Pool Clown

How is the light accessed? From the water side? Or the from back? I'm looking at replacing with led bulb. 2000 altamar.

That's where I was headed...

Absolutely not! That sort of thing is done not only to help strengthen the concrete, but to help keep from cracking all to heck. I put re bar in 4 x 8 equipment pads! The psi number is the weight concrete can take (in pounds) per square inch.

How about the water chemistry? Has the water gotten real high or low on Ph?

What is the heater? (model ,make,etc.)

No. Correct.

I have seen pools that have the normal coping on the bond beam (12" +/-) then just grass.

Even tho your dryer has a lint trap, You would probably get more lint in the pool than heat!

100 kPa = 14.5 psi

The pump also runs the pool filter. I have it valved with Jandy valves. The on board pumps are better for running the jets. Because of proximity, they will give better flow than a pump 10 to 20 feet away. Repairing would still be cheaper (probably) than new pump(s).

I think I did what you're doing/did/done. 2000 Altamar, tied into the 1 1/2 drain line for the suction and drilled a hole in the shell near the skimmer for the return. Equipment is about 20 feet away 4x160 pump, TX135, maxetherm. Altamar is still fully functional (pulled the wires on the onboard heater tho). Takes about a half hour to heat on the coldest days. My mantra? " It's ALOT easier to keep the water balanced when it's cold".

Unless you're going to increase the pipe size to and from the pool as well, increasing the size of the face piping won't do much. The water still has to go through that 1.5 pipe back to the pool. Keep/repair/buy the 1 h.p. pump, It'll do fine. After all, the pool did ok to this point with the 1.5 pipe. Bush down at the pump. Or if you don't mind a little extra cost, go ahead and replace the face piping in 2". Just keep in mind that it's mostly cosmetic. The new energy efficient pumps are not designed to increase your flow or to be more efficient by moving the water at a higher velocity, but to be ENERGY efficient. The idea is to run the pump longer at a lower energy draw (speed). I know that sounds a little strange, but it works.

If you want your thread to go 4+ pages, Just put costco in the title and sit back and watch it go nuclear!

Have you checked the finger screen? Its usually in the fitting that connects the feed hose to the wall. It may either screw out, or 1/4 turn and it pops out.

In California, thats the best way to get the plaster dust out, so you'd be killing two birds, just go easy. you're vacuuming up powder on the surface, you wont be "scrubbing" the surface, just running the vacuum over the plaster. After a few days with water, You should be ok running a vac.

Get your pool guy to vacuum the pool, That should do the trick. Be sure to put d.e. in first to precoat before you vac.

You can start by never going to that bumpkin again. 950.00... to drain a pool? Please. For 950 you could buy 3 pumps that drain pools.

I would not spend it unless the guy would take it back if it were not the fix... Fat chance. You are stuck alright. Something else to chew on. The leak doesn't have to be the rubber gskt. The water may be coming from the back of the fixture where the cord goes in.

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If it is an air inlet.... Pump running it leaks? Then jet obstruction (may not be visible, jet may look working ok) Pump off it leaks? Problem with check valve on air line.

Hate to be the bearer but, If the colors don't change anymore, I think you will need a new fixture. I've tried to get the electronics but they don't offer them. Thinking that it's the little motor that turns the color wheel, You can get that part but I have not yet seen one fail. Its something in the electronics that causes the color ring to stop. If the water has not gotten to the elec yet, I would take the fixture out like 558 said and take the lens off and let the fixture sit in the sun for a day and dry out good before I put it back together WITH A NEW GASKET no matter what the old one looks like! Note, When taking the fixture out be careful not to let the water inside to touch the bulbs or elec. Roll the fixture over so the light points down as soon as you get it out of the niche. Also, don't turn on the light for more than 30 sec. when it's out of the water and the lens is on or boom. Good Luck

Oh, I thought you had a gas heater like for a pool. Sorry, I'm no help.

I use the old fashioned way (do this only if you're comfortable doing it) I take the front cover off, put in service mode, then put your finger tip on the relay (somewhere plastic) then turn on the pump manually. You should be able to feel it turn on. Start with the upper left relay first, thats usually where the filter pump is wired to. Or you can disconnect the red plug labeled filter just below the bezel then trace the red and black wire back to the relay. Some times the first way is faster.

Try Goggling pool and spa parts then search your part number from that web site.

Does the temp control work now on the heater? If so (depending on brand) you could possibly take the heater control out of the heater and mount it in your box. If your heaters are older ones, I think you'll have better luck because the older heater may just have two wires to deal with rather than an electronic ignition that has many. What kind of heaters do you have? All the other switching you may be able to use air switches (Len Gordon) makes switches that can control two or three things with just one push button switch. Good luck and let us know how it goes.