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Rubicon01

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  1. Thanks for the replies everyone! I will look into these suggestions. Much appreciated!
  2. Ok I heard 8 ohms to 15 is good for the heater so I will check that and see what I get. As for checking the power to the heater when calling for heat, I assume you mean at the heater itself or am I checking the output of the relay or somewhere on the main board? Is the relay part of the main board? Thanks for everyone's input
  3. 2013 tub; no error codes on display. "Rarely will a heater be the reason a Hot Spring doesnโ€™t heat." ... what do you mean by this? Its not heating so wouldn't the heater itself be a likely culprit?
  4. Really all those views and no replies or feedback?! ๐Ÿ˜ ... No one has any experience with the above? Thanks ๐Ÿ™‚
  5. My circ pump went out a month or so ago. Leaked the tub down to about half full before I noticed and ran to shut the breakers off. I then drained the tub since a water change was needed anyways and I needed to order part. It's been cold here in the north east and never realized I might have needed to do more than just a drain since I was not going to refill right away. My friend said something about blowing out the lines etc to ensure it was fully drained and empty for freezing of the lines could crack. Well did none of that and now I went to change the part out on a warm February day in the low 50s here and after refilling and doing the priming of the Jets as indicated in the manual, all seemed fine. The circ pump was showing water movement in the center of tub and it sounded to be running fine after turning off the Jets. I then flipped on the breaker for the heater and I hear a click but it never gets hot to the touch nor does the tempature of the water go up... Staying at 50 degrees. I saw a video about ensure there is no air lock or something in the heater and I tried removing the hose going into the body of the tub coming from the heater to ensure flow and it was flowing fine gushing out hard and fast. In pulling the hose off my hand broke the small hose nipple on the elbow of the circ pump and wind up having to drain the tub again... What a waste of 500 gal of water and what a bad design of that stupid elbow with nipple... Waiting to happen and it sure did. So I know I can test the heater with a ohms meter for 8 to 20 or so ohms as still good heater but need to pick up a meter. But does it sound like my heater went because of the half drain tub on the bad circ pump? Is there anything else to try once I replace the elbow nipple? Filters are cleaned fyi and only a year or so old. Also after stating to fill up the tub I saw some black residue in the water at the floor drain. I then quickly stopped filling, drained that little bit of water and then restarted the fill. I still saw more black residue on the next fill up but much less. Thanks in advance! J
  6. Update... Well after two weeks of new water and chemicals it seems the Ace system is making its own chlorine. I haven't used it in those two weeks to ensure bathers are not a factor in the amount of Free Chlorine available. Started it up with 3 cap fills (6 teaspoons) of Chlorine. During the first week it was on setting 4 and second week it is on setting 3 and its at 6.8 FC end of week 2. Seems the water was the issue. I still sear it was the junk that got in the water from cleaning up the dried up residue around the diverter valve or at the very least something else that may have been in the rag I used which I thought was clean. Will check it at the end of this week for its 3rd week with no bathers and turn it down more if necessary... and hopefully use it! Thanks PreservedSwine for your input and others!
  7. Thanks for all the replies and insight PreservedSwine. I hear you that changing the water is a good next step to solving this issue so I will be scheduling that into my life chores this month as it will be an early water change but I don't want to be changing the water mid winter here in CT either. I can only say that I am pretty confident that the oily residue on the water was not there the day of diverter valves replacement. It was the days after the part change and my cleaning of the acrylic around the valves. I have also at the request of the mfg increased the output to 6 to see what effect that has and will be testing the water today a week from when I bumped it up to 6 and tested zero chlorine and added 6 teaspoons of chlorine. I will let you know how it turns out.
  8. The water was replaced at the start of may. It was working fine for two weeks with new chemicals and water on setting 3. Then the issue with check cell call service on display. They come out and say need a new cell. Then they take another 4 weeks to figure out they are going to replace the cell free of charge so now its mid June. They replace the ace cell and diverters. They come back the following week because one valve is still making noise and they replace it a second time and leaving a mess behind with oring oil on the acrylic. During this time I don't know if the cell is really working or not because I've been adding chlorine since its been offline, however I begin to stop adding chlorine to let the ace keep up on its own. I left the setting on 3 and continue to monitor this for the coming weeks and months. During this time I noticed its not working so I continue to monitor and bump it up to 4 while manually super chlorinating each week I find no chlorine in the tub. When they left the second visit to replqce the second diverter valve again this is when I started cleaning the acrylic with a rag. I know for a fact that that residue got in the water as the rag fell in a few times. In the coming days that's when I noticed the filmy substance on the top of the water. Maybe it didn't take 3 months to totally clear up but it did take a good two months. It's almost impossible to think any other contaminant did this to the water other than the oring oil as we weren't using the tub during the time of the service calls before and after. So even if we were to say it is the oring oil could that be depleting the chlorine? Is it also not possible that it's the controller not telling the cell to turn on when it should?
  9. Sorry this was a duplicated message of the previous reply...
  10. Sorry this was a duplicated message of the previous reply...
  11. Ozone generator is in the tub physically but not connected or plumbed in so its not playing a part in this. It was the oring grease that was on the tub acrylic, its not from the water or the previous water leaving behind a residue issue after the refill. I am a 100% sure it was from the oring grease as it was all around the diverter valve after he changed it. I am meticulous at keeping my tub clean around the perimeter of it after bathing so much so that I wipe it down with a dry microfiber, so I know that dried up residue was from the tech changing the diverter valve and leaving a mess. I also know that it was only found in the vicinity of the diverter valve and no where else along the perimeter. It only took about 5 minutes of good scrubbing the acrylic to remove with some water but took 2.5 months for the top layer of water to stop showing a oily film that it contaminated by my scrubbing and the rag dripping into the tub water.
  12. Hi All... My HS Grandee is not making chlorine via the ACE system. Yes its all going down hill since the first cell replacement after only 2 years of trouble free operation of the ACE system. Hot tub is 2 yrs 1 month old. First cell died just 2 months shy of the 2 year mark. This was about a month after I had done the flush and refill procedure with new chemicals and water. I got the message saying Cell Offline \ Call Service etc. It was troubleshooted by dealer and deemed a bad cell. How they determined this was a bad cell was the tech said the metal inside the cell holes looked black and that was a sign of a bad cell. OK please warranty the cell I asked. Watkins initially wouldn't warranty it as they said it will only last an avg 1.5 years and so I was within that range and the warranty is only for 1 yr. I told them I was not given that info from the salesman and was told more like 4 to 5 yr life expectancy. Nevertheless Watkins worked it out with me to replace the cell free of charge. Kudos to them. New cell goes in along with two new diverter valves for my noisy complaint about them. Some oring grease from the diverter valves job got in the water and cleared up over the past few months while the new cell has been in. After the diverter valves were replaced the oring oil was dried up on the spa acrylic and I used a damp towel to scrub it off. Some of this then got into the water. I could see a small film on the water surface for several weeks. Now about 3 months later its gone. Since the cell replacement, just slightly under 3 months ago now, I have not been able to get the system to make enough chlorine to sustain 3-5 ppm free chlorine. This is also with little to no bather usage during this time. We have gone in the tub only a handful of times since the cell replacement. We are only two people and bath about 30 mins at most. Every week since the cell replacement I have had to super shock it with about 5 teaspoons of chlorine at which point the dip strip registers a high chlorine level. A week later its at 0 or almost 0. Those are weeks without any bather usage either. If I go in the tub that week I compensate say another 2 teaspoons and still a week later 0 chlorine. This is with the output set to 4. I have had the first two years of ownership with the original cell and never needed to put it past a 4 to keep up with our usage and maintain a 3-5 ppm free chlorine. And with the less than normal usage this summer I surely shouldn't have to go higher now. At one point during these past months of having the new cell and having no luck keeping a residual level I tried double super shocking it with 10 teaspoons and still no difference. A week later or maybe slightly more I was back at 0 with all settings constant ... set to 4 output. All my other readings are fine too. PH, ALK, CH are in spec and Salt is a little high around 1700 - 2000 ppm. Filters were cleaned at the start of the new water fill up and then once after the new cell \ diverters were replaced which was only about 2.5 months after the new water fill up. Dealer has been back out to troubleshoot and was told to do voltage tests on ACE and they were fine. They also observed that after boost was initiated that the cell appeared to be giving off a gas in the water \ filter compartment. They were not told to do a bucket test. Instead I was given this suggestion by a HS rep after the dealer was not getting any results from Watkins on what was the next step to solving our issue. Why didn't Watkins tell the dealer to do the bucket test ... I have no idea. So I did the bucket test and it proved the cell is making chlorine in the bucket when boost is initiated. So to me it seems maybe this is a controller issue where the cell isn't being told to "TURN ON" when it should based on the output setting. Is it just coincidence that I could have a bad controller after the cell had died?, or is this a normal progression after a bad cell? Or is this not a controller issue and instead something in the water that is killing off the Chlorine faster than it can make it? What that is I have no idea as we haven't been using it as much as in the past two summers and we had the water tested by the dealer and nothing unusual came up. I even asked about the CYA buildup and it wasn't high according to the dealer. I have been using a Taylor kit ever since we got the tub so I know my chemistry has been tested properly from the start. I have only used the dip strips during this crazy 3 months to quickly see if chlorine is in the water and in most cases reverified it with the Taylor kit. At this point we are waiting for Watkins to tell us and the dealer what is the next step. What do you guys think? Any help greatly appreciated. Thanks...
  13. I thought I heard you could just use the normal dish detergent with the filters in the dishwasher. This is what I just did with no issues. Our dishwasher uses low heat for drying, mostly steam dries.
  14. Hi All... This is my second year owning our 2013 Hot Spring Grandee and I seem to have a 20 Amp Breaker problem. From the first day of ownership, which is about a year ago August, I had issues with one of the jet pumps and the 20 amp breaker full tripping after fill up. I discussed those issues in the following thread (http://www.poolspaforum.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=45162) as I though it was related to the OP. It turned out after the 1st service call visit that the jet pump issue was supposedly incorrect wiring on the circuit board and the 20 amp full tripping was thought to be a loose heater wire. Short time after that then it tripped again and finally they came for a 2nd service call visit, they claimed the heater was giving some incorrect readings so they swapped it out in hopes that finally cured the 20 amp full trip. Year went by with no more issues with the breaker. Well this year I drained and refilled the tub, followed same procedures as last year to fill it and guess what?, it is tripping again. It has tripped now twice since the fill up, however it has now managed to stay on for 2 days since I last reset it. Therefore it seems to be focused around fill up time. The only thing I can guess is the breaker is not tripping now because its at temp and able to keep temp without much heater interaction. I suspect if I were to drain and refill it a 3rd time, as in next year or 8 mos from now, I will have the same issue. I called my dealer and they are giving me the line that they cant warranty the breaker unless they can prove its truly broken and I am like what does that mean for me cause I truly have a problem here that needs to be addressed once and for all and not keep occurring every year at drain and fill up time. I suggested they swap the 20 amp breaker for a new one just to be safe and they said Watkins wont pay for it if its not broken. The dealer said they were going to call Watkins techs to see if there is anything else troubleshooting wise they could do to figure out for sure if its the breaker or maybe the heater again?, or something else? I spent very good money on one of the top 5 hot tubs and this should not be happening. I feel like I'm getting the run around about we have to prove its broken to get Watkins to pay for the breaker... its a load of BS. Any help appreciated!
  15.    Well just to follow up, the dealer never made the 2nd service call. Since the breaker hasn't tripped again, they aren't too worried about it. However they told me they would come back out just for peace of mind but still haven't after a month has gone by since I reported it. They keep giving me the run around it seems. I guess I have to lie to them and say it tripped a 3rd time so they really come out... but I am just going to let it fly since it has been ok now for 4 weeks. Doesn't speak well to their business though, they don't honor their word.
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