Pool Purification

[AntFL]

Hello,

We are getting ready to have our pool & patio remodeled, and decided to maybe change our water purification method from chlorine to saltwater...

Saltwater: One thing I came across with the saltwater system is that the cells need to be changed about every 3-5 years. Is this true? From what I dug up, the cells can cost anywhere from about $400 - $1000. Is this correct?

A salt water system that has been recommended to me is the www.autopilot.com. I'll have to dig up their cell prices, but is this a good system?

UV: Then I came across UV systems... but it appears that these setups require the pool pump to run most of the day everyday. Which the last thing I want to do is use more electric.

Copper: So that lead me to copper systems... which overall seem good, but... it's copper! Of what I read, it seems that the copper levels are extremely low though and the replacement copper bar is about $100, and need to be replace approx. every 3 years. From a financial aspect... it's good.

Mineral Hybrid: And the other is a Mineral Hybrid system. One contractor recommended the Pool Frog www.Kingtechnology.com

But from what I've read, it seems this has a Bac Pac that has to be replaced approx every 2 weeks at $16 a pop. More expensive then chlorine.

I was just wondering if the facts I dug up are accurate, and what your thoughts are on these... Saltwater seems to be the #1 choice, but if the cells cost $400 - $1000... ouch!!!

Thanks,

Anthony

[ANG]

Anthony,

I own a service route of 150 pools in the Daytona Beach area and unfortunately living in Florida takes a toll on everything more than anywhere else in the country. Your right , from my experience the salt cells generally last around 3 -5 years and cost about $500. They also need to be acid washed every 3 months or so, not to mention having to add more salt and stabalizer to the pool than other parts of the country because we are all year round pools. Alot of the other options for sanatation don't work as well because of the heat. When it comes to the cost for the salt systems its about $1500 to install, $500 in a couple of years for the cell and not to mention the cost of chemicals ie. salt , stabalizer, acid. Alot of people do say that the water does feel better to swim in than chlorine dispensed pools. Bottom line is though, you really won't save much with the salt systems.

[waterbear]

One thing to remember is the a SWG IS a chlorine system and NOT an alternative sanitizer. If you have a cartridge filter then you will only lose salt and stablizer through splashout so the chemical expense is actually much lower. Acid usage is going to be higher than a pool on trichylor but comparable to a pool on liquid chlorine. The electricty consumption is actually minimal. Once the initial outlay is finished the cost of replacement cells is actually not that different than what would be spent on cnlorine during the 5 year period that most cells last.

If you have high calcium water then the cells will need cleaning on a regular basis but if you can balance your water it's a non issue. I live in Fl and have a SWG on my pool which runs year round and I have only acid washed my cell once in the past 3 years!

We sell several different brands of SWGs where I work and while they all do the inteneded thing of producing chlorine by electrolysis I can say that the Pool Pilot it probably the best unit out there with many bell and whistles that do improve it performace. However, these very same bells and whistles also make is a bit more difficult to set up properly and many pool builders and maintenance techs are really clueless when it comes to proper setup and water balance for a pool with a SWG!

As far as the other sytems you were thinking about let me tell you this. There are only 3 EPA approved and registered sanitizers for pools and spas--chlorine, bromine, and biguanide. All others such as UV, ozone, and the various ionizers and erosion type metal systems (call them mineral systems if it sounds more organic but the fact is they use such chemicals as copper sulfate and silver nitrate to add metal ions to the water) are secondary systems that MUST be used with an EPA approved sanitizer!

Personally, I have lived with a SWG for several years now and would NOT go back to maually chlorinating a pool! It has really cut down on the maintenance involved!

[AntFL]

Thanks for the replies and educating me. I think an SWG is probably the way I'll go... I have read some good things on the Pool Pilot, are there any others I should consider?

Thanks,

Anthony

[waterbear]

Thanks for the replies and educating me. I think an SWG is probably the way I'll go... I have read some good things on the Pool Pilot, are there any others I should consider?

Thanks,

Anthony

The only unit that is starting to approack Pool Pilot in bells and whistles is the newer Goldline (Hayward) Aqualogic usiits which combine the SWG with full pool automation. They are introducing acid or CO2 pH control (Pool Pilot has had acid pH control with their Total control system for a few years now). If you are planning to upgrade to full pool automation then you might want to check out the Goldline Aqualogic units. I would not get anything less than a PS-8 if you do and get the remote! If you are looking for a good basic unit that works well then the Goldline AquaRite or a Resiliance (very basic but dependable) are two to consider. No matter which one you go with be sure to oversize the cell if different sized cells are an option. This will help maximize cell life. Also run your stabilzer near the high end of the recommeded range (VERY IMPORTANT for reasons that take a while to explain) and run your Total alkalinity very low (about 70-80 ppm or possibly even a bit lower). You also want to keep you pH in a narrow window of 7.6-7.8. If you do you will maximize cell life, minimize scaling, and have the best pH stability. One final thing you might want to consider is adding borates (Proteam Supreme Plus. Bioguard Optimizer, Poollife Endure, etc.)to your water to 50 ppm. This will contribute to the pH stability and also lessen your chlorine demand so you can run the cell at a lower output. Running at a lower output will lengthen cell life and also contribute to less acid consumption.

One final thing, if you ever need to shock the pool (a rare event with a properly running SWG) use liquid chlorine or bleach (same thing actually! only difference is the strength!) instead of the boost or shock funtion of the SWG if it has one (most of them do). This will also help maximize cell life. The cell is actually generating liquid chlorine in the water so shocking with liquid will have the least impact on your water chemistry.

Remember that a SWG only makes the chlorine. You still need to test and balance your water on a regular basis. If you don't have one now is the time to invest in a GOOD test kit. For home use I recommend the Taylor K-2006 (not the K-2005!) It will make your water balancing much easier and is worth every penny. With this kit you can test your free and combined chlorine, pH with acid and base demand, total alkalinity, calcium hardness, and cyanuric acid (stabilizer) For salt testing the easiest accurate way is with the Aquachek salt test strips (one of the two test strips I will use and recommend). Most of the salt meters built into SWGs are not that accurate and sometimes still need to be calibrated against a chemical test or a portable meter that has been calibrated. For borates use the LaMotte borate test strips, they are much easier to read than any of the others (the other test strip I will use and recommend).

I do a lot of water testing at work and have helped get a lot of salt pools running well. Once they are set up and running they are very trouble free.

Hope this info is helpful!

[AntFL]

very helpful waterbear... thank you!

Looks like I have some reading/research to do...

[Discountpoolspa]

The SWG would be your best bet in my opinion. This will do more than just sanitize your pool. The water in a salt pool is much more comfortable to swim in as well. I would put one on my pool just for this reason.

I have heard great things about ozonators and mineral filter aids, and I have heard people say they didn't notice a difference at all. You can certainly supplement a salt chlorination system with an ozonator and/or mineral filter though. (mineral filter such as the Nature2) All three will work together, but you may or may not notice enough of a difference to justify the cost.

[brianna]

well in my point of view The residential swimming pool or spa water ozone generators are easily installed in new pools, spa or fitted into existing ones. Ozone is injected into the return and instantly purifies the water. They attach to the water circulation system quickly and easily. The specification of each are included in the Model Specifications below.

PZV series portable ozone generators features an ultra violet bulb and internal mini-compressor for custom applications. The system is ideally designed to stand alone, injecting ozone into all water treatment and purification applications, such as non-ozone ready spa, aquarium, smaller ponds, and air applications. PZV Series water ozonator comes complete with Micro-pore diffuser to allow maximum ozone absorption-plus ozone resistant check valve.

Requires no installation. Simply plug it in and throw the diffuser into the tub. The PZV ozone generator has 20,000 hour lamp rating with two year warranty on the lamp, and one year warranty on the air compressor. testking 70-549 800 gallons maximum. PZ1 series ozone generators for portable ozone ready spa and tying into the blower line for natural injector draw. Or, for maximum ozone water mixing, use with the bypass injector kit. The PZ1 has modular extruded aluminum case featuring an internally potted ballast. Purification system was designed to maintain safety, reliability and ruggedness with replaceable lamp assembly. It is backed by full two-year factory warranty and is UL Classified. 800 gallons maximum. PZ4 works on all above-ground swimming pool, but is especially good for flex-plumbed pools of 15,000 or less. Ozone enters the water through an inline injector, testking 000-206 which is installed just after the filter. Installation is simple and maintenance free. The PZ4 is simply set on the ground next to the equipment and its built-in feet are pressed into the soil. The water ozonator unit should be wired to the timer.

PZ4 water ozonator system is designed for quick turn-key installation, with simple connections, no cutting or drilling. The in-line or bypass injector mixers provide maximum absorption. The PZ4 is weatherproof and features an air filter/dryer under the system. The clear gasket glows when the system is on. The PZ4 warranty is two full years on all parts.

PZ6-C with compressor is the most compact air or water ozonator for smaller portable spas under 300 gallons. The corona hybrid technology provides highly efficient ozone generation without the corrosive and toxic byproducts. The Hybrid system uses solid-state drivers with EMI and surge suppression to ensure spa controls are not affected when the unit is started or operating. The PZ6-C is thermally protected to prevent overheating in the event that airflow is interrupted. Its compact package includes built-in check valve. testking JN0-311 The unit is ready for installation on ozone ready spas or installed with the Bypass System to ensure complete ozone utilization. The PZ6 is Underwriters Laboratory Classified and Recognized and may be UL listed for spas. There are many applications for the PZ6-C in home and business use like: aquariums, bubble in drinking water, car deodorizer, cisterns, foot massage therapy, fresh food storage, purify and wash your fruits and vegetables in the kitchen sink, refrigerated cases, water evaporative coolers, falls or small ponds, and watering house plants.