RDspaguy

Non chlorine shock will work, but give a false high chlorine reading for days. If your spa has an ozone system you should not need to shock, as ozone provides oxidation and will reduce tc, then fc. I would recommend you get rid of the floaty thing and the tablets that go in it, as they are trichlor, or even worse bromine, which is the reason you battle ph. Use 1 tsp plus 1/2 tsp per additional person of dichlor after you use the spa, at least 2 tsp per week if used infrequently. Leave cover open for 30 minutes after you add dichlor to extend cover life. Shock with dichlor or non-chlorine shock each week. It should not take much. You will find you seldom have to adjust your alk and ph, your cover and pillows do not bleach out, your cover lasts longer, your topside controller lasts longer, you do not smell chemicals when you open your spa, you don't itch after using your spa, and you enjoy owning a hot tub more than ever. The use of a mineral purifier adds silver and copper into the water which interferes with the reproductive cycle of single celled organisms such as bacteria and algea. It does not actually sanitize or destroy organic contaminants so is not a substitute for chlorine, it just slows down multiplication. This can be helpful for those who struggle with water chemistry.

Can't get the link. Helps to know brand, age, voltage, etc...

Having had a board repair bite me, I am certain to stress that I will not guarantee a board repair or offer a warranty. I recommend the new pack with the new pack warranty. Some people still do repair, some get a board, most get a pack. Just my personal experience. Guess it depends alot on customers budget, too.

Definitely wont hurt to check pump, but, again, the board controls one leg of voltage to pump. Without both legs, pump wont run. If I were on the call, I would disconnect pump wiring at the board, turn on power and test the output at the board. Low speed pump terminal should not read voltage to common terminal when switched to high speed. If it does, your relay is stuck. You cannot test this with pump connected.

I usually recommend swapping in a new control pack rather than buying the board. You get a new heater, sensors, and topside controller with the pack, usually for much less than you could replace those components individually. It is a better long term investment.

Copied from Balboa website. CFE or CONFIG ERROR Message There is a "Configuration Error" (CFE) in the Dip Switches or Configuration Settings. This Error Message indicates that the Dip Switch Numbers Displayed or the Configuration Setting Values Displayed on the Topside Panel, following the "CFE" Message, are in Conflict with each other. Contact your Dealer or Service Organization to check the Switch Numbers or Setting Values Displayed, and Correct as Necessary to Match the Equipment in the Spa System, or Continue for a Detailed Test Procedure. 1. Turn OFF the Power to the System and Turn it back ON again to put System into Priming Mode. 2. Press any "Cool", "Warm", or "Temp" Button to Exit Priming Mode. 3. After about 45 Seconds, Check for Error Messages on the Topside Panel Display. If there is No Error Message, Select "No Error Message" Below. If there is Now an Error Message, select Message Other than CFEor CONFIG ERROR below or contact your Dealer or Service Organization. No Error Messages: The "CFE" or "CONFIG ERROR" Configuration Error Appears to have been Corrected or is Intermittent. If the Error Repeats, Retest the "CFE" or "CONFIG ERROR" Configuration Error or Call Balboa Technical Service for Assistance. If there has been no change to the dipswitch settings you will probably be looking at a board issue. If water in bottom of tub reaches any equipment it is definitely a problem. Could the water be getting deeper in winter because the location it is draining out gets frozen up? Is there any sign of rust or corrosion on the board?

Proper water balance is dependent on several factors, including calcium hardness and temperature. Is this a saltwater pool?

What is the calcium hardness of your water?

This stuck relay can be brought about by a motor that needs a rebuild, btw. If the relays are open or the caps easily removed, I have had good luck delaying the inevitable demise of the relay by manually opening it with a small screwdriver. If you are handy with the solder gun you can replace the relay fairly easily. Just be VERY careful not to overheat the control side printed circuit, which is very thin, or you will destroy the board.

So, the motor you just rebuilt is running continuously and only in low speed, and high speed just hums? I would say check the connections and the work. A wiring issue can occur during a rebuild, too. Running continuously is more often a circuit board issue with a properly grounded system. The pumps needs power to run, and that is controlled by the board. Relays can stick or even weld themselves closed. Sound s to me like low speed pump relay is stuck. When you engage high speed low speed does not turn off which locks up the motor or makes it run very strange, eventually damaging the motor.

Good advice from CanadianSpaTech. Just heed his warning about the insulation around the pumps and equipment. I would encase the foam in poly sheeting, thicker the better. Tape it up tight with clear packing tape on the top side of each panel before you upholster with vinyl. It may buy you some extra life on your cover. Consider some rigid center support at the hinge, or even a layer of plywood with deck seal inside the plastic, to help avoid sagging and holding water, which is the end of a cover. Manufactured covers are also sloped, but I have no suggestions for how to do that. Best of luck! Post some pictures of your creation, I would love to see it.

I couldn't agree more.

First off, stainless steel is not stainless in poor water chemistry. Most brands use expensive chemical systems and automation to prevent corrosion. If left empty and exposed to sunlight it can get hot enough to melt the jets. Not covered by warranty and expensive to fix. Acrylic can also be damaged by sunlight, but in different ways. Some brands use a hydraulic pump to turn a propeller in the tub for the swim jet, so leaks can mean hydraulic fluid in your equipment room, not just water around your tub. Steel is a heat conductor so, if poorly insulated, will cost more to keep it hot. When properly maintained, will look great indefinitely. Seating will be mostly flat, bench type seats as molding steel sheet is much more difficult than acrylic / fiberglass.

Is your spa equipment shared by the pool? Do you have automated valves that determine which body of water the equipment is utilizing? What brand of controller do you have?

Remove filters, be sure water is clean and cover is closed, and see how it goes. If it heats up, clean or replace filters.

Your spa has been plumbed for a blower for air. This "w" shaped pipe is called a hartford loop and is the first line of defense to protect that blower from water. It is leaking because it was made to. Your water level is too high, or you had a bunch of people in it causing it to raise. Lower water level, your leak will stop.

No cover, 120 volts, cold outside. You are lucky it has heated at all. Turn it off until you have a cover, you are just wasting a bunch of $. Covers can be had numerous places online for around $300. Fit and construction are as important as a layer of insulation on top. I would recommend you order one, as your diy will be inferior and will not last. Garage doors do not hold in caustic chemical fumes that deteriorate foam and vinyl.

It seems you have a good bit of info to base your decision on. I will add that, as a 25 year spa tech, I consider thermospas to be a mid-grade product. Nothing special or great about them. I have never had the sales experience, but have repaired many because I service all brands and often get referrals from the stores for the ones they don't want to mess with. You are on your own with a thermospa, they have no repair network to speak of and, if you do get "their guy" he is new to the business or he would not work for so little. They have approached me before, and I laughed at their offer. Get a spa from a local dealer with good reviews. All spas have their issues, what matters most is how they handle them.

What is the air temperature where your spa is located? Do you have a cover on the spa? If so, how thick is it? Is it solid, vinyl, or inflatable? How many gallons does the spa hold or how big is it?