CanadianSpaTech

Would help to know if the actual water temp matches the display using a thermometer. Is the heat indicator on/off during this period? I would test the heater for power when the heat indicator is off and see if there is a stuck relay. Ohm test the sensors and make sure they are in range. After the pumps have been running for a bit see if you can hold your hand on the motor. It will be hot but should not be untouchable. Post photos of the topside the control system the circuit board and the schematic on the inside cover if there is one. Nice set up and should not have air flow issues. Remove filters during testing. Anytime you have any issues with the spa always remove them and take them out of the equation. New used just cleaned no matter remove them. Dirty filters (even though they look clean) are a flow killer. They will slow the flow of water going through the heater and across the sensors and can cause issue.

You replaced the circ... did it ever run with the new circ or is it new new. Did you replace it with the same voltage (120V/230V) Likely a 230V needed. Please verify. You might want to disconnect the heater from the board until you get things right so you don't go nuclear and burn the house down. Use a multi meter to know when you have power off the board going to the heater. Next time the circ stops when it shouldn't test for power off the circuit board going to the circ. If you have power then it's a circ issue. As for air getting introduced into the system somehow ensure water level is not to high...or low. Jets and air injection are related to the main pumps and not related to the circ heating/filtering system/lines. see below Poet photos of the control system, circuit board and schematic on inside cover so we are on the same page with what you have. Basing my advice on what I think you have but admittedly I have been wrong once before...lol

Was the spa water actually 103 tested with a thermometer? Was the spa running a filter cycle during the time the cover was closed? Was the heat indicator led on at all during that time? if set at 95 and below display temp of 98 it should not come on. Cool the water down to 98 again and set it at 95 as before but open the front panel a bit to let fresh cool air in and see if you get the same results as before. If you cycled the main power off/on just prior to your first test do it again. How long were the pumps running for? a pump will generate upwards of 140 degrees when running and can elevate the water temp above set point from the inside. I can see what they are saying and this can happen if there is not enough air flow to cool the pumps. Normally a summer problem but I have seen spas overheat due to their location and blocked air flow. A lot of the internal heat is released along the top edge of the spa between the acrylic and the side panels. Heat rises. Spas sunken into decks right up to the acrylic can block air flow/release as well. Some folks will use a cover cap and they can also block heat release/air flow but rare in the cooler months.

Looks correct. Might redo the white into the GFCI just for shits and giggles if you had it apart. Might disconnect wires from pack and test white to blk 120V white to red 120V and then red to black 240V to ensure you are getting both 120V legs = 240V to the pack. Had one this week with 120V testing good to each leg but nothing 0 red to blk. Bad GFCI. Did not trip though.

Bad breaker that can't carry load? You could remove the pack and take the back off and look for burnt areas. Aside from that... Post photos. Ensure the white wire coming from the spa goes into the GFCI and not to the neutral bar. Just the white pigtail goes to the neutral bar.

Your good then. Any of the capacitors bulging on top? If pump restarts right away then it is not a overheat issue IMO. Keep spa in no eco mode or standard mode. Does the pump indicator triangle on the topside stay on when the pump cuts out? Any chance the LL or low level configuration programming number get changed by accident? Verify you have proper voltage coming off the pack in both speeds. See link https://www.geckodepot.com/fichiers/documentsProduits/GDA/en/Techbook_in_xe_EN.pdf

open the panel to get more cooling and see if it trips

Usually a seal that sits between the jet body and the acrylic has failed. Run a bead of marine grade silicone around the jet body where it meets the acrylic.

When you installed the element did you look through the tube and make sure the element was not touching the side wall of the tube? Post photos of the circuit board and the schematic on the inside cover so we can see how it is wired

Any darkened or burnt areas on the back

Don't tell anyone where you got it from...lol http://jacuzzipartners.com/knowledgelibrary/assets/pdf/681.pdf

Set the jumper logic settings to match old board. See schematic top right

@DebKR Please start your own post/thread. Post pics of the circuit board and the schematic on inside cover of the pack. Describe Your issues.

look to see if the flapper is missing at bottom of filter housing

Post photos of the circuit board and the schematic on the inside cover if there is one so we can see what control system you have.

Where are you located?

What other text? I would be changing temp sensor before capacitors.

Is there a chance anything (kids toy, sponge, g string) got past the filters and down the hole? At the bottom of the filter housing there should be a spring loaded flapper (Bypass valve) that is closed when the pump is on low speed and pulls water through the filter. When the pump is engaged in high speed the flapper opens and pulls the extra water need to supply the pump from the foot well suctions. The part that opens with the spring attached can break off In both scenarios the "item" will get sucked into the face of the pump and restrict water flow. Remove the union at the face of the pump and collect your prize.

Look at the "logic jumper settings" at the top of the schematic on inside cover

The only other thing would be to try a new sensor set or ohm test the current set

I see lots of leakage around the capacitors and dark areas to the right of them. I would pull the board (likely has to come out anyway) and have a look on the backside for damage. Post pics of the back. I might try a new sensor set before a new board... but easy for me to say as I have them on my truck. You could remove and swap the sensor wire locations from the box terminal that connects the sensor wires to the circuit board and see if you get a different result/error code.

Not on the panel... on the circuit board. If you have correct incoming 240V power to the board and there are no error codes on the topside display or a red led lit on the circuit board then you likely have a blown heater relay. Remove the board and look on the back for burnt or darkened areas at the relays. Relays can be replaced but require the right soldering tools and knowledge of how to use them. I take mine to a local electronics repair shop and I have them replace all the relays on the board to freshen it up. Testing incoming power: Red line 1 to black line 2 = 240V Please verify. If you can't find a local shop to replace the relays and can't DIY I recommend replacing the control system with a Balboa pack, topside and pump wires. The board you currently have might be hard to find and might be expensive.

Do you see 3 small dots flashing on the display? Is there a red led lit on the circuit board anywhere?

Lets start with the butcher job on the incoming power wires. I see bent copper strands and they don't look all the way in. Get them all the way in and go over tightening each line min 2x. You need to compress the copper strands for it to be tight. If loose over time the strands will arc and melt the terminal block. Make sure J12 is on pins 2 and 3 dip Switches up is on... A2 off, A5 on, A9 on. A8 on if you want temp in Celsius on display Next you need to verify that the circ pump and ozone are both 120V or 240V. If 120V you need to move the white wire at W2 from Red AC to White AC. Any white wire going to Red AC is for 240V components. Any White wire going to White AC is for 120V components. Next you have pump # 2 (single Speed) plugged into the Pump 1 connection off the board and what should be pump 1 (2 speed) plugged into the pump 2 connection to the board. Swap them around. Let us know results Google and download: Balboa Instruments VS501Z hot sheet

Get the wiring right and we can go from there if needed.