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Posted

Guys-

This will be my first time closing a pool and I'd appreciate any feedback on my plan below. A few things to be aware of for my pool. Each line is independently plumbed with ball valves and I plan to insert stand pipes in each return and use Ultra Gizzmos for each skimmer. I'm most concerned about the line blowing. I watched a pool company do it last year and they had a professional Cyclone blower. I'm assuming I can use my 6 HP/30 gallon Craftsman air compressor to blow the lines. Any suggestions appreciated.

1. Remove ladders, hand rails and skimmer baskets.

2. Wrap Ultra Gizzmos with Teflon tape and insert into skimmers. Leave caps off.

3. Remove returns and eyes.

4. Wrap stand pipes with teflon and insert into each return.

5. Blow out lines with compressor

0. Turn on compressor and set PSI to 25 and let it fill up(30 Gallon).

A. Turn off all ball valves except one return.

B. Turn Sand filter multi-port valve to recirculate.

C. Remove one drain plug on pump and let it drain.

D.Insert compressor fitting into drain on pump.

E. Once PSI has been reached on compressor and tank is full, connect hose to fitting on filter and turn it on to blow out first line.

F. After first line(return) is complete, turn ball valve off, add one gallon anti-freeze and cap it.

G. Open next valve for next line and repeatstep F for each line.

H. Once all skimmers and returns are completed and off do main drain.

I. Open main drain, turn on compressor, once you see bubbles, turn off main drain valve to air lock it.

J. Open heat pump ball valves and enable

compressor to blow water out of heat pump.

K. Add some antifreeze to pump.

7. As extra safety for skimmers, in addition to Ultra Gizzmo insert compression plate covers and suck water out of each skimmer with shop-vac. Put duct tape over hole on skimmer.

8. Remove other drain plug on pump and the

filter drain plug.

8. Open all ball valves except main drain.

9. Cover the pool.

Posted

What part of the world is pool located in? How thick do you anticipate the ice to get??? I've heard of adding 2 liter bottles to your pool, or "noodles" like your kids play with to prevent the ice from expanding and destroying the pool, instead it crushes the noodles. I too am thinking of closing my pool, but haven't really got the first idea on dos and don'ts. I'll be watching for the post

Posted

I'm in dallas and can't give you solid advice. In my area... We typically lower the water level below the skimmers. blow out the lines, drain the heater, and pump and filter. add 2 liter bottles and a cover and call it good. By draining the water below the skimmer level, our main drain line level (even with the pool level) is below our freeze line, don't laugh, 6 inches, the savvy ones often times add antifreeze to the lines, but again this year will be my first time to "close" my pool. As a technician... I don't intend to close any of my customers pools unless requested.

Posted

I appreciate your feedback Afiremanfirst. I was hoping to get some good advice on this forum for closing. I'm a bit nervous because we get lots of snow/ice/freeze here in Ohio. I"m considering buying a Cyclone Vac Blower to blow the lines because I want to ensure I don't screw up. Sounds like you don't have to worry to much in TX. Again, thanks for your responses and hopefully someone will chime in to help us.

Posted

Here in Ontario were everything freezes & temps of -40 we drain the pools 6"-8" below the skimmer to offset the water displacement from rain and snow melt on the winter cover. I would never trust a compressor to blow out pool lines. We use a compressor for water feature & slide lines as they are of small diameter. You are dealing with 1 1/2"-2" lines you need volume to remove all of the water & compressed air just doesnt have that volume. We use 5hp shopvac blowers & blow out all components individually(lines/heater/filter pump)all separately. To properly drain your sand filter you need to attach the blower to the line from your pump & have your dial set to rinse. This way the air is forcing the water out of the filter the drain cap will not drain hardly anything. For reference look at the size of a large shop vac hose & then look at your air hose which do you think is better suited for pool piping.

Posted

I think I'll spend the money to get the Cyclone blower. I'm hoping I get a couple friends to chip in so we can share it. I don't think it's worth the risk of using the compressor or a Shop VAC.

Posted

Another question. When I"m blowing the returns, skimmers and main do I just leave the multi-port on re-circulate? I assume I just put multi-port in rinse to clear out the sand filter. I could do this last after I do each line. As stated above, I have ball valves on each line.

Thanks

Posted

Another question. When I"m blowing the returns, skimmers and main do I just leave the multi-port on re-circulate? I assume I just put multi-port in rinse to clear out the sand filter. I could do this last after I do each line. As stated above, I have ball valves on each line.

Thanks

I vacuum to waste, backwash and rinse the filter and drain to waste. I don't think it matters much whether you set the multiport to filter or recirculate when blowing the lines (I suppose recirculate is fine since the filter will drain when you remove the drain plug). There is considerable difference of opinion about whether to use a shop vac or compressor to clear the lines. I personally use a compressor while operating the ball valves to maximize pressure and have had no problems after 3 closings. I add marine/RV antifreeze (pink) to the skimmer and all returns before installing gizmo and caps, respectively, and you should do the same.

One detail - once I'm done vacuuming the pool, I close the skimmer valve and drain to waste from the mains. Once I've reached my closing level (6" below the returns) I stop the pump and confirm that water is standing in the skimmer well. I then close the mains, open the skimmer and run the pump for a few seconds until it loses prime and starts sucking air, then immediately close the skimmer valve. This obviates the need to blow the skimmer line. I then add antifreeze to the skimmer line and install the gizmo. You're right to use teflon tape on all gizmos and caps - at least 3 wraps. Some people add antifreeze to their filter and some people remove their SWG if they have one. I've never found either necessary but overkill never hurts so long as you're willing to spend the time and effort.

Posted

Appreciate the feedback guys. My new plan is to use a Cyclone Blower Vac for blowing the lines. Below is my plan. My main questions are around position for multi-port valve and if I should leave all ball valves open except main once all lines are blown. When the pool company closed it last year they opened all ball valves but main and didn't understand why you would not leave closed. I'd appreciate someone that knows what there doing review my plan and let me know if you see anything wrong with it. I can handle all the closing but I'm a bit nervous about the line blowing portion being my first time. Thanks

Blow out lines with Cyclone Liner Vac

A. Remove drain plugs from pump and filter. Disconnect union on pump on suction side and place blower hose in it.

C. Turn off all ball valves except one return.

D. Turn Sand filter multi-port valve to recirculate.

E. After first line(return) is complete, turn ball valve off, add one gallon anti-freeze and cap it.

F. Open next valve for next line and repeat step F for each line and do all returns and skimmers.

G. Once all skimmers and returns are completed do main drain.

H. Open main drain, turn on vac, once you see bubbles, turn off main drain valve to air lock it.

I. Turn multi-port valve to backwash.

J. Open heat pump ball valves and enable compressor to blow water out of heat pump and filter.

K. Add some antifreeze to pump and set multi-port in winterize position.

L. Open all ball valves except main drain.

Posted

Keep in minda I will have stand pipes in each return and Gizzmo's in each skimmer with water level not dropped. I'm also considering buying a skimmer plate cover for each skimmer for double protection for skimmer. I'm an over-kill guy.

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Appreciate the feedback guys. My new plan is to use a Cyclone Blower Vac for blowing the lines. Below is my plan. My main questions are around position for multi-port valve and if I should leave all ball valves open except main once all lines are blown. When the pool company closed it last year they opened all ball valves but main and didn't understand why you would not leave closed. I'd appreciate someone that knows what there doing review my plan and let me know if you see anything wrong with it. I can handle all the closing but I'm a bit nervous about the line blowing portion being my first time. Thanks

Blow out lines with Cyclone Liner Vac

A. Remove drain plugs from pump and filter. Disconnect union on pump on suction side and place blower hose in it.

C. Turn off all ball valves except one return.

D. Turn Sand filter multi-port valve to recirculate.

E. After first line(return) is complete, turn ball valve off, add one gallon anti-freeze and cap it.

F. Open next valve for next line and repeat step F for each line and do all returns and skimmers.

G. Once all skimmers and returns are completed do main drain.

H. Open main drain, turn on vac, once you see bubbles, turn off main drain valve to air lock it.

I. Turn multi-port valve to backwash.

J. Open heat pump ball valves and enable compressor to blow water out of heat pump and filter.

K. Add some antifreeze to pump and set multi-port in winterize position.

L. Open all ball valves except main drain.

Posted

I'm closing the pool myself for the first time. Followed all the instructions above but when I blew out the main drain I got a significant amount of bubbling after the valve was shut. Also the caps on the Gizmos popped. Any ideas what I am doing wrong?

TIA

Posted

I'm closing the pool myself for the first time. Followed all the instructions above but when I blew out the main drain I got a significant amount of bubbling after the valve was shut. Also the caps on the Gizmos popped. Any ideas what I am doing wrong?

TIA

Did I understand you to say that you blew out the main drain? If that is what you said, you don't blow that out. That is below the freeze point. Also, the gizmo doesn't get screwed in until after you blow out the lines. Then you screw the gizmo into the skimmer, put some anti-freeze in the hole and then cap it.

highlt, I might have missed it, but what kind of filter do you have? If it is a de filter, then the multi-port valve gets disconnected before you blow out the lines.

I always use a shopvac to blow out the lines. Been closing my pool for 10 years.

Posted

highlt, I just went back and re-read your post, you have a sand filter, I haven't delt with one of those in over 10 years, so I dont remember the proceedure with that. And mine was an on ground pool.

Posted

highlt, I just went back and re-read your post, you have a sand filter, I haven't delt with one of those in over 10 years, so I dont remember the proceedure with that. And mine was an on ground pool.

sand filter procedure (that I've used for 10 years)

lower water below returns, make sure you open skimmer valves for a quick second while draining to make sure they are drained, just for a second until they drain you don't want to lose prime assuming you are draining the pool out your backwash line via the main drain

I have pre-made "standpipes" essentially a 3' long piece of rigid pipe with either a 1.5" or 2" male adapter glued to it depending on what size your skimmer holes are...vinyl pools are typically 1.5" and concrete pools are typically 2" around these parts anyways, so thread the standpipe into the skimmer closest to the equipment and set my blower (4hp cyclone i believe) that has a female adapter attached onto the standpipe

make sure your backwash line is open (if you have a valve on it), or the hose is rolled out, and position your port valve on "rinse"

close all valves except the valve for the skimmer you are blowing into

turn on blower, what you are doing here is blowing back through the filter and out the backwash line

let blower run for a few minutes until there is no more water coming from the backwash line

turn port valve to the "close" position then immediately open your main drain valve (remember you can keep the blower running throughout the whole process) wait for the main drain to bubble then close the valve airlocking the line

once main drain is closed and airlocked immediately open your other skimmer valve (the one your not blowing through obviously) which can have another standpipe threaded into it with a 90 on it pointing into the pool, let that blow until line is completely clear, pull blower off standpipe and dump in 1/2 gal. of freeze in, then re-attach blower, this is all you need because you are not trying to fill the line, all the freeze is doing is acting like a "tracer" meaning once you see pink come out you know the line is clear....continue this process for other skimmers if you pool has more than two.

once you are done with the skimmers, turn port valve to "re-circulate" and this will blow all your returns at once assuming they are tied together, if each return/slide line/waterfall line, etc. has its own valve then you can blow them individually, again you can pour antifreeze down the standpipe with the blower on it to "trace" through and make sure all lines are cleared.

once you are done pull both standpipes and put in your gizmos, plug returns, pull plugs out of your pump, filter, polaris pump, chlorinator, pull pressure gauge, and position your port vall to the "winterize" position if it has it

so for ~$30-$40 in parts to make 2 standpipes (that you can use every year) and the cost of a blower you now have a good way to close your pool down...I figure I have closed almost 2,000 pools using this method over the years and I have only froze 1 line *knock on wood* and that was on an in-floor cleaning system that was plumbed by someone who was obviously confused in my opinion :P

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