dave nh

I doubt you will be able to get ALL the water out, you might need to siphon or pump out the the foot wells to, even then there will be some water left in the lines which should not be a problem. Also, refill through the skimmer. If you have concerns about the water existing in the tub you go do a double drain and refill while shockin on the first fill.

People looking for pictures!

hmm..i smell a stronger like disinfectant type smell. maybe i am not smelling the ozone maybe it is more the chlorine. dunno.

agree with roger, check outlet next to main panel and any other outlets outside as well.

In a perfect world, I could run my fountain without the spa being in a filter mode, which is what I thought I was getting. I agree, i think you should be able to run the fountain while using the spa without the ozonator being on, the ozone can have a strong smell from time to time, at least i know i can smell it when first getting into the tub.

Tiny, I think one of the reasons the operation of the circ. pump has changed is because i think the newer circ. pumps are more powerful and can provide effective filtration. not sure. I also alternate my filter cycle between 16hrs and continuous depending on usage. I agree about the ozonator, i would proably leave my circ. pump on continuous indefinately if i knew i could control the ozonator to save the chip life. I am not sure about your waterfall since i do not have one, but it is interesting you say it only works when your filtration cycle is on. Because, the ozonator should not be running when you are using the tub. Check to see if the ozonator is off when the waterfall is on an you are using the tub, it should be off, even if the circ. pump is running. From what i understand the ozone gas is potentially a small hazard and should not be on.

I think that is the way it is supposed to work actually. If i want mine on 24hrs i have to set the filtration cycle for continious (the ozone also runs as well). The main jets do come on once and a while intermittently especially during cold weather but not for very long. The circ pump seems to do a fine job of filtering the water. Also, the circ. pump will come on during heating cycles regardless if the filtration cycle is on or not.

as rick mentioned, i really think a prepared compacted flat level base is the most important, personally, i do not think the spa pads are all they are cracked up to be since they must flex at the interlock points under the weight of the spa. Since they are "Throwing them in", putting them over your base will provide a clean surface to sit your spa. Good luck and enjoy your spa!

I know when i filled mine for the first time it was suggested that i immediately drain and refill after shocking to clear the lines of any fould water, which makes sense. Does the book elaborate why after only 1 month? to answer your question from my perspective i do not know why you would need to drain and refill. However i use dichlor not bromine. good luck.

[ BTW, if you leave the air dials for the venturis of the jets open, the ingoing air into the jets has to escape the spa somehow, and will appear as steam when it's cold enough. great point!

I dont think it would be normal, I have been checking mine the last couple of cold nights (below 30) to see how the cover is fitting. No steam escape. I looked at the area around the fold and it looks like my cover has baffles, like little pillows at the hinge that must help this. If you put some pressure on the cover in that area does the steam stop? Maybe you could tighten your clips down? good luck.

I looked at these and decided not to get one for the reasons john has talked about, seems it would be a pain to deal with every night. Also, unless it lowers the temperature at the bottom of the cover significantly, ie between the blanket and the cover, i cant see how it would be that great. I mean, it would have to fit like a glove against the edges of the tub to and the heat would likely just escape through the skimmer exposed water area as well. I would like to see a study with more facts on there effectiveness.

If anyone has the Cal Spa S704 all thoughts and input will be appreciated, as it hard to determine the leg room, and we are a tall family. If you are a tall family, make sure you compare the depth of the spas you are buying. IMO this was my most important factor when deciding on a tub. My tub is 40" deep and it is great for my 6-7 frame.

I'm trying to do some of the electtical set-up stuff on my own to save money. My hope is that the electrician can just show up, run the wire and hook it all up. You may want to make sure your electrician is comfortable with this. In my neck of the woods if you hire an electrician he/she has to do all the work they pull the permit for. That aside, some might not want to get involved in a homowner helper scenario. 1. did I buy the right disconnect? I bought a 60 amp gfci breaker box ( it's called a spa package from Lowes) I think it has to be 60 amps at the main panel, but does the box outside have to be 60 as well? here's a link to what I bought: Looks like that would work, i like the gfci at the disconnect. 2. is there a limit to the length of the liquid tight I can run? If so I'll have to run more pvc to a box closer then liquid tight from it YES. i believe it is about 6', dont forget the to count the length you run inside the tub as well to get to the spa pack. 3. should I buy and pre run the wire? if so how would I find out which guage, for both the main run and the run to the tub? from the main panel to the disconnect it's about 50' There are NEC code charts for this, but your owners manual should also give a recommended gauge wire, which might be 1 size higher. Again, you should discuss this with your electrician as they will ultimately be taking responsibilty for the work. Good luck with your new tub!

if your filter was running and it was not cold out, it was likely enough to keep the temp up. A good cover is a +++.

Well, I followed my own advice and I might need to submit a dispute with the CC if Master Spa can’t honor their advertising and bring my spa electric consumption down. I wish you luck, but based on experience with an appliance i purchased years ago, you might get a temporay credit, but if masters disputes your claim the CC will likely tell you it is a civil matter and it will be back in your court. Thank you for your posts so as to inform others about the issues you are facing with masters. As i have said before, for the money you paid it is not acceptable to be having the problems you are having with masters. I hope you can get things worked out so you can start enjoying your purchase.

If I was dealing with Costco's this nightmare would be over, The Master Spa dealer is not willing to take their tub and refund my $14K. I could not imagine shelling out that kind of $$ and having that list of problems, i feel your pain. I hope they make things right for you. You would expect for that kind of coin to get a top of the line tested spa with first rate service. best of luck to you.

Congrats on your purchase, nordic crown xl owner here. I am not sure about the 120v versus 240v, but it could be very possible. Mine is wired for 240v, jets are very powerful . You could try turning off the whirlpool jet(s) if you have one on your tub, this will power the smaller jets alot bettter. Basically, i either operate mine in whirlpool therapy mode or regular jet mode. You can also try turning off jets you are not using and also adding more air with the air valves. good luck and happy soaking in your new nordic! Also, you can try emailing nordic, very helpful, i was able to get flow diagrams and such for my tub that helped with figuring out all the jet/whirlpool/zone combinations. You can ask them about the 240/120.

Anyone have any recommendations for a decent spa vac. I had bought a cheap one with a turkey baster type bulb on the end and it is not working to well. The bulb keeps falling off when i squeeze it and it does not seem to pick up well.

Cool....John let me know if you can tell a difference this winter with your electric bill. Did you do alot of research to settle on the cover you bought? Did you have to supply them with dimensions, etc? or is it like ordering a part for a car? Had my first real good cold night soak last night, the crown is great.

Richard, What is the difference between Potassium Peroxymonosulfate (non chlorine shock) and MPS? are they similar, any advantages to using either one over the other?

Yes, sepco duct seal weatherproof compund along with a halex clamp in the box. The penetration through the house is only about 1" in diameter. Seems to do the job.

Here is a pic of mine attached to the house if it helps. There is an eave/gutter on second story above which keeps most of the direct weather out. The box is obviously outdoor rated. Mounting screws were sealed and i used electricians putty, The kind they put on meters outside to seal wire penetration through sill. Congrats on the new tub! House Mounted GFCI Disconnect

Kelly, On your initial fill of your new tub, did you fill it twice? Chlorinating then draining the initial fill right away then filling again? I was just wondering if you had some bad water in the line from factory testing, etc. that ate up all your FC and perhaps led to the rash.

This is an intersting thread, i can confirm in my case that Richards information is on the money. My Cyn levels have risen rapidly in the last couple weeks and is now over 100ppm. The tub is new (425 gal) so it has been getting alot of use. Have been using the dealer supplied chemicals, dichlor as well as a dichlor based spa shock packets (spa guard). . I have an ozonator and it runs 24/7, richard is this enough to control the "swimmers itch"? I try and keep my free chlorine at 1-3 ppm. It looks like i have added about 16oz of dichlor so far plus shocked it with the spa shock packets around four times. I have not noticed a significant water quality change, although the ph has been drifting lower and is now on the low side 7.3/2. Based on some of the posts i am going to try a combination of dichlor/ mps shock / and bleach the next go around. Richard, any startup advice for this volume would be appreciated and what to look for. My fill water is from a well and is around ph 7.8 and very alkaline 180 ppm. Also, how long can i wait to shock with dichlor initially? I might need to bring my ph and alk down and give the stain and scale a chance to work so i dont turn my water yellow and get ring stains around from the tub ( i have a little dissolved iron in the water). Thanks!