blindrid

Move it yourself as it isn't that hard or that heavy. Of course assuming you don't have any insurmountable issues i.e. backyards that are hard to navigate. I find it hard to believe that somone would charge $600 though.

I'd be all over it if my HS left. They are easy to work on and the PP mentioned replacing the motomassage - mine just replaced after 12 years and cost about $95 shipped. Biggest things is make sure of no leaks as everything else is not that costly to replace i.e. heater, circ pump, board, etc. For that money, that gives plenty of room for parts as needed.

Ozone is pretty much worthless and is more show than dog. Disconnect it and use the spa without it. If you want to replace it, one can go online and pretty much buy a universal. I always get a kick out of dealers charging an unbelievable amount for a $75 unit that takes 5 minutes to install these days.

I'm a fan of HotSprings. They do cost a bit more but typically have solid dealers and provide a worry free product. I have owned two and whenever my current on goes away - 13 years and counting, I'll buy another.

Ozone is pretty much worthless. If you really want it, order one online and put it in yourself and save most of the $500.

I live in an area that has huge lighting storms. I don't bother and if the unit is running or not if you lose power makes no difference.

Doublecheck to make sure the heater isn't airlocked first.

If I remember correctly when I wired my tub Hot Springs does something a bit unique. All you have to do is look at a wiring schematic to make sure things are done correctly. If I remember correctly it had something to do with either the neutral or the ground. Follow the schematic on the back of your compartment door and doublecheck - sorry my memory sucks .

I currently have my tub on Trex. It's been there ten years and performs fine and would never do wood. I've also built decks with ChoiceDeck and TimberTech with no issues. Years back there was an issue with Trex in some climates but have seen no problems at all even with the "old" stuff. As mentioned, the joists and posts give the support not the decking. I will never own another wood deck.

Obviously, you do not read the posts. I do not write down or remember any prior tests. My question ultimately was what I needed to do to get rid of the roughness / scale so I could drain the tub. In over 20 years of owning a tub, I have never had the problem and don't anticipate having it again with fresh water. As mentioned, the answer was not given so I was forced to give up without the information you claim you need as you sell another test kit. I've gotten along fine with strips over the twenty years and plan on for the next twenty.

Any thoughts?

Hi Village. My ph popped up to about 7.8! The tub is still pretty rough so I added ph down a few minutes ago. I'm was hoping to clear up the roughness so I could change water this weekend. Is it asking too much for the rough surface to clear up?

The lucky thing is that most ozone installations in residential spas are more of a marketing tool and really do not do much at all so it is often a moot point. That's what I always figured but was never sure. I didn't get out there last night with severe rain and a few inches of hail. I'll get out there tonight and revise the #'s and see if the residue is dissipating or not. Thanks for yout time on this.

Thanks. I do have ozone so is the bromine level of 2 still too low? My goal is to get the deposits off the tub (and assuming the heater and pump) and then drain the tub, clean the filters and start fresh. It's only a 300 gallon tub so it's not a huge issue to drain and clean. Is there any chemical flushes that would help before I drain it? I'll check the roughness again tonight and let you know. As to using strips, I've been negligent is getting a test kit as that's been on my "to do" list for some time. I think you have finally pushed me into buying one. Thanks for your help and I'll repost the status this evening.

Hardness: 250 Total bromine: 2 PH: 6.8 reduced with ph down last night from about 7.2 TA: 80 (now) Added fresh water last month not used until last week a few times. No history as I've never had problems. test with strips It seems like it may be clearing up or my imagination is kicking in wishfully. Thank you

I've got a 99 jet setter - parts do go out regardless. I've been able to troubleshoot ade repair pretty easily. New means new heater, pumps, etc. you can't go wrong with new but IMHO you can't go wrong either way depending on your budget. If you can, go new.

I'll test it again tonight as I can't remember the particulars. I do remember the hardness was about 200, the bromine showed fine. I do add a sodium bromide when I fill and I typically shock with chlorine.

I've had tubs for a long time. Last night went in and tub felt very rough. I just cleaned it last month, adding calcium to bring up the hardness levels to acceptable levels. My norm is to get the PH correct when I fill and after that, there is little maintenance. First of all, what causes the roughness as some of my google searches indicate calcium precipitate from a bad PH level. Does that sound right to the pro's in here? If so, how is the best way to remove. Water is clear, use bromine floater, use very little and shock once a week. Your help is appreciated. Thanks, Randy

And don't make it too difficult as this spa is easy to work on. Spaservant is 100% correct in not dry firing any of the system. You have a large pump (I believe on the left side in the compartment), one small circ pump (tucked behind the heater), the heater (with two sensors)and the control board(s). I am not familiar with any "key" so someone else may be of help there unless it is the "summer mode" switch that has the circ pump running only 8 hours a day, not sure as mine is a few years newer. If the system has been out of commission, sometimes the circ pump impellers stick and a whack with a screwdriver will start the circ pump also. Do you have a manual?

Long story short, I have come across a Thermacore 6000 replacement spa heater for about $100 less than Watkins No-Fault. They appear pretty much idential with exception of manual reset versus Watkins where you reset by killing the breaker. The local HS dealer is much higher than that on a replacement heater so I am forced to go internet sales. My last heater (for whatever reason not determined yet froze) was a Watkins no-fault and not real happy that I got 2 years out of it before it froze though it probably was not the heater's fault. Any experience with the Thermacore as it sure looks like it may be the same mfgr.

Sounds possible, how old is the circ pump? original circ pump - 2001 - was out of service for about 2 years in storage about 5 years ago.

How about this thought as I was thinking about the options this AM: Assuming maybe the filters were dirtier than I thought, causing a low flow condition, which in turn caused the high limit thermistor to take down the heater, causing a potential freeze condition. OK all, poke holes in my scenario . . . . . before I become a parts changer after all .

I've done plenty of repairs and don't understand where you are coming from. Everything is pretty straight forward, easy to repair and IMHO both good spas.

Finally getting around to diagnose hot tub with a 2 1/2 year old (new style titanium) heater that froze last spring (don't ask why so long ). Obviously something caused the heater to freeze and I have a couple of questions so I don't become a parts changer: 1) Circ pump: when I take it out to test it, what is considered an appropriate water flow? Some suggest that it may have been a failed or weak circ pump but I guess what is considered "weak"? 2) I'm pretty careful about filter maintenance but I suppose I could have let the maintenance slip when it was colder than a well diggers a** last winter. Anyway, suggestions / advice is appreciated. Randy

It is a 2001. I've had good luck with it. How do you troubleshoot the circ pump with no water in the tub? (was -20 last night.....) You take it out and set it next to a bucket of water on the work bench. Hook it up to electricity with some jumpers and pump water in a cirlce out and into the bucket. You'll need some flexible tubing. I think that's 1"???? Make sure the bucket and the water are clean. You may have to give the water a boost to get it going. I fill the suction tube up then start the pump and drop the hose in the bucket. I also vice grip the pump to the bench.