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Personally I'm buying a new one. Heaters are a wear item and that one looks pretty worn. How old is it?

I got it working. I needed to shut the hot tub off, switch 1 and 2 ON on Switchbank B, and then turn the hot tub back on from the breaker. I also needed to reset A12 during this process as well. Basically what is highlighted in the WARNING section in the pic I posted. Thanks anyways!

which is it? did you have the floater in or not? UV light and aeration will help reduce the bromine. Even if it's cloudy UV is still there. How much did you put in? 200 gal spa needs 1 oz by weight of sodium bromide to set up the bromide bank then shock the spa (bleach, dichlor, MPS, it really doesn't matter.) Your bromine will go very high. Uncover the spa and circulate until the bromine drops below 10 ppm before you use the spa. Don't put in the floater until the bromine has dropped. With a 200 gal spa the floater should be almost all the way closed and I would recommend a Pentair 335 floater since the are very adjustable (and come in tan or blue). Many floaters can't be closed enough and always put in too much bromine. https://www.amazon.com/Pentair-R171090-Chlorine-Floating-Dispenser/dp/B001DSECOS/ref=sr_1_2?crid=RH137MX3JCRA&keywords=pentair+335&qid=1705037213&s=lawn-garden&sprefix=pentair+335%2Clawngarden%2C132&sr=1-2 https://www.walmart.com/ip/Pentair-Swimming-Pool-335-Floating-Chlorine-Bromine-Chemical-Dispenser-White-And-Blue-R171074/49036105?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=1195&adid=22222222222000000000_3614603750_pla&wmlspartner=wmtlabs&wl0=e&wl1=s&wl2=c&wl3=10352200394&wl4=pla-1103028060075&wl5=&wl6=&wl7=&wl10=Walmart&wl11=Online&wl12=49036105_10000001242&wl14=pentair 335&veh=sem&msclkid=bf5fb004a09a14a922fdd5a46d61c40c&gclsrc=ds Mixed bag. It is an oxidizer so it will reactivate your brominde bank (produce bromine sanitizer) but it often will oxidize the bromide past that point into bromate, which destroys part of the bromide bank since bromate can't regenerate hypobromous acid (bromine sanitizer). If it were me, I would leave it off until the bromine level is in range and stable (with the floater).

Your floater was opened too much and was releasing too much bromine into the water. Leave the floater out and the tub uncovered and run the jets until the bromine comes down. If the tub gets sunlight leave it uncovered while the sun is shining since sunlight will destroy bromine.

Keep adding drops until the last drop added doesn't cause additional color change (in your case the20th drop) and don't count that drop (so you had 19 drops giving you 190 ppm CH. You don't need to worry about lowering it. Anything below about 400 ppm is workable. Same rule as above 370 ppm. You need to lower your TA! https://www.poolspaforum.com/forum/index.php?/topic/28846-lowering-total-alkalinity-howto/ In a word, no. What is the pH of the fill water? You can use it to shock the spa and activate your bromide bank. either one, they are the same thing with different packaging, probably for different markets. no, sodium hypochlorite is LIQUID chlorine beach or LIQUID pool chlorine. Sodium hypochlorite comes in different strengths. Laundry bleach is usually 5.25% or 6% but cheap dollar store bleach is often 3% and I have seen 8.25%. You want plain, unscented bleach with no thickeners or detergents added. Pool Chlorine is usually 10% or 12.5% https://www.poolspaforum.com/forum/index.php?/topic/53108-some-truths-on-bleach-dosing/ Powdered chlorine bleach is usually dichlor these days but it was also sold as calcium hypoclorite or cal hypo. These are also the forms of powdered chlorine bleach sold in pool stores, often as a shock. Bromine tabs are bromine tabs. They are all 1-Bromo-3-Chloro-5,5-Dimethylhydantoin or a similar chemical. Fun fact, they have more chlorine in them than bromine. The chlorine converts the bromide into hypobromous acid (bromine sanitizer) No, you want a floater that is designed for1" tabs and has good adjustability. I would recommend a Pentair floater. In my experience they work the best. They come in beige or blue. https://www.amazon.com/Pentair-R171090-Chlorine-Floating-Dispenser/dp/B001DSECOS/ref=sr_1_3?crid=27INLAN2IC04O&keywords=Pentair+R171090&qid=1704711264&s=lawn-garden&sprefix=pentair+r171090%2Clawngarden%2C124&sr=1-3 https://www.amazon.com/Pentair-R171074-Chlorine-Floating-Dispenser/dp/B002BBDC74/ref=sr_1_3?crid=113PN0KX6YOUL&keywords=R171074&qid=1704711334&s=lawn-garden&sprefix=r171074%2Clawngarden%2C195&sr=1-3

After reading it post any questions you might have. There are only 4 EPA approved residual sanitizers for hot tubs in the US (3 for swimming pools). They are chlorine, bromine, and biguinide/peroxide for pools and spas and the 4th for spas is silver/MPS/hot water (Nature 2 used with MPS.) The high temperature of a spa is necessity for this combo to have residual sanitizer action but it has slower kill times than the other sanitizers and is not effective against viruses so it is not one I normally recommend. However there are others on here that use it and recommend it ( @RDspaguy )whos opinions I respect. Anything else is considered an alternative sanitizer and this list includes Ozone, UV, ionizers (except for the Nature2 mentioned above), and " magic in a bottle" products that don't really tell you what is in them or how they actually work but promise that you only need to add their product to have clean, clear water (sanitized water is often never mentioned or the small print will say that it needs to be used with chlorine, bromine, and/or other EPA approved residual sanitizer. Some of these are not residual (UV, Ozone), some have very slow kill times and some plain just don't work. Clear water does not alway mean safe water. Be aware that every bather introduced feces, urine, and swear (chemically similar to urine) into the water no matter how clean they THINK they are, Pseudomonas infection (hot tub itch), Mycobacterium avium complex (hot tub lung), Legionnaires’ disease, and other waterborne illnesses such as Cryptosporidium, E. coli, and protozoal infections such as Giardia are very real but maintaining proper fast acting residual sanitizer in a tub or pool is an effective way to prevent them, as is showering off before going in the water and NEVER going in the water when you have diarrhea.