Spa Board Doctor

There may be a cold solder joint on one of the pins where the temperature sensor plugs in on the circuit board. Brandon@spokanespas.com

Hello, The solid FLO error on the Jacuzzi and Sundance LCD panels occurs only when the spa is in "Summer Logic" mode and there is still continuity across the flow switch. This error code is not found in the owner's manuals. If the spa temperature is above 95 degrees Fahrenheit and the water temperature is 2 degrees Fahrenheit above the set temperature the circulation pump will shut off until the water cools to the set temperature. If continuity is detected during the summer logic mode you will get a solid FLO code. The reason this usually occurs is a stuck-on circulation pump relay on the board. This is a repairable failure. brandon@spokanespas.com

The sensor shown is a freeze sensor. It is possible that the board has fallen out of regulation due to bad filter capacitors in the power supply circuitry. There is a repair capacitor set available on ebay. Search ebay for Sundance capacitor set. Brandon@spokanespas.com

The "HOt" error code means that the board has picked up a potential stuck or sticking closed pump relay. The error can only be cleared by booting the spa in "test mode". WARNING! - If the relay is still stuck closed there is a possibility that both high and low speed pump winding on the pump will be energized at once which could destroy the motor. This is the point where, being a responsible technician, I am hesitant to guide you further. We do handle this type of board repair. Brandon

You have a stuck on pressure switch. The switch threads in to the stainless heater manifold - it has two .25" spade electrical connectors going to it. Replace the switch and you'll be on your way. Brandon

The most common cause of the watchdog error " - - - " is a bad temperature sensor.

This is a common problem with that series of PC Boards. The damaged relay and circuit board traces are repairable. The heater is not the cause of the failure.

The OH error is likely due to low water flow across the heater element from a dirty filter or obstruction in the front of the circ pump. First try removing the filter and run the spa without the filter to see if the problem goes away. If not, you may have to inspect the circ pump intake/impeller for debris. Brandon@spokanespas.com

Check the wiring at the gfci. If you can get more than a quarter turn on any terminal screw - that is the problem. When there is time involved with a GFCI trip nine times out of ten it's because of a loose wire/connection i.e. the breaker is tripping thermally. Brandon@spokanespas.com

The correct capacitor set is available at the following link: http://ebay.com/itm/Sundance-Spas-800-850-Circuit-Board-Repair-Capacitor-Set-of-6-Spokane-Spas-/141758309284?nav=SEARCH Brandon@spokanespas.com

The correct capacitor set is available at the following link: http://ebay.com/itm/Sundance-Spas-800-850-Circuit-Board-Repair-Capacitor-Set-of-6-Spokane-Spas-/141758309284?nav=SEARCH Brandon@spokanespas.com

The correct capacitor set is available at the following link: http://ebay.com/itm/Sundance-Spas-800-850-Circuit-Board-Repair-Capacitor-Set-of-6-Spokane-Spas-/141758309284?nav=SEARCH Brandon@spokanespas.com

While the three flashing dots are present on display, check the circuit board bottom right corner for a red LED on solid. If LED present then high limit failure and likely sticking heater relay is the problem. This is a repairable failure. If no LED on pc board then pressure switch is sticking on after pump shuts off = bad pressure switch. Brandon@spokanespas.com

You may have a bad low speed relay on the circuit board or a blown pump1 fuse. Where were you measuring the voltage for pump1? If the pump was plugged in during the test you might be measuring the voltage potential across the motor winding which is present on both high and low speed terminals simultaneously. Unplug the pump and check for voltage at the pump receptacle between common and low speed then common and high speed. Assuming the pump is 240V, you should read 240V across common and low speed pins in low speed and then 240V across common and high speed pins when the jet button is pressed. The voltage reading should be 0V from common to low speed pins when the high speed jets are selected and vice versa. To check the pump fuse, power on the spa and test across the fuse with your voltmeter. If you measure 0V the fuse is good. If you measure 240V the fuse is bad - again assuming a 240V pump. brandon@spokanespas.com

It sounds like you have a stuck heater relay on the circuit board. Sorry you live so far away because this is a repairable failure - We're in Washington State U.S.A. - maybe you can find someone over there who repairs circuit boards? How much would it cost to send a board to the States? brandon@spokanespas.com

Is the Status/Heat indicator light on the spaside panel lit solid or flashing? If indicator is flashing the board is picking up a flow or high limit error. If it is solid then test across heater terminals - there should be 240V across the terminals. If there is not 240V then there is likely a problem with one or more relays on the board. This is a repairable failure. brandon@spokanespas.com

KevinMik, It sounds like a bad thermostat. The Spa Builders packs can also have a sticking/stuck heater relay (T-92 style relay) but I think the AP-1400 uses a double or single pole contactor relay which is less likely to stick closed. brandon@spokanespas.com

There are three separate error conditions that will cause ". . ." three flashing dots on a Gecko controller. The older Gecko controls have three individual alphanumeric codes for each error - "FLO", "FLC", and "HL" Two of the codes are water flow related and the other is a high limit error. The water flow codes appear when either the heat pump is on but low water flow is detected "FLO"/". . ." or the heat pump is off and water flow is still detected "FLC"/". . ." Most pressure switches used in portable spas should be adjusted to 2psi. Common causes for "FLO" are dirty filter, restricted water flow from debris in the heat pump impeller, non-working heat pump, and bad/miscalibrated pressure/flow switch. Common causes for "FLC" are bad/miscalibrated pressure/flow switch and heat pump relay sticking on. The high limit error, "HL" or ". . ." with illuminated red LED on the circuit board, occurs when the heater manifold temperature rises above aprox. 120 degrees F. The high limit error is differentiated from flow errors by the addition of the illuminated red LED on the circuit board. Check to see whether the circuit board LED is lit along with the ". . ." on the display. If this is the case it is likely that you either have a dirty filter or (most likely) the heater relay is sticking on and causing an overheat condition in the heater manifold. The relay failures are repairable. brandon@spokanespas.com

It sounds like there may have been a change to the DIP switches on the circuit board. Check that the DIP switches are configured correctly for all the outputs. There should be a switchbank illustration near the DIP switches or a diagram on the back of the circuit board enclosure cover that explains each switch position. WARNING: - Main power to system should be turned OFF before adjusting DIP switches. - Setting DIP switches incorrectly may cause abnormal system behavior and/or damage to system components. brandon@spokanespas.com

It sounds like there may have been a change to the DIP switches on the circuit board. Check that the DIP switches are configured correctly for all the outputs. There should be a switchbank illustration near the DIP switches or a diagram on the back of the circuit board enclosure cover that explains each switch position. WARNING: - Main power to system should be turned OFF before adjusting DIP switches. - Setting DIP switches incorrectly may cause abnormal system behavior and/or damage to system components. brandon@spokanespas.com

"dr" continued... The "dr" error code may also be caused by a sticking heater relay on the circuit board. If the relay is stuck closed upon boot the heater will energize before the heat pump has had a chance to come on and often boil the water in the heater manifold (hopefully there's water in there!) or worse dry fire i.e. no water in the tube. With this failure you can often hear a sizzle coming from the heater manifold upon boot. The heater relay may either be stuck closed permanently or stick occasionally - error may occur sporadically. This is a repairable failure. brandon@spokanespas.com

The "dr" error is usually related to a lack of adequate water flow in the heater circuit. Dirty filters are a common cause. To see if your filters are the culprit remove them, reboot, and see if the error code goes away. Another "dr" error cause is heater element replacement with the wrong size/shape element. If the distance between the M7 temperature probes and the heater element is too close the probes will wick too much heat from the element causing the error code. Make sure to purchase the correct replacement element for M7 systems. brandon@spokanespas.com

If the error occurs before the heat pump starts it is often a failed diode on the circuit board. The repair is quite inexpensive compared to the cost of a new circuit board. brandon@spokanespas.com

This error commonly occurs from a failed diode on the circuit board. The repair is quite inexpensive compared to the cost of a new board. brandon@spokanespas.com

When a GFCI trips it's always a good idea to check your GFCI wiring - even if it has never tripped before. Here's a GFCI wiring diagram. http://www.spokanespas.com/gfci.pdf