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Just received delivery of my Jacuzzi J315 and waiting for electrical hook up. I have been doing my reading and so far here are my plans once I fill it. 1. Purge with Ahh-some as directed, drain. 2. Purchase K2006 test kit for testing 3. Balance and sanitize water (Calcium>TA>Ph>chlorine) Two questions: 1. Am I missing anything I should be doing? 2. All I read says to remove the pillows for any purge but this model has the 'Hydrosooth Pillows' which do not look to be removable by myself. Is this an issue? Thanks

Update, April 29: Small leak noticed, water level 2" down (I don't check water level every day). So I removed the filter and added more "Fix a Leak". Well, the marine epoxy was a good try, spa is 36 years old.....

Where do you get 240V from? I see only 3 wires black white and green. This would indicate a 120V set up.. but needs a jumper wire from Neutral to the red wire location. See the diagram at the lower left of the schematic. For 240V it would need 4 wires red black white and green. At top right of the schematic you will see the jumper settings. For 120V you want LC mode. for 240V HC mode. Just below the jumper settings you will see where the pump wires should connect to the board for 120V and also 240V. Verify pump 1 is a 120V pump and not 240V. You can run the pack as a 240V system but for the heater but the pump remains 120v. See note at left of the schematic. There is not fuse in the pressure switch.

Also.. wanting to add an additional issue I’m noticing. when testing the spa pack wiring it does detect electricity; however, the breaker in the hot tub pops before I’m able to get a good read. Is this indicative of anything? I ordered a new pressure switch that arrives tomorrow but I’m hesitant to attempt to replace if the unit is fried.

Hi there, thanks for the response. photos attached The issue is that the hot tub won’t turn/do anything. Once plugged in the hot tub turned on and then immediately flashed (the screen) and went off. 220v were sent instead of 110v based on previous owner telling us that is how it was set up. Is there a fuse in the pressure switch? I removed the wiring and tried to test it with a meter, but I’m not 100% sure I did it right or if this model pressure switch can be tested.

Disconnect the pump from the board and test for power coming off the board in each speed if a 2 speed. If you get correct power to each speed the you likely have a pump issue. How little... If the board got wet then it might just need more time to dry are you sure it was pump 1 that was tripping the breaker and not the heater element kicking in at the same general time as the pump? Disconnect the heater from the board and try. Heater elements are the most common cause of a breaker tripping.

Post photos of the circuit board and the schematic on the inside cover. https://spacare.com/productimages/pdfmanuals/Gecko/SSPAServiceManual.pdf See pages 7 and 10 The only difference is the jumper wire shown on page 7 connecting L2 to N Page 10 shows the HC (High Current) and LC (Low Current) setting for the jumpers. for 240 V set to cover the pins on jumper 1. Look on the schematic on the inside cover to make sure the jumper settings match the manual. Not sure what your issue is based on your description... Is the GFCI tripping?

Hi there! we made a huge mistake with electrical. We just got a 2008 Dynasty Spa Stingray. The manual and paperwork that went with the spa indicated the electrical was 220v; however, we noticed that it was actually wired for 110v Is there a way we can test the circuit to make sure it needs to be replaced? The tub was free so I’d rather make certain it’s fried before replacing. So far we’ve tested all the fuses and they look OK. Thanks in advance!

Fixed... everything works now. The FL1 was a problem of my own making - when I originally opened the tub a couple of months ago i was so angry with the leaking flow switch that was "professionally" repaired that i tightened it by hand 1/4 turn and screwed the direction of the flapper thingy. I figured this out even before opening the hot tub, I remembered that episode when i went to pick up some plumber tape to redo the switch. The "professionals" had used just a couple of turns of thin tape and it was not working...(random thought - HF has MUCH better tape than HD, it is much thicker). So I removed the flow switch, re-taped it and put it back on, pointing in the correct direction. FL1 is gone, heater working, etc. I will let it run for 48 hrs and then do a deep clean with Ahhsome and replace the water. CanadianSpaTech - I cannot thank you enough for your help and advice... I really appreciate it!

Milton,ON When you install it just make sure to look down the tube and make sure the element is centered in the tube and not touching the side wall of the tube. Drop out the sensor on the short end to make it easier to remove the old and install the new. I stick my fingers in the long end and keep the element centered in the tube and then tighten the large nut on the short end first and then the nut on the long end. Also make sure the o-rings in the element don't fall off. Read below and you should not have any issues. Careful when tightening the 3/8" nuts to the copper tabs. Be sure to hold the nut underneath. You want it tight but if you go to far you might snap the element post. They twist easily so hold it in place with a wrench. I have a 3/8" wrench that I ground down the sides so it fits between the copper tab and the nut. Good Luck Recommend (Out of London,ON.. spend $100 get free shipping): https://www.poolandhottubdepot.com/balboa-4-0-kw-heater-element/

Awesome. I will order a replacement heater, watch a video on how to replace it, and let you know. Thank you very much. It's a shame we don't live near Toronto; then we could hire you. Thanks again, -Darren

I have an older model Four Winds spa, newer Balboa heater and controller. Recently I started getting random errors like over temp or DRY. So I assumed the probes were bad. I replaced those and after I powered back up, it kicked the breaker. I assumed I got it a little wet so I blew it off and reset. It powered up but was going crazy clicking and cycling through the display. I assumed I killed a fuse. So today I replaced all those. I restarted and it powered up ok but when pump 1 went to kick on, the breaker tripped. Anything I should check?

An element that is covered in scale will also cause the spa to heat very very slowly and will have trouble getting the water up to temp

Again if you have 240V to the element then it should heat. Test the 2 heater element legs for continuity and a bad element.

Instead of guesses supply us with some more information and we can most likely answer exactly what is going on. For starters what is your sanitizer (chlorine, bromine, N2/MPS, biguinide/peroxide, or something else)? How about posting a full set of test results and how they were obtained (dealer testing, strips, drop based test kit, meter, etc.) Also, is the tub covered or uncovered most of the time? Pollen count in your area ( based on your IP address ) is extremely high right now. (BTW, I'm originally from Millburn) Finally, is the "sludge" slimy, particulate, or gelatinous? Without more information we really can't tell much about the condition of your water.

If by ohm test you mean did I check for conductivity between the l eads and the metal tube like it shows in the pdf from balboawatergroup, then yes, I tested that. -Darren

When FLC is showing remove 1 wire going to the pressure switch does flc go to flo? Gecko Tech support is often very helpful: 1 800 784 3256

I have the same issue with my chemconnect holder breaking off and the base is stuck. I have the replacement part but now i'm trying to figure out how to get the old broken piece out.

We’ve had this hot tub for two years, never have I seen the filters look like this. Any guesses as to why?

Thank you for the great trouble shooting guidance. I will do that over the weekend. The circ pump seems to be working and I suspect it is the flow switch but will see how it turns out... Thanks!

Ensure the circ or heating/filtering related pump is running and has good flow. Check the flow switch housing and ensure that the toggle is pushed up against the post and making contact. Sometimes holding a flashlight behind the housing will make it easier to see. If it is making contact with the post but you have the flo error still then try and jumper the 2 flow switch wires together and bypass the switch. I recommend disconnecting the heater to do this test so if there is a flow related issue the heater does not engage and quickly overheat/melt down. The flow switch protects the heater from firing when there is not enough flow. If you jump the wires and the flo goes away replace flow switch.

Hi, Hoping someone can help. I have been getting a persistent FLC error on a 2003 Arctic Spa Timberwolf hot tub. I have replaced the pressure switch twice and still get the same error after a couple of days. Pump 1 is a twin-speed 2hp unit, the output feeding into an Arctic Spas 3.6kW elbow heater with Hydroquip Tecmark 3902 pressure switch. Speed 1 is used for circulation when heating is required. The pressure switch is open circuit with no pressure and closed circuit with pressure applied, bench tested with pneumatic pump and multimeter. I cannot find the exact set of instruction for my Gecko Mspa Metapack series control box, but the Mspa MP Metapack technical manual mentions that the switch should be open circuit with the pump stopped and closed circuit with the pump running. This has been tested in-situ and appears to work correctly. When I switch the hot tub on it runs perfectly for a couple of days, before the FLC error appears. Bizarrely it then runs pump 1 at low speed, thereby closing the pressure switch and effectively 'latching' the error. Pump 1 continues to run at low speed, without heating, until I switch the hot tub off to reset it. The cover is very efficient and we don't lose a lot of heat, this error is forcing pump 1 to run when it normally wouldn't be required, consuming lots of energy. The other thing I have noticed is that when pump 1 stops, the pressure switch does not change from closed circuit to open circuit immediately, it takes a second or two. Could it be that the control board is expecting the switch to change state at the same instant as the pump running condition? Or could it just be adjustment? I have tried adjusting the switch quite a few times and have recently set the switch to be just about open circuit when the pump is not running. Hope someone can help. Tony

Partial progress... replaced the terminal block, snubber and the burned wires today and fired it up. The display turned on, both pumps work... Thank you CanadianSpaTech for your help to get me running again! Now, the partial part - I have a FL1 error on the display and the heater does not turn on. All I had time to do was clean the filter, which did not help... will do some more trouble shooting and will try to purge air over the weekend. I only know FL1 is switch stuck open or dirty filter/air pocket so need to research a little more.

ODD... Heat light on and you get 240V to the copper tabs then it should be heating or the GFCI should be tripping. Try Test button on the GFCI and make sure it is working correctly.. Did you ohm test the element?

Most common trip cause is the heater element. Disconnect the heater from the board and see if it holds. If it still trips disconnect each component one at a time until it holds (pumps, Ozone). Post pics of the circuit board and the schematic on the inside cover so we can see what you have and how it is wired