as added precaution. (I have gone through this before!)

Okay, I have already ordered some Swirl Away (as per your previous advice), but what is this Spa Defender you speak of? And how important is it since I've already place my order? :)

Tony

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I was afraid of that.... well, perhaps I'll buy some more Hardness Increaser, and give it one more go, but I'm pretty sure the stupid pH Stabilizer I used is going to prevent me from increasing it without refilling... damn it. Well, thanks again and as usual for the advice....

Tony

I agree with Richard. I would also suggest as a precaution to use swirl away before you drain. This way if there still is any of the scaling gunk left in the lines orjets or heater, it will help remove it. You may also want to try spa defender on refill as added precaution. (I have gone through this before!)

Okay, I have already ordered some Swirl Away (as per your previous advice), but what is this Spa Defender you speak of? And how important is it since I've already place my order? :)

Tony

Okay, never mind, I've Googled it and figured it out myself (should have thought of that in the first place, sorry for wasting your time!) But, I guess, the question still remains: since I have very soft water to begin with, and the mineral content of my water seems to be very low (or else the prefilter that came with my spa is working very well), how important is it? (say, on a scale of 1 to 10) Thanks again!

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Calcium chloride isn't expensive and the quantity for spas is small. It'd be safer to have 50 ppm CH and to avoid foaming 100 ppm CH would be better. This isn't one of those definitive things, unfortunately. If it were a plaster/gunite pool or a spa with grout in tile exposed to the water, then that would be critical but zero or near-zero hardness is pretty extreme.

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