aGrandma Posted June 13, 2012 Report Posted June 13, 2012 Current chemical readings are: FAC 10. Salt 3030 (ok), CH 220, CYA 60, TA 60, pH 7.5, phosphates 250. I know I need to add baking soda first. Pool water is clear but there is green tint on plaster. About 6 weeks ago I bought PhosFREE+ from Leslies and used as directed, and my phosphates never went below 100. My bottle is gone now. I went there today and they told me to buy another bottle of that plus a bottle of Leslies algae control. I told them I am skeptical of buying their PhosFREE when a whole bottle didn't help! They offered to sell it to me for half price, and I didn't buy any. I could super chlorinate the pool but I have kids swimming and don't want to do that. What do you experts think? Should I add the recommended baking soda, then later add the algae control to a bucket of water and pour around the sides of the pool, run the filter as usual, and brush the sides daily? Then wait and see? Or does anyone have any other advice? Quote
waterbear Posted June 13, 2012 Report Posted June 13, 2012 You don't need to worry about phosphates at all. It is a scam the way that phosphate removers are sold. If you maintain your FC like you are supposed to you will not get algae. If you want extra insurance you can either add polyquat 60 algaecide once a month or add borate to 50 ppm once a year but neither is necesary if you monitor your pool and keep the chlorine in line. If you have algae then you need to shock. Period. What kind of swcg do you have? 60 is a bit low for CYA. Your TA is actually fine right now but if it gets lower you want ot raise it to 70 ppm (and not higher) becuse you will have a slower pH rise in a salt pool with a lower TA. ar€e you depending on pool store testing? It is often suspect. I would recommend getting a Taylor K-2006 test kit and testing the pool yourself. It really is pretty easy to do. Quote
aGrandma Posted June 13, 2012 Author Report Posted June 13, 2012 First I apologize for posting this pool chemistry question on the wrong board. The other board did not show up on my ipad but I see it now on my desktop! Thank you for your reply! I did buy a Taylor K-2006 test kit and I do test my own water about once a week. My chlorine has never dipped much this whole season. The saltwater chlorine generator I have is Aqua Rite. For now would you recommend I shock the pool (and keep sweeping the walls?) and not use the algae control I bought? Quote
waterbear Posted June 13, 2012 Report Posted June 13, 2012 First I apologize for posting this pool chemistry question on the wrong board. The other board did not show up on my ipad but I see it now on my desktop! Thank you for your reply! I did buy a Taylor K-2006 test kit and I do test my own water about once a week. My chlorine has never dipped much this whole season. The saltwater chlorine generator I have is Aqua Rite. For now would you recommend I shock the pool (and keep sweeping the walls?) and not use the algae control I bought? Get your CYA up to 80 ppm and adjust your cell output to maintain a FC of 4-5 ppm for normal use. Right now I would shock to about 25 ppm with either bleach or liquid chlorine and brush, brush, brush. I think you will find the algae is gone in about a day. Once the FC drops below 20 ppm 9 with CYA of 60 popm) the kids can swim (but their bathing suits might bleach a bit Exactly what are the ingredient(s) in the algae control product you bought? If it is anything other than Polyquat 60 (Poly (oxyethylene (dimethyliminio) ethylene (dimethyliminio) ethylene dichloride) 60%) then you do not want to use it and should return it. Quote
waterbear Posted June 13, 2012 Report Posted June 13, 2012 I really like the Orenda products. They are nothing special and I have had many conversations with *** Kersey of Orenda Technolgies in the past. Their current line are just a lanthanum based phosphate remover, a phosphate remover and enzyme combo and an metal sequestrant that they do not disclose the ingredients for but based on the LD50 on the MSDS is most likly EDTA (which breaks down very quickly in the presence of chlorine so it is not the best choice for swimming pools, IMHO). They is really no different from similar products from Natural Chemsitry, SeaKlear, and a host of other companies. Quote
aGrandma Posted June 13, 2012 Author Report Posted June 13, 2012 The Leslie's brand Algae Control is Poly(oxyethylene(dimethyliminio)ethylene (dimethyliminio)ethylene dichloride 60% So it's exactly what you recommend. Well that makes me feel a little better about Leslies and the kids working there. With that information, do you think I still should shock and brush (as in your previous post), or shock and brush AND use the Algae Control, or try the Algae Control, brush and not shock? OR - shock using the leslie's shock for salt pools, not liquid chlorine? Should I return the algae control to the store?? Is it just a preventative? Useful to keep algae from returning after you don't have algae? Quote
waterbear Posted June 13, 2012 Report Posted June 13, 2012 Shock and brush and then add the polyquat 24 hours later. Polyqaut temporarily lowers FC and shock levels of chlorine destory polyquat, Quote
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