RDspaguy

Yes, switch the temp and high limit wires where they connect to the plug going into the board. See if the displayed temperature changes when you do so. If it does not, locate the transformer and see if it is hot to the touch. Do you have an electrical tester?

Ok. It seems that they are stapled from the back into panels then attached. I would recommend a little investigation before you start cutting up your skirting. Let's see if it leaks with nothing running first, that will narrow things down by half.

So the topside indicator is not on but it has 230v to the heater? And it is not heating as much as it should, but is heating? Is it in economy mode? https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.spastore.com.au/assets/files/Gecko%20SSPA%20TSC-19%20(4%20Button)%20and%20TSC-35%20(%206%20Button)%20User%20Guide.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwjqrZO7r97oAhXaPM0KHTJzCe4QFjAQegQIBxAB&usg=AOvVaw2LPkvFQaderKuLdiDOGqO_

How are you measuring the temperature? Could that be wrong? That spa has two sensors. Try to switch the wires in the plug, so that both wires from each sensor are in the location of the wires from the other. See if your reading changes.

Your side panels should come off without damage. How high did you fill it? Water level should be about 6 inches from the top. If you overfill it will leak, possibly down to the footwell. Fill it and leave it off, see if it leaks without the pump running.

Perfect. Glad you figured it out.

It would help more to eliminate the contamination to begin with. Wash off before using the spa, keep hair up and out of the water, do not use suntan oil or sunblock, rinse bathing suit in sink instead of washing with detergent and fabric softener. What is your chemical maintenance routine?

Link doesn't work. Could you have overfilled?

I'd guess it is makeup, conditioner, lotion, fabric softener, skin oil, or a combination thereof. Commonly known as scum, which accumulates at and above the water line. They have floating sponges called "scum ball", believe it or not, that gather it up. But if you don't bring it in it can't get into your water.

Can you post a pic of the controls?

Does it wipe off? Are those ripples in the water or the spa?

Add water as needed. Drain timing depends on many factors that the average homeowner does not have the equipment to test, such as TDS, CYA, phosphates, etc... If you can test all applicable parameters, do it when you feel you need to. If not, 4-6 months is my recommendation.

Ok. Wood tubs are not common, I have only worked on a dozen or so in 25 years. So I am no expert on them or how to best maintain them. I would say to do some research or follow manufacturers recommendations, but you have clearly done one and chosen to ignore the other. So I'll bite. Lets start with ozone. Used for decades in multi-story municipal water tanks with great success, they were implemented into the aquatics industry. The first to use it in a portable spa was Dimension One, where it began a spectacularly destructive story. Ozone is not stable at normal uv levels. It is generated by exposing oxygen to high intensity uv radiation. Once it leaves the uv exposure it will remain ozone for a short time, around 20 seconds or so IIRC, before breaking down and reforming into oxygen. It is during the conversion from ozone (O3) to oxygen (O2) that free radicals or oxidizers are present (O1, if you will). If the ozone is in contact with water when this occurs, it will burn off organic contaminants including chloramines just like a shock. This means the ozone must be contained within a pipe for the full duration of it's life, which means a very long run of pipe. If released into the tub beforehand it only oxidises the cover, pillows, valves, and controller, while doing nearly nothing for your water. This was the case for a good decade in the spa industry before they figured it out. Some manufacturers still do this. Your whole tub is an organic contaminant. I would get some info on the ozone injection system before using ozone. Properly used, it is my favorite spa accessory. I assume by ionizer you are talking about a mineral cartridge, filter, or floater and not an electronic ionizer? In an acrylic spa I can take or leave them. In a wood spa, anything that can cut down on oxidizers like chlorine, MPS, and bromine (to a lesser extent) are desirable. Do not use chealation or sequesterants if using a mineral purifier. I suspect the lower oxidation potential of bromine is the primary reason it is recommended by the manufacturer. It also maintains at higher temps and is still an effective sanitizer even as bromide, whereas chlorine is not, once converted to chloramines. But it is not so easily oxidized as chloramines. The manufacturer has to cover his posterior by recommending a system that is health department approved or risk liability in any mishaps. Such a system is generally overkill for a private spa with a cover. But I agree with them to some degree in this case. Bromine is probably going to be better to your wood than chlorine when maintained as a residual. I normally recommend dichlor because it is ph neutral and easily oxidized. So it is ideal for a low dose at use treatment. It does build up cya, but as frequently as spas are drained it is not an issue. But it is a powerful oxidizer and could bleach out your wood. Have you looked in to direct uv sanitizers? Also a good addition for low chemical systems. Often used in conjunction with H2O2 (hydrogen peroxide) injection in metal tubs and medical/ sporting equipment. Not sure how H2O2 might do in a wood tub, but nice because the only off-gas is oxygen. Very expensive system both to install and use.

Your choice draws 4 more amps, which may be an issue when everything is cranking. The amp draw is key, hp ratings on spa pumps are mostly marketing. I recommend replacing it with a 12 amp pump. I also recommend a spa parts supplier, pumps from amazon have a bad reputation. I have used these guys a few times with no complaints. https://www.spapartsdepot.com/waterway-4/ Feel free to shop other brands, it is a fairly standard design.

Could be several things at this point. Readings will point the way.

What brand is it? I need to call and have a chat with them. We can provide you with all the info you need, but to save time I would suggest you google "bromine or chlorine in my spa?" For some basic info, then come back and hit us with your questions. Anyone who tells you not to test your water has no business in this business.

What are your readings? What are you using in it?

How is the flow from the jets? It sounds to me like the flow is not keeping up with the heat output. So your temp reading rises rapidly with little change to actual temp in the spa. It could also be a control issue, overheating transformer causing variable readings and system reset. Eliminate flow as an issue, and incoming power, and you are left with controls.

It's alright, we believe you...

https://www.cedartubs.com/chemical-free-sanitization.html

Loosen the bolt and whack it with a hammer to drive the wedge down. Check for debris under the wedge.

Picked a hell of a day to stop sniffing glue! (Another airplane quote, I don't sniff glue unless I am at work.) I, again, would get a pack. You can buy a board and heater, maybe get it installed and wired right after a few days of back-and-forth on the forum, and get a 3 month warranty. Or you can spend a couple hudred more and get new everything with a 3 year warranty. Hook it up and connect 4 wires. Plug in the equipment. Set the switches. It is really a no-brainer as far as I am concerned. We still don't know what went boom. I guess it wasn't the pump capacitor since it ran afterwards. But if spa repair is your hobby, by all means do it piecemeal. What do you say, Canadaguy? Think our new friend can change an element without twisting the terminal and still keep it straight in the tube? Or should he get the complete assembly for a diy? Board about $220, heater assembly $100, $320 for that. New vs500 about $360 without topside?

Glad to help.

Awesome! Can you post some pics? Does it have a pump?

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