Buckster Posted February 26, 2008 Report Share Posted February 26, 2008 Man, had someone fix my hot tub and I think they did a pretty crazy wiring job. I had a guy rebuild my tribend no-fault 6000 heater. It all worked for about a month and now one of the wires on the heater relay panel fried in half. Anyone know if these can be replaced. It seems like they could be, they unplug very easily fronm the panel; it's only 2 black boxes. If I can figure out how to post a pic I will. The dealer says I need a new board/panel for 550 bucks. Right now everything els works just no heater. Also, if I do need another heater, the dealer wants 465$. Do you guys have any other suggestions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chas Posted February 26, 2008 Report Share Posted February 26, 2008 one of the wires on the heater relay panel fried in half. Anyone know if these can be replaced. Also, if I do need another heater, the dealer wants 465$. Do you guys have any other suggestions? Did you get your dealer mad at you somehow? Or do you live in the UK? Yes, the heater relays are on a board by themselves. If that is all you need to replace - and that is exactly WHY HS put them on their own board BTW - then you can replace just the Heater Realy Board. As to 'rebuilding your tribend heater' I am interested to hear what was done. I didn't know they could even be opened, let alone rebuilt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan.The.Spa.Man Posted February 26, 2008 Report Share Posted February 26, 2008 Man, had someone fix my hot tub and I think they did a pretty crazy wiring job. I had a guy rebuild my tribend no-fault 6000 heater. It all worked for about a month and now one of the wires on the heater relay panel fried in half. Anyone know if these can be replaced. It seems like they could be, they unplug very easily fronm the panel; it's only 2 black boxes. If I can figure out how to post a pic I will. The dealer says I need a new board/panel for 550 bucks. Right now everything els works just no heater. Also, if I do need another heater, the dealer wants 465$. Do you guys have any other suggestions? Is it just the wire that is fried in half? If so you can just buy some wire, put 2 flag terminals on it, and reconnect it to the relays. If the relay is cooked, you can just replace the relay itself. If the tub is a 1997, you should have an IQ 2000 control box, which has individual relays, not an entire 'relay board'. Even before you fix the wire/relay problem, you can test the heater for continuity with a meter to see if it's good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buckster Posted February 27, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 27, 2008 Nope, didn't make the dealer mad . I took them a pic of what I had and they told me I should replace both relays. They also told me that those relays are not available so I will need to update my control board for 550 dollars. And the heater upgrade would be 465. Yes, I do have the IQ2000. Also, I do have a fluke 77 just don't know how to check continuity. If the heater is bad, I may just consider a new balboa pack. appreciate the help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buckster Posted February 27, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 27, 2008 one of the wires on the heater relay panel fried in half. Anyone know if these can be replaced. Also, if I do need another heater, the dealer wants 465$. Do you guys have any other suggestions? Did you get your dealer mad at you somehow? Or do you live in the UK? Yes, the heater relays are on a board by themselves. If that is all you need to replace - and that is exactly WHY HS put them on their own board BTW - then you can replace just the Heater Realy Board. As to 'rebuilding your tribend heater' I am interested to hear what was done. I didn't know they could even be opened, let alone rebuilt. Not sure how he rebuilt the heater either. The dealer didn't believe it was possible, but the guy told me he use to work for hotsprings and told me that they would tell me it wasn't possible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nsin Posted February 27, 2008 Report Share Posted February 27, 2008 You cant rebuild any of those heater unless, you start from scratch. And those relays are hard to find according to watkins techs, ive tried, but had to order new iq. But relays are out there, or something similar to them. Too bad you dont have iq2020, like chas said, just change out relay board. Oh, I did see a heater like yours on ebay, half the price. Good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan.The.Spa.Man Posted February 27, 2008 Report Share Posted February 27, 2008 You cant rebuild any of those heater unless, you start from scratch. And those relays are hard to find according to watkins techs, ive tried, but had to order new iq. But relays are out there, or something similar to them. Too bad you dont have iq2020, like chas said, just change out relay board. Oh, I did see a heater like yours on ebay, half the price. Good luck I have been able to get those relays in the past...let me check today. Set the meter for OHMS (upside down horseshoe) and put the leads on the black and white terminals from the heater while it is disconnected. Make sure you have tried the hi-limit reset on the side first. You should get a reading around 9.0 - 12.0 or something like that. If it reads OL then the heater is bad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buckster Posted February 27, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 27, 2008 You cant rebuild any of those heater unless, you start from scratch. And those relays are hard to find according to watkins techs, ive tried, but had to order new iq. But relays are out there, or something similar to them. Too bad you dont have iq2020, like chas said, just change out relay board. Oh, I did see a heater like yours on ebay, half the price. Good luck I have been able to get those relays in the past...let me check today. Set the meter for OHMS (upside down horseshoe) and put the leads on the black and white terminals from the heater while it is disconnected. Make sure you have tried the hi-limit reset on the side first. You should get a reading around 9.0 - 12.0 or something like that. If it reads OL then the heater is bad. Thanks for your help, I will check the heater and if it is dead I will probably just get a new pack (I heard they only used the heater I have for a year or two because it had problems) then I will have digital side controls anyway. I have been looking at the the Smart Touch 1000 with the 15 inch heater for 479. I am checking out the the balboa stuff too. 900 dollars for the control board and heater seems a bit rough but maybe the 479 spa pack replacement seems to good to be true. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan.The.Spa.Man Posted February 27, 2008 Report Share Posted February 27, 2008 You cant rebuild any of those heater unless, you start from scratch. And those relays are hard to find according to watkins techs, ive tried, but had to order new iq. But relays are out there, or something similar to them. Too bad you dont have iq2020, like chas said, just change out relay board. Oh, I did see a heater like yours on ebay, half the price. Good luck I have been able to get those relays in the past...let me check today. Set the meter for OHMS (upside down horseshoe) and put the leads on the black and white terminals from the heater while it is disconnected. Make sure you have tried the hi-limit reset on the side first. You should get a reading around 9.0 - 12.0 or something like that. If it reads OL then the heater is bad. Thanks for your help, I will check the heater and if it is dead I will probably just get a new pack (I heard they only used the heater I have for a year or two because it had problems) then I will have digital side controls anyway. I have been looking at the the Smart Touch 1000 with the 15 inch heater for 479. I am checking out the the balboa stuff too. 900 dollars for the control board and heater seems a bit rough but maybe the 479 spa pack replacement seems to good to be true. I think you would run into a bunch more problems trying to retro-fit a balboa pack into your HotSpring tub. Before you do that read my private message I just sent. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan.The.Spa.Man Posted February 28, 2008 Report Share Posted February 28, 2008 Wow, I got your pictures and crazy doesn't even begin to describe the wiring job. I wouldn't let the person who did it anywhere near the spa again. I sent you an email back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buckster Posted February 28, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 28, 2008 Thanks, I will post pics on the board here when i figure it out. I did find the new titanium no fault heater on line for 269, much better than 465. I have not tested the one have just yet though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan.The.Spa.Man Posted March 1, 2008 Report Share Posted March 1, 2008 Thanks, I will post pics on the board here when i figure it out. I did find the new titanium no fault heater on line for 269, much better than 465. I have not tested the one have just yet though. Have you had a chance to test the heater yet? Any progress? ...I sent you another email Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buckster Posted March 12, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 12, 2008 Thanks, I will post pics on the board here when i figure it out. I did find the new titanium no fault heater on line for 269, much better than 465. I have not tested the one have just yet though. Have you had a chance to test the heater yet? Any progress? ...I sent you another email Ok, so I found out my heater was still good but missing the thermistor input. Apparently the input to the no-fault 6000 was broke broke so the tech (not hot springs) tried to tape it to one of the hoses. I purchased a new heater and a control panel to finally fix it correctly. And thanks to Dan's tips on wiring the control panel and using needle nose vice grips to replace the heater with very little water spillage the tub is up and running as of 1130am:) I went to work for a bit and upon arriving home I noticed that there is not much flow coming from the cir pump. The reason I think this, is because I usually have a pretty good stream of water spilling into the compartment where the filters are located. Now I have a very small trickle of water. The tub has heated up to about 80 degrees though. Do I need to replace this too? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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