PreservedSwine

Congratulations, you've done the hard part! Finding the leak in one of these things requires serious patting yourself on the shoulder- well done. It's very difficult to repair that type of leak with an epoxy, I suggest just cutting the manifold out (and the "T" beneath it) and replacing it.

A perfect example of a small amount of knowledge is a dangerous thing. BEACHBUM, please do not try and help anyone. If you wish to end your own life, that's your business. But others expect people offering advice to know what they're doing, which you clearly do not.

The ready light is not a heat light. It's meant only to tell you the spa is near the set temp. It has nothing to do with the heater being on or off. The ready light will come on +- 2.5 degrees of set temp. So if the temp is set at 102.5 , the ready light will illuminate from 100--->105 degrees. The way it's acting is quite normal (the heater relays staying engaged when the ready light comes on) . You drained the spa to replace the pump, it's possible the ozone check valve swelled, or perhaps the filter just needs cleaning. Remove the filter dedicated to the 24 hour circ pump, if you don't get your bubbles back, try a new ozone check valve. OHM out the thermistors, see if they're Okay. Just because your issues appeared at the time of pump replacement doesn't necessarily mean the issues are connected, other than perhaps bumping into something, or moving a wire that shouldn't have any effect, but might simply due to the age of the unit.

If wired to the neutral bar, it will trip the breaker instantly. It needs to go to the neutral terminal on the 30 Amp breaker. Look closely at the breaker, there are three screw terminals, and one attached pigtail. 4 wires will be attached to the 30 amp breaker. (2) hot wires at the Hot terminals on the breaker, (1) neutral wire at the neutral terminal on the breaker, (1) PERMANENTLY attached pigtail that goes to the neutral bar.

At the subpanel that houses the 30 AMP and 20 AMP breakers, do you have the neutral wire that runs to the spa, hooked up to the neutral bar in the sub-panel, or to a terminal on the 30 AMP breaker?

F1 is the light fuse. Do you see 12v across the two prongs on J20 when the light is energized?

0.6 ppm is fine while you're in the spa. You'll add a bit more when exiting. If that's the threshold to keep her happy, you'll both enjoy it. And it's a far superior way to keep the water clean than biguainides. Just add your maintenance dose of chlorine AFTER each use. And use an ozone generator, in order to keep the need for shocking the water at a minimum. I love the idea of adding silver ions, but as chemgeek suggested, MPS can be more of an irritiant than chlorine. But even if you don't use MPS often, and may not be getting the maximum efficiency out of the silver; it will still be somewhat effective using chlorine as your main sanitizer. You'll need to drain the water a bit more often the keep the CYA from creeping up, but for an indoor spa, probably not a bad idea anyway. Give an occasional shock with MPS when not using it. Good luck!

There's usually a small glass fuse on that line on the main PCB. Look right next to the light harness on the PCB, there should be a small glass fuse. See if it's blown. Most light issues aren't blown fuses, or problems with the circuit board, but problems at the harness where the LED plugs into the harness. Sometimes you can just wiggle the light while in the harness and it will decide to work, provided there's voltage. Grab a volt meter, see if there's 12v present on the main PCB. If not, the problem is the fuse. If so, the issue is either the harness, or an intermittent short at the end of the harness where it plugs into the led, or an intermittent problem with the LED. You'll need a volt meter to narrow it down.

I second the Doctor's sage advice. Additionally, check for signs of overheated, or burned wires/connections at the 50 Amp breaker that trips, as well as where the wires from the 50 Amp breaker connect at the subpanel that houses the 50 Amp GFCI breaker.

Great to hear Enjoy

I'd have to see the back. Does it have a nut, or a body, on the rear? If it has a nut, it will not unscrew. If it has a body, it will unscrew.

When troubleshooting basic components, it's fairly simple. Is the component getting power? (This is where you test for voltage to the circ pump) If it is getting power, does it work? If not, buy a new one.

Bromine is roughly 80% chlorine, has more of an odor, and is far more acidic. If you're going to bromine to be chlorine free, I'd suggest a different path. Chlorine comes in many different chemical compounds, when used properly, it has no odor. But, it sounds as though it doesn't matter, bromine isn't chlorine, it's in the same halogen chemical family, it smells worse and is more corrosive, but it's not chlorine. Indoors, I would NOT recommend it. You might want to research biguanides. I would normally not recommend them, but it may be what your looking for.

I was referring to only the 1/4" or 1/8" ozone tubing, not the 3/4" or 1/2" spa water tubing. If sounds as though you're referring to the circ pump plumbing/ tubing. Don't worry about Ozone or chemical depletion of that tubing, or replacement of the water tubing. The ozone is so diluted at that point, it will have no effect on the tubing. It is also extremely resilient to water chemistry damage, and does not need periodic replacment. The ozone tubing, however, will need replacement every few years.

Silicone will hold up much longer than any O-ring or gaskets. Never use both Gaskets and silicone, only use one or the other.

It won' be in contact with water often, as any time the spa is powered the tubing will be full of ozone, and not water. That being said, the Hardware store tubing will degenerate over time, as does the tubing from Watkins, and need replacement every few years.

yes.

Sounds like a clogged filter, circ pump needs a prime, or a bad circ pump. Your spa incorporates a small, 24 hour circulation pump that runs in obscurity, all the time, as soon as the spa is energized. It only moves about 3 gallons of water per minute. If it fails to move water, the heater subsequently overheats after 20 seconds to a minute or so, causing the red power light to flash, shutting down the spa. It will reset by turning off the power, and turning it back on, after the heater has cooled. Is this something you want to fix yourself?

Use any vinyl tubing. Hot Springs has used different types of tubing, from different manufactures over the years. I have not noticed much of a difference between them, and the stuff you can get from the hardware store.

One possibility, iron is a common component of sand, and will stain the rovel shell as it corrodes, in tiny specs. A little baking soda and a scotch-brite pad will get rid of the stains. If you've had recent aluminum screen work on your porch, it can leave tiny specs of aluminum from all the self tapping screws, that get picked up by feet and brought into the spa as well. There will be small amounts of corrosion growing on your heater element over time, but the flow from the 24 hour circ pump is so small, that corrosion typically stays in the heater body.

You were just speaking with the resource. But don't lose any sleep over not having zone in that spa, you wouldn't notice anyway. Adding ozone in that spa would require hours of re-plumbing, for zero benefit. Ozone leaves behind no residual.That spa only runs thermostatically, so a normal ozone unit would only be adding ozone while the spa is heating. Depending on your climate, and temp setting, that could be almost nothing, up to a couple hours a day. For ozone to be effective, it should be added 24/7 (easily done with spas that incorporate a 24/7 circ pump) Adding ozone for an hour or two a day would not have an impact on your water chemistry, or maintenance routine. Don't worry about it, grab some silver ions, and enjoy. If you absolutely, *must* have an ozone generator in the spa, find one that incorporates a small air pump. Mount it outside of the spa, several feet above the water level, power it with a GFCI protected outlet, and toss the end of the tubing (where the ozone is forced out) into the bottom of the tub. Will only take a moment, will off-gas badly, but might be what you're looking for.

Double post

Thanks Doc, as long as we know the year, we're on the same page A and B are the coil terminals. You should get 12v dc across A and B. The relay is borked. Once you replace it, the heater will energize, and if it's good, you'll be heating

You didn't give your serial number, so I can't confirm that's the one you need, but I can assure you that the part you linked is NOT the part you need. That's an electronic high limit, if it fails, it shuts down the entire spa. In order to accurately troubleshoot, I need you serial number. If memory serves correct, they stopped making the highlife in 1996, so lets assume you have a 95 or a 96. If that's the case, you don't have heater circuit board. You just have a couple relays. Depending on the serial number, probably 12v dc coil T-92's, part number 34321. Check voltage to the coil while trying to heat. If it's 12v dc, the relay just needs replacement. Very inexpensive fix

Most likely, bad heater PCB, but you'll need to confirm source voltage is good from the breaker that is dedicated to the heater circuit. Ensure you're getting 240v between terminals 1 and 3 on the main terminal block. If you are, replace the heater PCB, assuming you have one. Also of note, there is no neutral running to your heater if it's 240v. Only two hots and a ground.