CanadianSpaTech

R10 is chip revision number and LL 39 is the low level programming number. Do these numbers repeat over and over or does it trip the breaker? Try disconnecting the heater from the circuit board and see it it holds

When you turn on the breaker and wait past the PR (priming mode) does the pump 1 eventually start on it's own and run in low speed? Does the heat indicator on the topside then flicker for a minute and then go solid? Post photos of the circuit board, the topside and the schematic on the inside cover of the pack so we can see what control system you have installed.

As long as you wire it up correctly you should not have any issues. Just make sure when you start up the spa it starts in low. If it starts in high then swap the red and black wires at the pump. One is high and one is low. If the back of the pump is hard to get at when installed test it before you install.

Post photos of the circuit board, Topside and schematic on inside cover if there is one so we can see what system you have.

Yes. Nothing to lose. As long as you are GFCI protected of course.

When the pumps have been running for a few minutes can you put your hand on them for more than 3-5 seconds or is it extremely hot to the touch?

Failing inside breaker? I would inspect it.

Sometimes when you look in the back it is obvious the relay has failed but not always. Follow the power. In the bottom photo it shows the relays. Please be careful and do not exceed your knowledge and ability. Test for AC White to the open tab in the top relay. Then the top black wire connection. Then test white to the bottom black wire connection and last the bottom relay open tab. (Solid heat light on topside) Where does the power end.

Not sure about Coast but some spas have a ball valve inside the cabinet that can be adjusted to restrict the flow.

If it makes a loud hard buzzing sound you may have a stuck pump relay and the spa pack is sending power to both hi and low speed at the same time. Next time you power up see if you can press the pump into high speed and see if the buzz goes away. You will need a multi meter to test for power off the circuit board where the pump connects and see if it has power to the pump in both speeds. Are you sure the new pump is wired correctly?

@RDspaguy Thoughts

Post photos of the circuit board. Does the heat indicator light come on on the topside. First it will flicker for 30 seconds and then go solid. Once it is solid test for 240V at the 2 heater lugs on the heater tube. If you don't get 240V then you likely have a bad heater relay on the board. Remove the board and have a look on the back for darkened or burnt areas around the K2,3,4 relays. Relays are fairly cheap ($20) and can be replaced but you either need the correct soldering tools or find a local electronics repair shop that can do the work for you. I normally have them replace all the relays to freshen up the board. Where are you located? Post results

yes It is an option Where are you located?

Says image service unavailable

audio but no video... that I can see

There are a couple of capacitors on the top right side of the board. Round, black with a cross on the top. Does it look like the tops are bulging outward? You might have a low voltage power supply issue but can be difficult to trace.

Please start your own post

Do you have a multi meter and know how to use it? Test for 240V power the the 2 heater lugs. If you get 240V replace the heater element. If you don't get 240V then you likely have a blown heater relay. If you have a bad relay remove the board and have a look on the backside and you will likely see a darkened or burnt area around the heater relays. Relays can be replaced fairly cheap ($20 each) and can be done DIY with the right soldering tools and a bit of soldering knowledge. The "slightly" part of your comment tells me you might want to fins a local electronics repair shop and have them do the work. I send mine out and I will normally have them replace all the relays on the board to freshen it up. Replacing that entire pack might be difficult to find. The pack is a CS501x. The CS means it might be proprietary to Cal Spa and if so anything proprietary can be expensive to replace. In the link below it says there is a universal replacement. I would contact the seller and have them tell you your available options. Make sure the circuit board is compatible with your topside. If the universal replacement will work shop that part number for best price. Removing the circuit board might seem daunting but if you take before photos and mark wires as you disconnect it's not that bad. https://spacircuits.com/Cal-Spa-ELE09907296-Balboa--CSBP501X-Consider-the-universal-BP501U-replacement-PN-33-59375-K-which-will-replace-any-BP501Gx-board_p_11156.html https://spacircuits.com/assets/images/ELE09907296 CSBP501X 56568-04 BP501-CSBP501X-AU Tech Sheet (2).pdf

If it is a Jacuzzi or Sundance Spa post the year of manufacture. There is a recall on Temp sensors. https://www.jacuzzi.com/en-us/recall.html# Jacuzzi or not your issue is likely with the temp sensor.

Looks half in half out but unrelated to the issues you are having.

Disconnect the pump from the board and test for power coming off the board. If it has power longer then the 30 seconds it is likely a pump issue. What's a Hawk Box? Add hot water Hi limit sensor.. might move that over by the pressure switch so it is inside the spa pack

@cranbiz note the wet end... looks like an Ultra Jet Ultima wet end. The link you provided should also work.. if there is play in the plumbing https://pool-spa-supplies.com/vico-ultima-4-hp-2-s-d-230v-12a-2-spd-13-3-7-amps-1014164-16394 https://www.hottuboutpost.com/balboa-vico-ultima-4hp-230v-pump-34-430-2512n-48fr-2-speed/

Usually a start cap going/gone south but sounds like you have addressed that before. Does the shaft spin freely? On the motor end there is not really a lot you can do for a DIY rebuild. On the wet end...end if it feels tight to spin the shaft what can happen is the shaft of the motor where the impeller screws onto the shaft the shaft just behind the thread for the impeller can/will expand outward from centrifugal force. The shaft then expands outward and can/will cause the impeller shaft to also expand outward usually splitting the impeller shaft. The impeller shaft then gets locked into the pump/shaft seal. This in turn can/will start to leak. If it leaks water will run down the shaft into the face of the motor where the front bearing sits. If left unchecked for long enough the front bearing can/will rust and begin to make noise or lock up entirely. When I do a rebuild I replace the impeller (they always break) and a new shaft seal. When apart I check the front bearing and replace if needed. Back bearings are good 95% of the time. The shaft where the impeller screws on usually needs to be ground down so the new impeller screws on freely and is not tight. In short...lol a tight shaft might make starting low speed difficult for the motor.

I normally don't cut any lines. Back off the large nut on the jet back and then push jet forward far enough to remove old seal then use marine grade silicone front and back then retighten the large nut. Be sure to remove old silicone on backside before re siliconizing it back in.

@Grant D Please start your own thread in the future. It could be. What size breaker do you have it connected to? 15A? With the pump drawing 13A you are right up against the breaker max. If you have ozone and a light on add those amp draws to the calculation of total amp draw. What is wrong with the original pump/motor? Why not rebuild it?