Pathfinder

Can you bypass the timer to run the pump?

That price is a steal Id buy it if it were me. I ve seen people pay well over that for much older Beachcombers. Replacing the slats can be done but its a bit of work. Your local BC dealer can get them for you.

Tom, my bad for not explaining that part further. yes Arctic tubs are pretty much on Par with Beachcomber, Pacific, Hydropool when it comes to dealer cost. I was just trying to clarify a point that was relative to the post and help the poster understand the tubs cost more to buy than others. In turn they have less margins that most.

My advice for those with SWG is to boost 2 days b4 closing then drain add Stain prevent & cover. 4 yrs closing with that method with SWG pools and we've been good to go in the spring with no issues. I think your readings are good & forgo the polyquat unless your in a non freezing area.

Im gonna say no you probably wont see a cheaper price since our dollar had been so strong for the past while, the american dealers were paying much more than previously. This cut in their margins by quite a bit I bet. This drop in exchange will help the dealers cover some operating costs as traffic may be slowing to their stores right now. Arctic tubs for a dealer to buy are pretty expensive as it is so it will probably be a welcomed relief for the dealer & probably not the customer. Thats just my opininon

Undo a wire coat hanger put the hook end in until you have hooked the ridge. You should be able to get it out that way.

Im gonna guess it wasnt very popular. You can just put you vac hose against the closest return to purge or when you put you vac into the water take the remaining hose and feed it into the pool straight down foot by foot this way your pushing the air out as your feeding the hose into the pool. If done correctly when your at the end water will start coming out the end. Sorry but that's the best I can do for you.

A quick inexpensive way to check is to wrap that connection with electrical tape. Start with the wall of the pump housing and wrap down the pipe a bit. If that joint is sucking air it will vacuum form the tape and the air reduce greatly. If that's your area of leakage I'd recommend using some Whitlam TU-555 Thread Sealant. It is PVC safe and creates a much better seal than T-tape, which can sometimes cause the issue if bulked up too much.

I will say if your going above 1 speed get an Intelli Flo, other than that stay with a good single speed pump. I have been told on good authority that your not really saving a whole lot by going 2 speed. The price increase of 2 speed compared to energy savings does not work out that well. Controls & Salt I like Jandy but everyone is different.

Mike, read the posts in full Its not the foam itself that absorbs water its the tiny air gaps in the foam. Fill your cheap styro cooler partially with water & over a small amount of time your bottom will become so heavy it will tear away from the non submerged foam.

Call HST Synthetics in Mississauga & ask them if they can make that cover with the dimensions from your 480. They will be able to tell you if they do and recommend a dealer in your area. They also make a covercap that can go over your spa cover for the winter. I have many happy customers with them. You may need a custom size made up but its well worth it and they are inexpensive. Here is a pic of the cover cap www.hstsynthetics.com/product1.html?id=14 Here is their # 905.670.3432

It will could be a bad O-ring from say a Union or your pump lid. But most likely the culprit is the threaded connection at the front of your pump housing.

When you use the torch try to focus the flame on the anchor and not the ladder rail since it will expand as well. A proactive tip for next year when installing after a ladder lock-up is to grease the part that will go into the anchor. You wouldnt be able to twist the rail out by removing the treads simply because it is affixed in its location and tight against the pool wall.

I think its a proper move on their part. The Distributors & OEM's are the reason they are around they buy tonnes of product. Now when you start having people go around these channels this doesnt benefit you at all. If you have more & more people do this then your distributor that you have to buy other products for loses money, doesnt sell as many boards then may not get a better deal the next year because they are buying less. The revenues will need to be made up somewhere, this will mean that the price of the boards go up dramatically or the price is spread across all other products. The way I see it, for those few one time sales Balboa was getting it just wasnt worth it.If you feel your paying to much from someone then find another distributor. IMO Ive never felt that I paid too much for boards.

Use a torch to heat up the metal on the Anchor this will cause it to expand and then you should be able get the ladder out

What is the make and model of your filter. That way I can get you a part # No worries, Im around to help anyone any way I can.

You can use the cone attachment and stick it into the pipe or hold the end of the hose against the pipe. Over the years I have made many different attachments so that I dont have to hold the vac hose anymore. If you are going to close your pool yourself from now on you may want to invest in buying a threaded portion of the connection thats on your filter. That way you can fab it up for your shop vac hose then you have an easy connection with no fuss.

From your pic I would just disconnect from your filter and blow the lines from there. Your intake line I would make sure your pump lid is sealed and only do one line at a time. Now If you have a main drain. Your going to need compressed air or a bike pump works too. Anderson has the proper equipment you need check the link www.leaktools.com/products/pressure_induction/

Ask your dealer why they now offer a circ pump for the tubs. When earlier they were against them. Unfortunately there isnt that much less plumbing than a higher end tub. All Bullfrog has really done is take the normal way a tub is plumbed and turned it upside down. As stated b4 the main supply line loses more heat since it is exposed all of the time since the cover only protects the top but the side is wide open. The biggest issue I ve seen is that all of the seats are the same height. Not everyone has the same body type. It may be comfortable for some but not the majority. As I see it you shouldnt be sitting on the tub floor you should be sitting in a natural seated position. Wet test with at least 3 people and you will be able to tell how comfortable you will be.

Is your equipment graded lower than the top of your pool? Do you have another valve somewhere after your pump?

It is easier and more thorough if you disconnect from your pump in blow your skimmer out with the vac then suck the residual out at the skimmer. Your maindrain will need to be blown by compressed air. Disconnect after the heater and blow your return lines from there. If the vac is fairly new a 4peak hp should do the trick if not a 5-6.5 would be better. You cant completely blow out your maindrain the weight of the water wont allow it. What you are trying to accomplish is an airlock between your 3way and the natural gravity that wants to push the water up wards. Once you achieve bubbles coming from the maindrain you then close that line while air is still goin in.

Ok the auto vac lines are simple enough by disconnecting the hose and blowing them out. Your suction line has a suction relief system since its hooked up to the spa and it appears to be connected with a union. You can try taking off the vac release putting in a plug, disconnect the union on the front of the pump and blow from there. Make sure your only blowing one line at a time not both. For the future Id recommend replacing both manual 3-ways with a Praher Union 3 -way valve. That would make life easier for service & winterizing. Im guessing whoever plumbed this system never heard of unions or sweep 90's.(That 90 to 90 straight out of the heater is a beauty).

Are the valves closed?? Try blowing the lines at the last connection point b4 they go into the ground. You could also suck the skimmer out if the plumbing was ran properly. If you cant suck the skimmer out then for sure your valve is closed

A shop vac wont have enough to blow the main drain. Check the anderson leak detection website for an open ended test plug 1 5/8 you can put your compressor to that for your main drain. For your returns i put the shop vac at any union connection after the heater then blow if one return line T's off the other then one will purge first. When this happens you will need to light plug it so the air can move over to the other return. One that is fully purged then return to the first one and open it up until you have no more water. With the skimmers I blow from the pool equipment then suck the remainder out at the skimmer.

Did you try your local hot tub dealers most of the better brands are now using sweep 90's. (I sell mine for $19.50 to give you a range). Any online spa parts site should have them. Try www.flexpvc.com they have them but shipping is kinda high.