CanadianSpaTech

https://www.poolandhottubdepot.com/how-to-find-the-right-hot-tub-filter/

Are there 3 dots flashing on the topside in between the numbers? Need to see photo of the schematic on the inside cover Is the pack new? Has it ever run properly without issue? When it stops heating does the circ pump continue to run?

Pinch off and disconnect the 3/8" line or drain the spa and open the black end cover. Likely the pressure switch is leaking. Re do it with teflon tape or replace the pressure switch.

Verify the white wire going into the GFCI from the spa goes directly to the gfci and not to the neutral bar. Just the white pigtail on the gfci goes the N

Post photos of the circuit board, topside control and the schematic on the inside cover of the spa pack

They get wider/fatter but your good there. I was going to mention start cap but it was running good before the seal leak so didn't. Some pumps have a cap at the back of the motor. post pics of the motor so we can see what one you have.

PS 1000 is correct. Usually when a seal fails and starts to leak what has happened is that the shaft of the motor just behind the thread where the impeller screws onto the shaft the metal of the shaft has fattened/expanded over time and it presses the impeller shaft apart and into the seal. Most impellers break when trying to get them off because the impeller shaft has cracked/split and locked into the seal. Most motor shafts have to be ground down to reduce it's size a bit so the impeller screws on easily and it spins freely in the seal when installed. Did the new impeller spin onto the shaft easily and did it bottom out?

google: 2011 sundance spa service parts catalog

The heater just buy an element and not the entire heater tube assembly. I have dealt with many power surges in the past and they can do a lot of damage to spa packs and you have to go through each step along the way. I have the advantage of having parts available to check each step. I would order and install a new heater element as you know it's damaged and tripping the breaker. Next I am trying a memory rest. If that fails then I am on to sensors. Testing or replacing. If all that fails a new spa pack. Or go straight to the pack replacement and get it all in one. 54301 replacement. See notes here: https://www.hottuboutpost.com/coleman-460-spa-pack-103735-balboa-powerworks-el2000/ "Existing pack may say 54301-01 on the top of the Balboa EL2000 Series control box."

I'm talking to ownership first and make sure they are actually aware of your displeasure. Contact Bullfrog and also make them aware. You were given advice to vette the dealer as much and the brand and price before you bought. You took a gamble and selected price and product but lost on the dealer. New to the business and without a track record. I might have made the same choice. That's life. I'm sure once you get past this you will have years of enjoyment.

Most of Balboa documents are direct to PDF so can't post links here. Research balboa persistent memory reset and also TEST mode. Try and do a reset. Always remove filters when testing for flow issues. Remove them from the equation. Might want to test the sensors or try a new sensor set if all else fails.

First bypass the salesman and deal directly with the store owner. He will likely have the final decision anyway. If you are still unsatisfied go to the MFG. Keep on them until they respond. About Salesmen... IMO the first question to a sales person when you are shopping is "Are you on Commission or are you an employee of the company". Know what you are dealing with. A commission salesmen's job is to extract as much money out of you as they can and still get you to sign on the bottom line. What happens after that is not really a concern for them. Larger stores will have Customer Service or a Service Dept. to address anything after the sale. Once you sign their job is done and they get payed. For a lot of stores the day you meet the sales person and they are your best friend in the world is likely the last day you will deal with them unless you go to the store and corner them. If a sales person makes a claim or some sort of offer have them put it in writing. They are (not all) talkers and talk is cheap. Knowing if they are commissioned will also help you in negotiation. They have a bottom number that is mandated by ownership and your job is to get to that number and then decide if that is within your original budget. I advise not to buy on the first visit. Hammer them as hard as you can on price and accessories... then walk away. Leave your contact number but tell them it's still above what you want to pay and have to think about it... and wait. They hate this. They have spent their time and get nothing all the while thinking they got you at a good number and they are getting a payday. A good sales person will contact you in a day or 2 to try and salvage the sale. This is when you can control the negotiation (by phone). You can tell them the price is still to high and see if they are really at their bottom number. For the salesmen at this point and they think they are going to lose the sale some is better then nothing. Some will break and some won't and some can't. " I have a budget and this is my number". It's a negotiation and it's your money. Play hardball. If you can get them down 10% from your first visit quote that's $1700. In your case you are past all that but you still have cards to play if you feel you are unsatisfied or feel they are being unreasonable. Always try to deal with the store first but if you still feel upset then social media is an option and although you might not get satisfaction to your needs you can at least prevent the next guy from going through what you went through. JMO If you have to rectify the cover damage try and get just a cover skin (the vinyl) and not an entire cover. Would be cheaper.

Manufacturers want you to deal directly with the dealer that sold you the spa and is in part why a reputable dealer is "Just as important". If you are unhappy with the customer service with your dealer... show up at the store around 1 pm on a Sat. when the sales floor is at it's busiest and let them know how disappointed you are in a mildly loud voice. I am 100% sure they will kiss your ass.. pronto...lol

Where do you get 240V from? I see only 3 wires black white and green. This would indicate a 120V set up.. but needs a jumper wire from Neutral to the red wire location. See the diagram at the lower left of the schematic. For 240V it would need 4 wires red black white and green. At top right of the schematic you will see the jumper settings. For 120V you want LC mode. for 240V HC mode. Just below the jumper settings you will see where the pump wires should connect to the board for 120V and also 240V. Verify pump 1 is a 120V pump and not 240V. You can run the pack as a 240V system but for the heater but the pump remains 120v. See note at left of the schematic. There is not fuse in the pressure switch.

Disconnect the pump from the board and test for power coming off the board in each speed if a 2 speed. If you get correct power to each speed the you likely have a pump issue. How little... If the board got wet then it might just need more time to dry are you sure it was pump 1 that was tripping the breaker and not the heater element kicking in at the same general time as the pump? Disconnect the heater from the board and try. Heater elements are the most common cause of a breaker tripping.

Post photos of the circuit board and the schematic on the inside cover. https://spacare.com/productimages/pdfmanuals/Gecko/SSPAServiceManual.pdf See pages 7 and 10 The only difference is the jumper wire shown on page 7 connecting L2 to N Page 10 shows the HC (High Current) and LC (Low Current) setting for the jumpers. for 240 V set to cover the pins on jumper 1. Look on the schematic on the inside cover to make sure the jumper settings match the manual. Not sure what your issue is based on your description... Is the GFCI tripping?

Milton,ON When you install it just make sure to look down the tube and make sure the element is centered in the tube and not touching the side wall of the tube. Drop out the sensor on the short end to make it easier to remove the old and install the new. I stick my fingers in the long end and keep the element centered in the tube and then tighten the large nut on the short end first and then the nut on the long end. Also make sure the o-rings in the element don't fall off. Read below and you should not have any issues. Careful when tightening the 3/8" nuts to the copper tabs. Be sure to hold the nut underneath. You want it tight but if you go to far you might snap the element post. They twist easily so hold it in place with a wrench. I have a 3/8" wrench that I ground down the sides so it fits between the copper tab and the nut. Good Luck Recommend (Out of London,ON.. spend $100 get free shipping): https://www.poolandhottubdepot.com/balboa-4-0-kw-heater-element/

An element that is covered in scale will also cause the spa to heat very very slowly and will have trouble getting the water up to temp

Again if you have 240V to the element then it should heat. Test the 2 heater element legs for continuity and a bad element.

When FLC is showing remove 1 wire going to the pressure switch does flc go to flo? Gecko Tech support is often very helpful: 1 800 784 3256

Ensure the circ or heating/filtering related pump is running and has good flow. Check the flow switch housing and ensure that the toggle is pushed up against the post and making contact. Sometimes holding a flashlight behind the housing will make it easier to see. If it is making contact with the post but you have the flo error still then try and jumper the 2 flow switch wires together and bypass the switch. I recommend disconnecting the heater to do this test so if there is a flow related issue the heater does not engage and quickly overheat/melt down. The flow switch protects the heater from firing when there is not enough flow. If you jump the wires and the flo goes away replace flow switch.

ODD... Heat light on and you get 240V to the copper tabs then it should be heating or the GFCI should be tripping. Try Test button on the GFCI and make sure it is working correctly.. Did you ohm test the element?

Most common trip cause is the heater element. Disconnect the heater from the board and see if it holds. If it still trips disconnect each component one at a time until it holds (pumps, Ozone). Post pics of the circuit board and the schematic on the inside cover so we can see what you have and how it is wired

Test the 2 green buss fuses that say SC25 or SC 30 on them. Does the heating/filtering related pump run in low or the circ pump if it has one? Test the incoming power and make sure you have 240V red to black and did not lose a leg in the gfci when it took the hit.

Did you install the new flow switch in the right direction? When the circ is running the toggle in the flow switch should get pushed up against the post making a connection. Verify that it is making the connection. if it is making the connection but you still have a flo error you could try to jumper the flow switch but you will need to verify that the circ is flowing water.. or disconnect the heater from the board for testing so if the heater engages and there is a flow issue it won't go nuclear (only takes a split second to get really hot). I recommend disconnecting the heater for testing. Is the new circ the same voltage as the original? (120V or 240V) Next I would be looking at and testing the sensors. See page 55 below for resistance chart You might find help here: http://jacuzzipartners.com/knowledgelibrary/assets/pdf/681.pdf