PreservedSwine

All 2 speed spa pumps have the same rpm (1725/3450). If the motor is not noisy, replacing it will a smaller pump to be quieter might be a solution, although you would have less pressure at the jets on both low, and high speeds. Does the dealer sell a premium line of spas? Since it's brand new, would the dealer consider returning it for a more expensive, premium spa with a 24 hour silent circ pump?

Pump noise can come from the pump, or cabinet vibration. If it's the pump motor, simply ask them to replace it. It shouldn't be noisy on low speed. If it's pump vibration causing the cabinet to resonate, it can be challenging to repair. Most pumps, even the cheap made in China ones, are pretty quiet. The cabinet vibration, however, can be quite loud. A new pump won't solve that problem, but it can be overcome with rubber or foam insulation under the pump base.

Hot Springs doesn't sell capacitors. They sell pumps. If the cap is bad, Hot Spring repair = new pump. Take the pump to a pump repair shop, or, replace the pump.

Fix the jets and the water back-flow problem vanishes. The rubber stopper can whistle a very annoying sound, it looks as though someone just yanked it out. I would fix the jets, which would make replacing the AFC valve unnecessary.

I'm not referring to the ACT, I'm referring to the fact that you don't know what you're doing. The fact that we just stumbled across previous mistakes led me to believe were many more, some deadly, that you might make, such as this one. It is irresponsible, and dangerous, of you to continue. I strongly urge you to stop doing this on your own. If you value your life, and the lives of anyone who will be in the spa, just stop.

You're going to kill someone. I can longer help you. Hire someone. A single suction for either of those pumps is beyond dangerous.

Either pump would be fine. They're both quality, and move enough water to avoid any temp sensor quagmire on the M-7's. Are the pumps going to be above the water level? If so, consider skipping the circ pump. Plumb in one of the 5HP's through the Balboa pack, just use a 2sp pump. You'll need baskets on both jet pumps if they're above the water level. If you use a circ pump, it will need the basket as well, assuming it too will be above the water level. Priming those is going to be a royal pain. The baskets attach directly to the pumps. **How many suction's are you plumbing in for each 5 HP pump?

Any pump can develop an air lock, it has nothing to do with pump design. It has to do with where does the air go that's trapped in the plumbing as you fill the spa. An air lock like this is only a potential issue each time you drain and refill the spa. The basket you linked to is for pool equipment that is above the waterline, and is not meant for use with your circ pump, or in any spa for that matter. The M-7 balboa pack's are great, as they can be placed before or after the pump. But I urge you to check with the manufacturer of the filter. I've never heard of a pressure filter being used on the vacuum side of a pump. Many manufacturers place the circ pump after the filter, but NONE of them use a pressure filter, as the one you have linked. Also, make sure the circ pump you choose has high enough volume for the M7 pack. Good luck! *** How many intakes for each 5HP pump are you using?

Additionally, the basket (waterway lint trap) attaches to the front of the pump, it is meant to help the pump maintain a prime, as well as protect the pump from leaves. It's not meant to be installed separately. I applaud anyone looking to save a buck, but these types of errors simply shouldn't happen, and I suspect there could be more unspoken bad idea's we're not aware of, that will end up costing you more time and money to correct, than simply hiring someone to do it right the first time. Do yourself a favor- hire a pro to hold your hand and design a system for you. Or perhaps buy or just copy a pre-made pack with individual components. Don't re-invent the wheel. Jet pressure is a product of volume. You're not changing the volume of water in any shape, way, or form, where you place the spa-pack in relation to the pump. You want pressure at the jets. Placing the pump after all the equipment reduces the vacuum, and you'll end up with no more pressure at the jets than if you place the pump before all the equipment.

Double post

That style filter is typically a pressure filter. You may want to check with the manufacturer to ensure it will still function properly on the vacuum side of the pump. I'm trying to recall if I've ever seen one installed on the vacuum side, but every one I've seen has been on the pressure side.

Its a matter of convenience over savings. I wouldn't use sleep mode as it turns the heater off completely, and heating from scratch in the winter time could take quite a while.

Tighten or replace the inner jet fittings. The afc valve is fine, don't mess with it. A vacuum is created at each jet, and the valve simply allows air to be sucked into the vacuum created at the jets. If there is no vacuum, the problem is at the jets, not the valve.

Double post

The circuit-board is interpreting the resistance value of the temp senors as out of range. Are there other possibilities other than bad temp sensors? You bet. Make sure the temp sensor harness didn't become loose, or unplugged during the move. Unplug and plug them in a few times, it may just be a little corrosion on the harness. It's possible the circuit-board is the problem and not the sensors, but the sensors are a great place to start if the previous tips don't help.

Sounds like the jet pump shaft is not turning. The Jetsetter almost never develops an air lock, they virtually always prime when you fill them. My opinion: The pump either needs to be repaired or replaced.

The Ozone generator that came with it was 120v. If you take the cover off the IQ2020, you'll see the ozone flag terminals labeled on the bottom right.

There was a tiny nipple on the back of the moto, not really sure what the purpose was so high up, perhaps they just wanted a little circulation in there. The replacement nipple part number is 30598, and you'll need a 19/64" drill bit to drill out the old nipple. Hardware store tubing is fine.

Good chance it's just a bad thermistor. Keep your fingers crossed.

Just to confirm: lim ok is lit (green) control unplugged is not lit, And the red power led still flashing?

Look on the IQ2000 for some LED's on the upper middle of the control box. Look for "Lim OK" and "CNTRL UNPLUGGED" see if either, or neither is lit. Also, take OHM readings of the thermistors.

Modern portable spas typically remain at the temperature you have set them to, 24 hours a day. So you don't need to turn on a 120v unit in the morning to have it ready in the evening. In the winter, it may even take several days to get hot (gains of about 2 degrees per hour) if you allowed it to cool. 120v spas will take much longer to heat (about 4x as long), but once they're hot, they stay just as hot as a 240v spa. The main difference that Loop mentioned is the ability to gain heat about 4x as fast, and, you gain the ability to heat the water while the jets are on full force. On a mild winter day, with a temp in the 50's or below, you'll appreciate this convenience. Is it worth the additional cost of the elec run? This really depends on your climate. If you many cool nights, it's probably worth it. If you live in a tropical climate, probably not worth it.

There is no shaft on the circ pump that heats the spa. The circ pump runs continuous, in obscurity, moving roughly 3 gallons per minute in silence. The large pump is not involved in heating the water. If the high limit is trippig, it means the heater is working. But the circulation pump is suspect. It may well be broken, or the filter clogged. The jets may be pulsing for several different reasons. The first to rule out is a dirty filter, floating weir ring could be stuck, and make sure there's enough water in the spa. As far as the leaks, you'll need to see exactly where it's leaking.

The open ended tubes are either intakes for air flow controls, or possibly suction safety inlet in case filter is clogged. Probably a faulty air intake check valves (70289), the same valve is used on both. Not all jets are running when the pump is on, so no vacuum on the leaky ones when the pump is running. If there's a divirter valve, turn it, see if the leak vanishes. Buying a new spa for such a simple, inexpensive problem is absurd, and the dealer should be scolded. Ask him why you should buy anything from him if he's not capable of fixing it when it breaks.

By any chance, are you using chlorine tablets and a feeder?