JerimiahR

$7,000 for a new Aria? That's a stupid price if you ask me. But extremely in your favor. It's worth a lot more than that. I'd just ask if that was brand new, or if it was previously owned. If it's previously owned, it would make more sense as the original factory warranty is only good for the first owner. If that's a brand new, never owned spa with a full warranty, you need to gobble that up like right now.

We use the Spadolly for our deliveries most of the time. It works pretty well. The Spadolly cart that attaches to the back is probably what we use the most. Makes hot tub deliveries a piece of cake compared to what they could be. Admittedly however, on days when we're delivering 2 to 3 spas at once, we have a 16' and 24' trailer we can use that are standard flat trailers.

Buy local. It's really the only safe bet. Not to mention, you can get local support later on, which will come in handy should you ever need it. If you look through some older threads, you'll find people that have posted here whom tried to purchase spas through eBay and other places. You ALWAYS take a risk buying anything from anyone on eBay. Keep that in mind.

I'd recommend having someone qualified look at the deck. Contractor or carpenter or someone of that nature. That way you have someone who builds decks giving you the advice, versus someone who just wants to sell you a product. As far as hot tubs go, find a local dealer for Hot Spring, Sundance, someone like that. Many times salesmen will offer a free in home consultation (which can be helpful) but they're not always required. Before you set up an in home visit though, I'd strongly recommend you visit their showroom and talk to them on their turf. At least this way you can get a feel for them, and decide if you're comfortable working with them before you give out your home address.

Craig's List is a free, easy, and generally very fast way to get interest. eBay charges you money, and it based on a bidding war usually. Craig's List is less involved, you can post as many pictures as you want, and folks seem to use it a lot. The more details you can provide, and pictures (clean your spa first!!!!!!) the better. Don't do like some folks though. I've seen way, way to many Craig's List postings for hot tubs that look like they just got dragged out of a swamp. If it's empty, wash it out. If it's full, get the water crystal clear first.

Hi there icewoz. In your visits to the Hot Spring dealers, did any of them have their Tiger River or Limelight models on display? The seating styles are different in those two model lines, and some of my customers really end up liking the difference. Definitely sit in the hot tubs (even if they are empty). But keep in mind, full of water, every seat will feel a bit different since something like 80% of your body becomes buoyant in a spa. You might also look up your local Sundance Spa dealer. They make a pretty good spa too.

Generally you can indeed place the spa up on it's side. However, with the wood siding be careful what it sits on. If the wood siding is in great shape it may not be a big deal. However if that wood siding is not in great shape, you could risk wood panels being damaged. We like to lay down a thick moving blanket, or cardboard or something just to keep from scratching up the side of the spa (especially the shell). As far as the winter goes, we really haven't had any need to do anything with them. Just make sure you keep it full of water, and the power on. *Importantly however, don't drain your spa in the winter months unless you intend to refill it immediately there after. Even leaving a spa overnight in sub-freezing temperatures can cause potential freeze damage to parts.

That should be a 1992 Hot Spring Highlife. Should not be very much to keep it heated through your winters. The Hot Spring Spas are pretty heavily insulated, so it'll retain it's heat pretty well. As far as filters go, those should be pretty easy to replace. If you have a Hot Spring dealer nearby, I'm sure they'll have some available. If not, any spa dealer should be able to order some for you. The replacement part number you want is a Unicel C-6430, and you should have 4 of them in that spa I believe. As far as the filter cover is concerned, you'll want to either contact your local Hot Spring dealer, or you can call Watkins Manufacturing (makers of Hot Spring) directly and ask about that. I know in some cases we have been able to get filter lids for customers. Though I'm not sure how readily available one is for a 1992. Watkins Manufacturing 1-800-999-4688 X 8432 As far as your patio being off level. If you're 1 to 2 inches difference from one side of the spa to the other, I'd recommend having it leveled. Ultimately though, you'll just need to make sure your water levels are always high enough that they naturally spill into the filter compartment. All the water for filtration and heating purposes is pulled through that area.

Your comparison with the Nissan Maxima makes no sense. Let's compare apples to apples. I'm sorry you've had bad experience where you're at, but frankly our experience in Montana has been completely different. It's part of why we CHOOSE to sell Hot Spring only. And it's part of why we only move & service Hot Spring. Why is Hot Spring changing to plastic bottoms on some new models? I wish I got to make those decisions. But it has more to do with the new internal structure than it does anything else.

Before you call someone a liar, check your facts. The diagram you provided above, does not clearly show the water being pulled in through the bypass was going through either of those filters. You provided the image, I didn't. If in fact that water is sucked in through the bypass, and then fed through the filter, Marquis should consider redrawing that diagram. You're not representing your filter system the way it should be. If it is a 100% no-bypass, show that so people will see it. After all, you need to make it obvious if it's going to be a selling feature. It's interesting to me though, to see other hot tub companies pick up on things Hot Spring has done for a long time. And as far as the Hot Spring base is concerned. Have you seen very many of them after 15 or 20 years? Because they aren't the "rotted out" image that waylon33 suggests. I'm talking about Hot Spring spas in Montana, where we rain through spring and summer, and snow from October to June. Truth be told though, there are currently 2 Hot Spring models (Vanguard and Aria) which have a plastic base under them. Also, the three Limelight models (made by Hot Spring) also have a plastic base under them. Even still, I personally prefer the old Hot Spring method. It's rigid, can be handled in ways other spas sometimes cannot be, and stands the test of time even in our relatively harsh climate. Point is, there are different methods. "Plastic" is not simply superior. You simply told the original poster that they had to look for a sealed plastic base on a hot tub. That's typically what salesman say when they feel threatened by Hot Spring in my experience. I'm disappointed by some of you "spa professionals" on these forums to be honest. There's a level of immaturity here that startles me. One person doesn't like my passion for Hot Spring, and starts throwing around the Kool Aid logo, while others tend to use scare tactics like suggesting rotten hot tub bases.

There's been some debate over how the CEC requires the testing to be performed. To the extent that, if I recall correctly, larger hot tubs (more gallons of water) actually have a statistical advantage over smaller (less gallons) hot tubs. However, you can view the details here: http://www.energy.ca.gov/appliances/databa...ectric_Spas.zip

Check your inbox. I sent you a private message. This forum thread is not the place for this.

Aha! I was told there was a way to have the temp show on the display via jumpers, but could never find out what jumper. Now, the question is, how can I tell if I have a Phase 1 display or not? My tub is an 08 Vanguard....somehow I got that feeling it's not a phase 1. Thanks, Ran Ran, The 2008 Vanguard would be equivalent to the Phase 1 we're talking about. Phase 1 and Phase 2 are specific to the 2009 Hot Spring models, and some mid year changes that took place.

I'm not sure who my "big brother Term" is. Perhaps you can enlighten to as to whom my long lost sibling is. And if you have an innate problem with the fact that I truly love the Hot Spring product, and the fact that I truly think it's a better quality product than anything else I've seen.... wait till you hear what I have to say about Jesus Christ. Point being, if you believe in something, go for it. Because if you don't go for it completely, you're kidding yourself and everyone around you.

Hey Peteyboy. I was checking out your dealer website, and read a few of your testimonials. You guys have a salesman named Jeremiah? That's just hilarious. I rarely meet someone who shares my name, let alone another Hot Spring salesman.

The new structure will take a little getting used too. Of course delivering the spa isn't exactly the same as it used to be. The way Hot Spring Spas have always been built, they've just been extremely versatile for setup. I do however really like the idea that the structure is recyclable. But as I mentioned in another thread, I prefer the old Hot Spring style base better. Plastic bottoms have their high points, but they also have their low points. As far as the Phase 2 controls, I do like them. Though I can see how the older generation (or even long time Hot Spring owners) will have to relearn how to use the controls. The 1997 to 2009 control panel was extremely simple to use. But like all things, there comes a time to update. The new controls obviously give us the ability to design new features into the spa. But be glad we still don't have required programming! No filter cycles, no clock, no filter reminder reset, etc!

Water Boy: You realize this is a forum where folks come to ask serious questions, about purchases they intend to make with large sums of money, yes? I'll bet you these folks expect a small amount of maturity from those of us who give them input. Rather than try to blast one another, let's simply stick to giving them honest answers and let them decide what makes sense to them.

That's a pretty snazzy looking diagram I have to admit. However, it's really the same filtration system everyone uses (except Hot Spring). Some of the water gets pulled through filters, and some of it is pulled right into the pump without being filtered. It works fine, but isn't the best. I sell spas that filter just like that. Frankly though, if filtration was a key issue to someone, the No-Bypass system Hot Spring uses is going to be the better choice. Simply put, none of the water goes through your pumps, heater, or jets, until it's passed through the filters first. Period. There are no "safety suction fitting" in the bottom of the spa. All the water is pulled through your filter compartment, and not from anywhere else. As for Markee's list of items to look for: Filtration: This is important. You determine what makes sense to you. Fit & Finish: Not everything that looks nice is. But looking good is important. Energy Efficiency: For most people, I think this is a pretty big deal these days. Therapy System: Sit in it. See if you like the jets. Forget about snazzy marketing lingo. How does it feel? Spa Base: Plastic Bottom? That's all about opinion. I sell spas with plastic bottoms, and without. Honestly, I prefer my Hot Spring line (which has no plastic bottom) over my plastic bottom models. They're simply much more versatile, can be placed on more/different foundations, and are generally much better insulated. I honestly like the base on the Hot Spring a lot better. If you want reasons why, send me a message and I'd be happy to provide for details. Otherwise, I'd rather not create a bickering match on the forums. Warranty: I think the company behind the warranty has more to do with the warranty itself. Many of them are pretty similar. Though I'd suggest the Hot Spring warranty is the easiest to deal with and understand. Very little 'fine print'. Local Dealer: Dealer is a big issue. Make sure they're knowledgeable. They need to know their own product well, and be able to answer your questions. These are the guys you'll rely on for technical support throughout the following years. Hopefully they've been in business for a number of years, and have a good reputation locally.

While I agree with your method, I disagree with it's application. Let's face it, we Americans are generally pretty lazy these days. Even if it does only take an hour's worth of work, it usually becomes a "I'll do it later." Eventually, you forget about it, and it never gets done. My experience has shown me that most of the wood sided hot tubs don't get taken care of, and therefore the climate beats them up pretty badly. The longer you wait, the more work it takes to make it look pretty again. If you're a wood craftsman like my father in law, and retired, then do real wood. Synthetic cabinets are all about low maintenance. If that's what you want, the synthetic cabinets these days are pretty decent. Though even synthetic products have their limits. They used Trex (or similar) decking material at Old Faithful in Yellowstone National park. And it's starting to show some weathering. Course we're talking extreme climate (hot and cold) and lots of sulfur and other chemicals in the air, water, and soil.

Yes, and it's absolutely beautiful if I might say so. Before you view it however, make sure you have the latest Adobe Flash Player installed on your web browser.

Thanks Pete. I do know about that trick. But we generally don't do it. Never really had an issue with the older controls not giving "actual temp". Considering the "ready" light only comes on within 2 degrees of the actual temp anyhow. Most folks never seem to mind.

The big question for all of this is whether it's a warranty issue or not. If it's something covered by the original manufacturer's warranty, you generally won't pay anything. If it's not a warranty issue, the dealer is going to charge you something for coming out. I know we don't charge a fee for warranty service, as the manufacturer pays us to perform that work for you.

If you installed a different jet pump than was originally installed, it may frankly be pulling a higher amperage. This alone can cause your breaker to trip if you're pulling more amps than it's rated for (in fact it SHOULD shut off if you do that, for safety reasons). If your breaker and wiring is rated for 20 amps for instance, and you're pulling 25 amps, you can start a fire potentially if that breaker doesn't trip off. The wire will get way to hot and become a hazard. You may want to contact your local Hot Spring dealer for help with regards to the electrical setup of your particular model. Your forum name suggests you're in Tucson, Az perhaps? (I used to live there actually!) If so, here's your dealer's info: Tucson Pool & Spa 170 North Harrison Tucson, AZ 85748 520- 296-0993 If you have a "Model Z", it's probably a "Hot Spot Round" (1993 to 2002). These were indeed made by Hot Spring.

Nice!! I'll bet you're super excited. Can't wait to hear about your first soak in your new spa. I'll bet it feels great.

1) Wood requires constant maintenance. Period. Stain, sand, repeat. Synthetic requires a blast from the hose now and again to wash it off. The synthetic cabinets these days do very well to be honest. Most of the premature fading issues have been worked out. Personally, I'd just stay away from wood cabinets simply because they are a chore. 2) Full Foam vs "Hot Box": Look at it this way. You just remodeled your house. Let's say you were even building a brand new house. If the builder/contractor said, "Well, we can fill the walls with insulation, or we can re-route your furnace to heat the hollow space in the walls." Which would you do? Here's the other problem with using your jet pump heat to actually "heat the dead space". Those pumps, as they admit, turn on and off intermittently. So you're not heating that space all the time in the first place. As far as using the wasted heat to benefit your spa. Hot Spring actually has a patented "Heat Shroud" they use for their jet pumps. Basically, the same heat other companies claim heats the dead empty space, is actually pulled off the jet pump, and used to heat the air being injected into your jets. All hot tubs use air to allow you to adjust jet pressure feel. The difference is, where that heat comes from. Hot Spring has hot/warm air, others pull air from outside. 3) Jet Pump Cycles vs Circulation Pump: You can either have a very, very low power circulating pump that filters water 24/7, and never makes annoying noise. Or, you can use a large jet pump that turns on and off throughout the day and night, using more energy, and creating more wear and tear on the pump itself. Ultimately, that's the two camps. Hot Spring specifically, uses a circulation pump that's rated at using 39W per it's label. Jet pumps vary depending on size, but guaranteed you'll spend more on energy (and replacing the pump in a shorter time period). 4) I work with and sell Hot Spring Spas here in Bozeman, MT. We're about 5,000 feet elevation, and generally a colder/harsher climate than parts of Colorado. Synthetic cabinets and such used to fade pretty badly years ago. But in all honesty, I've seen 4 and 5 year old Hot Spring Spas that look as good as new on their external cabinets still. As far as the hot tub shell goes, just don't leave it empty with the cover open in the sunlight. A spa as well insulated as Hot Spring, when left empty in the sunlight, will get very very hot. This can damage the shell. Under normal circumstances though, when it's full of water, I'm not worried about them at all. To make a note on what Peteyboy said. I just had a customer order a spa from me two days ago, who told me part of the reason he bought a Hot Spring was due to his sister in Alaska having a Hot Spring. Apparently she told him, "Everyone in Alaska owns a Hot Spring." LOL I'm sure there's other spas up there, but those were her words.