icewoz

Thanks Dan, that's exactly what it was. I opened the back of it, water poured out. Did a seal break? The pump is only about 3 years old. I'm disappointed that these things don't last longer.

Yes, in Dec. 2015. I'll have to look at it and see where the screw is that you're talking about. If it's wet, does that mean the pump is toast?

Dave, Nothing on the tub is working. No lights are on, no pump(s) running.

I have a 2003 Hot Spring Grandee. I refilled it about a month ago, ran fine, all lights solid. Went on vacation for a week, come back and have no lights on and the 20 amp breaker immediately trips if I try to turn it back on. The 30 amp breaker is fine. I think this is for the heater, but even with just the 30 amp on, it's not heating and no lights light on the tub. Any suggestions for a fix. I called a technician but they won't be out until Nov. 22nd, and at this point, in Detroit, temps are going down into the 20's the next couple of nights. How fast do hot tub lines freeze? I'm afraid I'm going to have more problems because of the temps.

My tub has recently developed what looks to be a calcium film on the seats and walls of the tub. I have drained it and have tried all kinds off spa cleaners to clean it, but nothing seems to be taking the film off. Is there something else I can use? I'm ready to try CLR to dissolve the calcium but I'm not sure it's good to use on my tub?

I'm not sure if it was making a noise before because I had not opened the service panel. HOWEVER, last night I was surfing around the web on this subject and found a thread where someone said they "tapped the circ pump 'wet end' with the handle of a screwdriver". Well, I thought I should try it just because I don't want to pay for a service call on Monday. Well, it worked!!! I turned the tub on, and I did hear noise, waited a minute, the red light stayed on, waited another minute, it's still on. Took the dog for a walk totally expecting it to be blinking when I got back, it was still a solid red. Got up this morning, still red, green light is on now. Ran the "clean" cycle thinking that that would probably make it blink again, but it still a nice, solid red. Now, it could be coincidence that it worked after squirting water through the pump, turning it on and off and kicking the damned thing a couple of times. All I know is it's working now and I'm canceling my service call for Monday. Thanks for everyone's suggestions!!! Steve

Unfortunately squirting water through the filter hole didn't work. I could see the water coming up the return in the middle of the tub, so maybe that's not a vapor lock?

Thanks Jerimiah. I was looking for your email and was going to ask you for suggestions. Hot Spring has suggested something similar to the device you referenced. Thanks again!!! Steve

The tub is tripping, not the breakers. The red "power" light blinks after about 60 seconds. Hot Spring dealer thinks it may be a vapor lock.

It is the spa that is tripping. The breakers are not. The red "power" light on the spa is flashing. Hot Spring dealer thinks it may be a vapor lock.

Drained the tub, refilled, turned tub back on, seems ok for about a minute then trips. Had to run the tub for an hour after switching over to the Spa Frog chemical system (needed to circulate chlorine). Tub ran, with all jets going, without tripping. Turned the jets off and 2 minutes later it trips. Water seems to have started heating up during this time as well. Any clues, suggestions? I did accidently turned the power on while it was empty and realized it about 3 hours later. Could this have burnt something out? Thanks!!!

Thanks Chem Geek and Mike. Mike, are you using a "system" now for Chlorine usage (not sure if this is the right term....like Nature 2, etc?). I'm assuming I have to buy a test kit to use Nitro's Decom process? "5.Add 50 ppm FC using Regular Clorox 6% Unscented Bleach. That's approx. 1/4 gal (32 oz) per 350 gal tub.? - Is this just using bleach to get FC? I have a 500 gallon tub so I'll figure out how much to use. So using the ProTeam stuff isn't going to give me any advantage? I'm thinking of switching to Brilliance for Spas, which I think is still made by Baqua, but it's their Bromine line. Any opinions on that, or just go the chlorine route and be done with it?

I figured out that I have white water mold from the little tissue looking particles that were in my tub. Because of having to be out of town, I was not able to add Baqua Spa when I usually do for about 2 weeks. I was adding sanitizer on the lower side because of my water turning cloudy and my dealer saying that sanitizer level was too high. So now I think I've gone in the other direction and have not added enough? At this point, I've added Spa Purge, drained, and have been filling it a little, then draining again to get the mold out that is coming up (both white and "brownish" looking). I'm not sure how long I have to keep doing this. I've been working at it all day. Any tips? I'm afraid to fill it for fear of finding more mold floating around. Another site recommended "ProTeam System Support" . Is anyone familiar with this product? They claim removes all white water mold and pink slime. Thanks!!!

I have a hard time reading those Baqua Spa test strips, and it appeared that the sanitizer was too low, so I added some, and now I have mildly cloudy water. I took a sample to my dealer who is the one that confirmed that there was too much sanitizer in it. He said not to add any for at least a month, and I'd probably have to drain the water. I really don't want to do that, I only had fresh water in there for a week before this occurred. Am I screwed? Should I just drain and restart, or is there something I can do? Thanks!!!

A Cal Spa warranty is only as good as the dealer selling the spa is. The GE motors are definately not the best, just ok. I think the biggest problem with them was as soon as the pump seal would start to leak it would wash out the motor bearings quickly. Cal is what it is, a descent quality spa. If the price is competitive and the dealer is good, then you should be ok. How much are they asking for the Escape 748L? For the Escape 748L, he's asking around $6100 with cover, lifter and steps.