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mgodwin

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  1. We have a stainless steel overflow gutter that runs around the entire pool. A few weeks ago the PH went crazy and dark brown stains appeared on the stainless steel. I have tried CLR and a Bioguard product to remove but neither worked. Any ideas?
  2. We have a fiberglass diving board at our outdoor facility. I'm not sure how old it is but when requesting to have it recovered this year my facilities boss asked if it needed to be replaced since it was old. I have never heard of an expiration on a diving board as long as it is in good working condition. Anyone know different?
  3. Definitely not algae as the stains will not wipe off the wall. It's also an indoor pool so leaves are not an issue. I've examined the stains closely and they look like rust, but usually when you rub your fingers across rust you get some of it on you. Not the case here. I'm leaning more towards the worn plaster reasoning, especially since I have a couple of small areas where the plaster is coming loose where it meets the stainless steel gutter, plus wisespread paint blistering. All in all, it was a sloppy renovation job that I will have to deal with very soon.
  4. I've noticed orange-brown stains randomly appearing on my pool walls and bottom. I was thinking that they were the result of leaching iron, but I did the vitamin-c/sock test and nothing happened. Anyone have any experience with this? We keep the water balanced and checks on all chemicals. This is a 125,000 gallon commercial pool with a painted bottom.
  5. We had our service technician out again friday. He has now come to the conclusion that it could be the gas pressure. I know he tested it, probably with the manometer, and found there was not enough pressure coming through, especially when both heaters are running. He said he adjusted the regulator and now the gas pressure should be sufficient. However, he also opened all of our water valves leading to the heater, which dropped my flow rate. I checked the heaters when I came in this morning and they were not running with both thermostats at max. I tweaked the valves to get the flow rate up and magically the heaters lit. I was questioning the oxygen flow in that room too, but there are four rollout windows that we always have open. I am guessing this should be sufficient air flow.
  6. Our service company has told us that there needs to be a differential between the actual water temperature and the intended water temperature range for the heaters to light. We have been patiently waiting for the differential to be hit, and now the water is almost 3 degrees lower than where we like. I'm ready to call bullshit on the "differential theory." Any advice? BTW, I have floated the gas flow theory out there but the service company isn't receptive. This is becoming a frustrating issue and all the while I keep getting the complaints from our members.
  7. The heaters sit at deck level, but in a sealed room. Some chemicals are stored in this area, but they are behind closed door. Our service company has said that the pipe reduction at the meter is typical and should not be the problem. The pilot lights are always burning. Unfortunately I was not working at this facility during installation so I am working backwards to solve a mystery. I have found corners cut on the pool installation so it would not surprise me to find some here as well.
  8. This all great information. I looked and they did reduce the natural gas line from 2" to 3/4" at the meter. I am also going to request that the meter be checked to see how much load it can handle. Hopefully this will solve my heater issues. Thanks for the great feedback.
  9. How old are these heaters? Both of them are not working or just one? If it is both I would look into a water pressure problem. I've been fixing them for over 20years. How about a little more info..what "tricks" have you been using and how old are a good place to start. The first 2 numbers of the serial # are the year The heaters are 2 years old. The tricks I used in the past are things like switching them off for a few minutes and then back on, turning the temperature down and then back to the desired range, and I've even taken the front panel off and jiggled some of the wiring. These things sound ludicrous, but they have worked in the past. When we first put the heater in there was an issue with water pressure. The water valves are half closed to increase pressure running to the heaters. Neither heater is wanting to light its burners and both pilots are burning.
  10. I have two Jandy Lite2 LG heaters servicing a 125,000 gallon indoor pool. I have had issues with them since they were installed, but have been able to use various "tricks" to get them working. The pilot is always lit, however I have the hardest time getting the burners to light. It seems to have gotten worse over the summer and now my "tricks" aren't working. I have had service people look at them regularly but it's never a completely definable problem. Anyone have any experience or success with this heater?
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