Dan.The.Spa.Man

Ask the Sundance dealer this: If the Sundance has less filters and they filter out smaller particles, why would you not have to clean it as much or more than the HotSpring? Wouldn't it by nature trap more stuff and need to be cleaned more often?

Good advice, and I like that line...I may use that today.

I would have someone else get a price on a Grandee first so you know what it costs, or call over the phone. My guess is the dealer may try to whack you on a price knowing you already have a free Caspian coming. Congrats on the new tub.

By breaker do you mean the red thermal cut-off button that is located on the side of the black hot tub control box? If so it is probably the circ pump. That button trips if there is no or a low amount of flow and the heating element gets too hot. Did you just refill the tub...if so there may be an air bubble in front of the pump that you can bleed out by loosening the clamp and pulling the line slightly off.

I guess I don't understand these 'pullout' problems more than anything. I repair thousands upon thousands of hot tubs...all which primarily use flex and have miles of it at that...and I can honestly say I've never encountered a piece of flex pulled out of a fitting over time. I have had some spring small leaks at the glue joint, but these were cases of certain serial number runs where the wrong glue was being used, or chemicals that eventually caused it to leak, but they have not 'pulled out'. I have nothing against rigid pipe, I've just never come across the problems that you guys are seeing with it. So being that it is easier to use, I have no reason to not use it. When you first glue the joint (with flex or rigid) depending on the temp I've seen pipe slide back out again, you just need to re-glue and hold it for a couple of seconds until the glue bonds. Maybe some of these may be cases were the technician glued the joint and walked away without holding it for a couple seconds.

...and I hate selling chemicals to people.

Use the right glue and tell the customer to run the pool with the valves 'open' instead of closed and you'll never have any trouble. If flex is so bad how come 90% or more of the people that come into my store with dug up broken pipe pieces have rigid pipe? It's just my opinion based on 20 years in the business, not like I'm a flex-pipe slalesman or anything. Just find it easier to work with and completely reliable based on my experiences.

That's not good at all. That black flexible stuff is just an air vent for the pump. If water is coming out there it means that the foam has already absorbed a ton of water and that area is one of the lowest and easiest places that the water can come out. Did this tub sit empty over the winter in an area with freezing temperatures? If so, there are check valves in the plumbing that commonly hold water if the tub was not blown out properly and anti-freeze added. These valves work to divert water to certain jets when you operate the diverter level on top. When you move the lever to the check valve that is broken it must be draining out. What is the serial number of your sovereign?

...and I could show you 5X as many invoices with the opposite results. Especially in the Northeast where the ground shifts. I've never had flex-pipe pull out of a fitting after thousands of applications...never mind the significant amount of extra-glue joints needed with rigid pipe.

Thanks for the reply. Unfortunately our current house is ancient and it is going to cost north of $1500 to upgrade the electric and have the 230V installed. I prefer to soak without jets so that would not really be an issue. You'll have no problem converting ity back to 110V. Sent you a PM.

I know I need the No-Fault 6000 Heater and the Silent Flo 5000 or the new equivalent E-5. Hubby says, If he can get the thing to work we may as well put the money into the parts. Just not sure what else might be wrong with it. I'm hoping that since the door to the component department has been loose that the electrical board is not shorted. And also wondering if the 2 Wave Master 7000 Jet Pumps work. Is there a way to test them without filling the tub? If you do it right you could put it on that type cement block... (dig out the area, put down crushed stone, stone dust on top, blocks then set in the stonedust and tamped). That process is probably more work than pouring a slab though or building a small well built deck, which as Chas said, is your best option anyway. With a new heater and circ pump your 98 Grandee will be a great tub for what you paid and will put into it. There are not usually too many problems with the wavemaster jet pumps due to the fact that they don't run too often. You can visibly look at the area where the motor attaches to the pump. Look to see if the metal shaft and the plastic end of the impeller look clean...sometimes if the pump is in rough shape you'll see a ton of corrosion and the impeller can be split if the seal assembly has been leaking. If you get the tub hooked up electrically you could turn power on briefly and hit both jets on for 2-3 seconds to see if they work, then kill the breakers off.

I know I need the No-Fault 6000 Heater and the Silent Flo 5000 or the new equivalent E-5. Hubby says, If he can get the thing to work we may as well put the money into the parts. Just not sure what else might be wrong with it. I'm hoping that since the door to the component department has been loose that the electrical board is not shorted. And also wondering if the 2 Wave Master 7000 Jet Pumps work. Is there a way to test them without filling the tub? If you do it right you could put it on that type cement block... (dig out the area, put down crushed stone, stone dust on top, blocks then set in the stonedust and tamped). That process is probably more work than pouring a slab though or building a small well built deck, which as Chas said, is your best option anyway. With a new heater and circ pump your 98 Grandee will be a great tub for what you paid and will put into it. There are not usually too many problems with the wavemaster jet pumps due to the fact that they don't run too often. You can visibly look at the area where the motor attaches to the pump. Look to see if the metal shaft and the plastic end of the impeller look clean...sometimes if the pump is in rough shape you'll see a ton of corrosion and the impeller can be split if the seal assembly has been leaking. If you get the tub hooked up electrically you could turn power on briefly and hit both jets on for 2-3 seconds to see if they work, then kill the breakers off.

I know I need the No-Fault 6000 Heater and the Silent Flo 5000 or the new equivalent E-5. Hubby says, If he can get the thing to work we may as well put the money into the parts. Just not sure what else might be wrong with it. I'm hoping that since the door to the component department has been loose that the electrical board is not shorted. And also wondering if the 2 Wave Master 7000 Jet Pumps work. Is there a way to test them without filling the tub? If you do it right you could put it on that type cement block... (dig out the area, put down crushed stone, stone dust on top, blocks then set in the stonedust and tamped). That process is probably more work than pouring a slab though or building a small well built deck, which as Chas said, is your best option anyway. With a new heater and circ pump your 98 Grandee will be a great tub for what you paid and will put into it. There are not usually too many problems with the wavemaster jet pumps due to the fact that they don't run too often. You can visibly look at the area where the motor attaches to the pump. Look to see if the metal shaft and the plastic end of the impeller look clean...sometimes if the pump is in rough shape you'll see a ton of corrosion and the impeller can be split if the seal assembly has been leaking. If you get the tub hooked up electrically you could turn power on briefly and hit both jets on for 2-3 seconds to see if they work, then kill the breakers off.

That manual will do just fine...

QUOTE(lee b @ Mar 30 2008, 10:26 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}> I actually purchased the whole control system as pictured below. So I am basicly wondering on the control board where do I plug the power into it? Is it going to be wired directly to the relay's? If so which relay do I plug the hot wire and which one for the nuetral wire? Below is an enlarged pic of the unit I recieved notice it is not labeled anywhere for the power source... Power must go through the GFCI first.

True...but I am of the opinion that only a fraction of quality tubs sold ever develop a leak in the plumbing, but every single non-insulated tub will cost a lot more money in the long run electric wise in the northeastern climate in which I operate. Why was the fitting 'loose'?...maybe because there was no insulation to keep it from vibrating apart? They are definitely easier to fix but I don't believe the slight possibility of a leak and the ease of repair is worth the operating cost in the long run. I know I am digging up old posts, but I have to say, a Clearwater is well insulated, if they were not, how did they pass the califoria energy tests? I own one and it only costs me on average $30.00 a month to run, lower in summer, higher in winter, and we have worked on many full foam including quality tubs that have developed leaks and they are a nightmare to repair. We have had 2 leaks on Clearwaters, both were the faulty light lens that waterway made, very simple to repair. Different story in full foam. Very nice set up for working on spas by the way... Are you saying that a light lens is difficult to fix in a full foam tub? Not so...they are accessable from the motor compartment just like they are in uninsulated tubs.

If I didn't have two kids I'd be on a plane already!

If the tub heated up then the circulation pump is pushing an acceptable amount of water. If it was not then you would have problems with the power light flashing, indicating that the heater was getting too hot from low flow. If the pump is not making any noise and you can feel it vibrating slightly then it is probably fine. Also make sure the filters are clean, try taking them out to see if the flow increases.

Yep...back at you.

Kill power. Take the heater leads off from the board and check the heater for continuity. It should give you a reading of 9.0 - 12.0 ohms or somewhere around there. If it reads 'OL' (open line) or 0 then it's no good. Also, make sure you take a screw driver or something similar and punch right through that tape covering the high limit button and try resetting it again. Did you try this from the post above yet. If the heater reads 'open' then it is shot. If there is voltage going to the heater, then all of the safeties (thermistors, high limits, etc) are satisfied. If the heater was any good then it would heat. Sounds like it's dead.

Your heater has a separate breaker. First confirm that it hasn't tripped. I have power at the board. If you are talking about a circuit breaker at the panel, it is a 30A GFCI which i checked. Did not trip. Where do you have power at the board...where the power comes in? Make sure that you have 220volts (if the tub is set up 220volts) at the heater relay board where the heater wires are attached to. If not you need to replace the heater relay board. If so then: Kill power. Take the heater leads off from the board and check the heater for continuity. It should give you a reading of 9.0 - 12.0 ohms or somewhere around there. If it reads 'OL' (open line) or 0 then it's no good. Also, make sure you take a screw driver or something similar and punch right through that tape covering the high limit button and try resetting it again. Power coming in. Can't say I looked at the board but where is the relay board located? (I know stupid question) Thanks. Shut power off. Open the IQ2020 black control box. Follow the cord from the heater up to where it enters the control box. Once it enters the control box it breaks off into 3 lines (black,white, green) and those attach to the 'heater relay'. Again, make sure power is off , pull the wires off the relay...turn power back on and check to see if you have 220 volts at those relay terminals that you just took the black and white heater wires off from. If not, you need to replace that whole left side circuit board. You can also visually check to see if there are any black burn marks around or on the back side of that relay.

Your heater has a separate breaker. First confirm that it hasn't tripped. I have power at the board. If you are talking about a circuit breaker at the panel, it is a 30A GFCI which i checked. Did not trip. Where do you have power at the board...where the power comes in? Make sure that you have 220volts (if the tub is set up 220volts) at the heater relay board where the heater wires are attached to. If not you need to replace the heater relay board. If so then: Kill power. Take the heater leads off from the board and check the heater for continuity. It should give you a reading of 9.0 - 12.0 ohms or somewhere around there. If it reads 'OL' (open line) or 0 then it's no good. Also, make sure you take a screw driver or something similar and punch right through that tape covering the high limit button and try resetting it again.

Exactly, I sell both and actually prefer the jet massage of the Calderas a little bit better. Wet test them both.

Bad check valve.

Have you had a chance to test the heater yet? Any progress? ...I sent you another email