Pool Clown

What you wrote said nothing of transport or setup, so I think your'e OK

No, 2.25 K ohms. I'm too lazy to do the math, It's telling your unit it's about 118 degrees, give or take. Go get a temp sensor.

When I get these calls I usually start inspecting the com cable for mice/ rat chewage. They can chew right thru, disabling the indoor panel. I'd start there.

Shoot! Low nox is different. Different flow chart anyway. Let me get my book. Your looking for a value between 5K and 19K ohms, so set your meter to 20K ohms and depending on the temp, you should be somewhere between those two values. If you get anything but that, replace the temp sens. If the value is within, Why don't you pm me and I'll send you the flow chart(s).

Well, I got it in the back yard pretty much without a hitch. Only one sketchy part, My gate opening was EXACTLY the same dimension as the tub. Had to get it lined up perfect to go thru. I used the Egyptian method with four 3 foot pipes 2 1/2" Diam. worked real well. Hardest part was when we (me and one other) went to lay it down from a "on it's side" position. Wow, I didn't know I still had muscles there! Thought of the spa dolly but it was going to be too wide (That durn gate opening). Thanks for the suggestions...

Cool, but check those two points that will tell you if there is power going to the board, then check to see if the xformer is getting voltage to it, then out of it. J3 is high voltage to the x former, J4 is low voltage from the x former Probably will be about 25-30 volts. I count 4 fuse on the board, But the big fuse I'm talkin about is not mounted on the board, it's mounted underneath the board. I think it's a 40 amp. Good luck and thanks again.

I just got a 2000 Altamar/sentry 750-850 and I said to myself when I was hooking the thing to power was "If this thing don't come to life, I gonna look at that big old fuse first. It looks like you can have voltage at the block and have a blown fuse. See if you have power at J2 and J1. If you don't have it there, Blown Fuse perhaps. Can you do me a favor? My hot tub came without a filter element. Can you give me any numbers off yours? Thanks in advance.

Those are great ideas, RealDrew, Did you do that with the tub on its side? I must move mine on it's side to get in the back yard.

Looking for some ideas on how to move portable spa. Looking for some possible home brew tools, tricks, or pitfalls. And what NOT to do.

My Jandy book says 70 should give you 11.893K That may be it! If not... The Fenwal switches the fan. If you know the fan runs, May be Fenwal, but i don't think I've ever run into a Fenwal that was intermittent. I'm still thinking wire somewhere. Especially a ground wire. If you can get your finger on the relay that's on the thermostat board, you should be able feel it click when you raise the thermostat (call for heat). That sends voltage out to the hi-limits. Still no e-mail... P.S. Is the heater a low-nox?

My Bad, Didn't see you had a LT. Eyes start to go around 40... Ok, first do this, there may be a led on the fenwal. Try to fire the heater and when It doesn't start, see if that led is flashing if so, count the number of flashes. Next, See if the fan comes on. Find the Fenwal Ign controller. Find the Black wire and the Gray wire labeled F1 and F2 and connect them together. Fan should come on no matter what.

It's not a signal really. It, (the Jandy) closes a switch and completes the safety circuit on the heater. I would look more towards a wire that has come loose between the aqua link and the heater. First look for any splices, That's where I find the majority of opens. If it isn't spliced, great, now look at the ends make sure those contacts are good. Probably wire nuts at the heater and connected to a bus labeled "low voltage heater" pin 1 & 2 at the controller. I've had mice chew this wire so that's not out of the ordinary. If that don't work, I got more.

Do you have any automation ? If you're sure you are getting voltage into but not out of the board, it kinda sounds like it's not getting a call for heat, call for heat comes before power leaves the board. could be like a loose wire, or a control wire open, firemans switch ?

Haven't worked on too many of those but from general experience, A Hi limit fault is sometimes caused by a improperly functioning Thermostatic or mechanical by-pass. Man, That blower musta been expensive... That popping you heard sounds like "banging". It's when the water begins to boil cuz the bypass is stuck open and flow thur the collector slows down to a point where the water 'Cooks". Once the water reaches a predetermined temp, the hi-limit opens the safety circuit, and the heaters gas valve closes. Once that happens, the water begins to cool, closing the high-limit signaling the control for a call for heat and the whole circus begins again. Take the by-pass out and look for cracks in the bulb looking part of the thermostat. Good luck

I've had an experience where I had tightened the fitting in so far that it touched the shoulder where the treads end (in the pump). And while it looked ok the pressure from the fitting pushing on the shoulder, caused the fitting to leak. If you think this may have happened to you, Take the pump lid off and look inside the inlet part of the pump. can you see any threads? If not, this MAY be your problem. The water trick is good too. Be sure to run the water on top of the fitting and cradle in your hand the bottom of the fitting. This will allow water completely to immerse the bottom half of the fitting. Just pouring water on the fitting may not check the bottom of the fitting accurately. You need to do the cupped hand thing to be sure.

Yes, they screw out. If I remember correctly, the panels come off relatively easily also. Check your manual for the correct method (manual should be available on line)

The Motor probably had a birth defect. Using a smaller pipe size? No, that wouldn't happen in less than a minute. See if you swap that one out for a 3/4 Hp pump. don't forget, impeller too.

If you have RS8, you can disable the spa switch right at the panel in the house. No need to open the box. In the all button menu: Lockouts/ Spa switch/ In the one touch menu:Menu,Help/ Lockouts/ Spa Switch/ Lock, Unlock/

That's my guess too, threaded inlet fitting.

Chances are you didn't have enough salt put in. About 22.5 K is about 11 50 pound bags or 550 pounds of salt to get 3.0 to 3.5 (3000-3500). Also, if you take a water sample to your "pool professional" you can get the actual salt content of the water, (providing he doesn't use a test strip but a actual meter) which could very well disagree with what your intellichlor is telling you. Those things are notorious for reporting a low salt level. If you call Pentair about this, They may try to feed you a line about how the sensor is reporting an average or incorrect due to water not hitting the sensor at startup. They say, the thing takes a salt reading right when the pump comes on, then every 3 or 6 hours, I can't remember. and if your pump comes on and has any air at all in the lines, supposedly your reading will be skewed. Yea, I don't buy it either. They told me to get the system running (no air) then unplug the cell from the X-former. make sure all the lights go out, then plug it back in. Once it boots, Pentair says that should give an accurate reading. Unfortunately, If your unit is giving you green then amber then green again, I'm afraid your going to slip into the Pentair black hole. Best thing to do is try to get a new cell. Hopefully your installer is a factory service center and they can warranty quickly otherwise call Pentair and keep bugging them till it's fixed to your sat. I'm not trying to bash Pentair, They have a wide assortment of good products, but like with all rather large companys, they are not so anxious to admit they have a problem. They do know they have one, and will hopefully soon have a fix 4 this problem. Good luck!

It sounds like copper sulfate. Its when the Ph drops to a point where it begins to erode the copper parts more readily. Copper, like in the heater. If the Ph is ok, then there is one other way you could get this. When Certain algecides are not diluted properly before they were introduced to the pool. If you had plaster, you could've acid washed. I don't know how aggressinve you can get with a liner, I don't have much dealings with liners.

JFS, Your solar panels should have a drain down valve on them. The valve opens when the pump shuts off and gravity takes over. The valve allows water to drain from the panels. What maybe happening in your case is that the valve is opening because the flow thru the panels isn't enough to hold it closed, and it pulls in air. Or the valve could be hung open. If its the first, I would check the filter and/or the pump. Could be as simple as a dirty filter. Or maybe a dirty pump basket. If you have the means, go up on the roof and see if you can hear it leaking (Hissing) while the pump is on.

Given what you wrote, My diagnosis: Not enough air AND water flow problem: Pump size wrong or filter problem. If your pool guy checked the Propane flow by water column , Find out from him what it was while the heaters were running/trying to fire. And find out the total square inches of the roll out window openings. If there are screens or louvers on the openings, then you have to subtract a percentage of the total (see online install manual on the manufacture's web site for specific numbers). Good Luck

Open all the valves and see if the cleaner works, if not, turn off the main drain first. If that don't make the cleaner work, start closing the skimmer till the cleaner starts to work. If that still don't work, either the filter is dirty or the barracuda needs some work.

In my area: Existing covers should be changed, but not required. BUT, if you drain and do any work on the pool, the contractor is required to replace them. If there is a permit involved, you got to replace them. If you have any unrelated work done at your house that requires the city to come out to your house i.e. inspection and he see it, even though thats not what the permit was pulled for, he will require you replace them before you can get finaled. Just change them. If you dont want to drill holes in the plaster, Try Paramount's SDX retro fit grates. They use the existing holes from the old drain. Also in some colors.